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Grand Opening Give Drawing!

December 13, 2019|Special Offers

I'll be giving away a couple of items for the Grand Opening of Trestle Pine Knives.  It's also Christmas so it's a win win no matter how you look at it!  All you have to do is subscribe to the Trestle Pine Blog or create an account.  Either of these actions will increase your eligibility for future drawings or specials.

For the Grand Opening by opening an account you become eligible to win either a Marble's Mini-Ax OR an Helle Algonquin neck knife.  The drawing will be held on New Years Eve so you have some time to get your name in.  Grand Opening Give Away Drawing!

Tags: &, (and, Adzes, Axes, Cleavers, Kukris, Machetes, Saws, Tomahawks, Ulus)

Views: 3548

Replies to This Discussion

Axe, Tomahawk and Machete sharpening

Posted by wildjim on December 5, 2009 at 2:05

Who created the term "Utility Edge" Why not "Lazy Edge" "Ignorant Edge" or "Fools Edge"

I say its just as easy to create a fine polished razor shaving sharp edge.

I use a Paper Wheel mounted on a buffer/grinder motor to polish the edge or 1X30 Belt Sander then a ceramic rod to keep it razor sharp. Any of my axes, tomahawks or machetes will easily shave hair. On weekend camping trips the edge holds while chopping all the fire wood I need and is still razor sharp when I return home.

Reply by Al Cave on January 15, 2010 at 20:14

I used a "utility" edge on a syth blade when cutting weeds along creeks. A course stone on a handle used every 1/2 -1 hour and back at it. The ragged edge left by the course stone works on the fiberous stems.

My little Nessmuk axe (2009_07)

 

Posted by Andy Voelkle "AxeMan" on August 6, 2009 at 21:03

I bought a little double bit advertised as a "throwing axe". What a bogus ad. The little axe was too thick to use as a micro maul, and the head came off a third of the way through the first test 2x4. Typical of Chinese axes and hatchets. Some of the Chinese manufacturers make very fine quality knives. I have several I like.
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However, the Chinese axe and hatchet industry is not quality. Their steel isn't bad, although the shiny ones are made from plate steel, the eye drilled, and the handle attached very poorly. In fact, the eye is just straight drilled, and all eyes should be slightly hour-glass shaped. The handle half of the eye should taper in toward the center, then flare out to the bitter end even larger, maybe 4-6mm greater diameter.
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I re-ground the head extensively. One of the blunt little blades was cleaned up but hardly reshaped, and edged some until it would slice an index card. This end will chop a 2-5 inch diameter limb off a fallen tree, or split the rotted wood off a pitch pine core. Thick so it won't break when delivering ill-aimed or glancing blows. Used a piece of yellow poplar for the wedge. extremely dense — had it in the garage for 30 years — nice & dry.
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After all, an axe blade is just a heavy knife on a longer handle.
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In the Nessmuk style, the second blade was thinned considerably. The flares were ground off to reduce the blade width to 60% of the chopping blade. This is a refinement Nessmuk did not discover. It's my idea. This blade is for splitting the kindling.
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A saw such as a bow saw, sven saw, montana saw or somesuch makes a lot more sense than an axe for actually cutting some logs the axe can split up.
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You can see I got the steel too thin in one of the four places it borders the eye. My error, caused by my having one eye and not a very good one, and working with a 6 inch bench grinder. The next little Nessmuk axe I make will be better. Here's some pix — they are in the USA standard 1.33:1 aspect ratio, and there is a 200 pixel calibration dot on the first image:
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...Thanks for looking at my little Nessmuk.

Reply by Trent Rock on August 6, 2009 at 22:35

I have an old Norlund Voyager clamshell pack somewhere
I'll try and post a pic
Is it me or do the pics look "stubby"
Not just your pics
Mine too

The Nessmuk looks cool
I want to get a small double bit hatchet someday.............

Reply by Andy Voelkle "AxeMan" on August 7, 2009 at 14:13

They look good on my 1024x768 screen under Firefox. I added a calibration dot to the first image. An exact 200 pixel circle, and a border so you can verify the 1.33:1 ratio. Thanks for looking carefully. I recommend the little double bit Nessmuk, and if you want to try my radially unequal blade length, please do. This refinement concentrates much more cutting power on the thin sharp blade.

Spetsnaz shovel vs. 7 inch survival knife

Posted by Manville D. Smith X on September 24, 2009 at 17:07

Im taking the shovel versatility lightweight and fits on a pack nicely.

Attachments:

Reply by Andy Voelkle "AxeMan" on September 25, 2009 at 5:47

The shovel will dig better except in some soil, a misnomer, that was ascualluy mostly rocks. Even then the shovel might win. Depends on a #1 hole or a foxhole.

SummaStuff

Posted by Andy Voelkle "AxeMan" on July 13, 2009

I don't have photos of most of my axes and hatchets, but here are a few. In the Gransfors page, I only have three of them. A warning to all you axe collectors out there — you may have to explain to someone like your husband, wife or best friend why you collect axes. Best to tell them it's a big secret, and offer to take them out to dinner. NEVER actually explain.


Here is the progress on my "Nessmuk_2" project, which is re-grinding a WW2 DB axe down in size. I think it is a Norlund axe, but not sure. It is of very good steel. Today I used a home grade 6" bench grinder to make 400 passes on one edge, taking away about 1/4" of steel. The photo has about 1/8" of parallax, so that's why the caliper appears off a little. I'm taking 1" off each blade to start.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EE91lXgqhQ

Recomendations page

Posted by Nick Arsenault on June 27, 2009 at 20:37

i need some Recomendations on what to get...

im looking for some thing throwable... id like it small... do they make them with metal handels??? i really dont want to throw it wrong and have the handel snap off

Reply by Andy Voelkle "AxeMan" on June 28, 2009 at 3:18

Throwing axes use up a lot of handles. Check out the little $20 axe I just ordered — pretty cheap way to find out. The competition lumberjack throwing axe is larger and much more expensive ($500-2500). In general, throwing is a very specific distance, forward and rotational energy skill. You will break the handle occasionally.
Reply by Nick Arsenault on June 28, 2009 at 17:18
onn the main page right?

Reply by Nick Arsenault on June 28, 2009 at 17:22

Comment by Steve Hanner on December 17, 2013 at 19:03

Made in the same factory as the legendary Condor machetes, the Mykel Hawke Hawkchete uses the trademarked Santoprene handle. Other features include a carbon steel blade, black epoxy coating, molded guard and pommel, and a nylon belt sheath w/ plastic inserts.

See more at http://www.mykelhawkeknives.com/hawkchete.

Comment by Steve Hanner on December 17, 2013 at 19:02



http://www.tactical-life.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/Mykel-Hawke-Hawkchete.jpg

Comment by Steve Hanner on November 5, 2013 at 12:43



Tomahawk throwing is popular with reenactors who celebrate the 'mountain men' of the 19th century fur trade

Comment by Steve Hanner on November 5, 2013 at 12:42

Breaking Axe news California:

A pair of burglars in Southern California got more than they bargained for when they broke into the home of a champion tomahawk thrower this weekend.

The woman armed herself with one of her special throwing axes and chased off the intruders. 

She said she could have killed them had she loosed her deadly weapons, but she could not bring herself to injure the fleeing burglars. 

Robin Irvine said she was asleep at her trailer in Hemet, California, Saturday when one of the men tried to take a watch off her wrist.

Robin Irvine, whose home was burglarized, said she could have hit one of the burglars in the spine if she had thrown her ax - but she chose not to

Robin Irvine, whose home was burglarized, said she could have hit one of the burglars in the spine if she had thrown her ax - but she chose not to

Comment by David Phipps on October 31, 2013 at 17:09

Thanks everyone for the welcome, I have been a casual collector for some time and have a small amount of many different things. When I get my pics sized correctly I will post. As for what I consider my large edged items I currently have A MkIII Kukri with broad arrow unfortunately without sheath, a machete from el Salvador Imacasa, two small cleavers the oldest being made by Ausonia, two tomahawks 1 traditional thrower and 1 Estwing tactical and a cold steel kukri, not great but cheap. I am a thrift store, pawn shop and yard sale hunter and with the exception of the estwing and cold steel, every item was obtained from those places.

Comment by Andy Voelkle "AxeMan" on August 14, 2012 at 15:57

I'm enjoying reading all this info on hawks. There are a couple of points I'd like to learn more about from both historical and military perspectives.

1) The shape of the blade seems to be related to the specific type of battle tactic. The "wide at the blade" shape of most hawks mean that they are either swiped across the target, or they embed firmly.

2)I've read that native American battle tactics were largely the sudden ambush style. That seems the only one that works with hand weapons. The bow and arrow was their only "stand-off" weapon, and it was designed more for hunting meat than battle.

How do these considerations relate, if at all?

Comment by Jeremi Lett on August 13, 2012 at 11:33

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