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Thanks Dale,
I will be away for a couple of weeks, I am training out of state with the company I work for.
D ale said:
I decided to epoxy the scales on, man this is messy work. Im trying something different, I glass bead blasted the liners thinking this might hold the epoxy better, in the past on metal I would just rough up the surface a bit with mu dremel, this was a lot easier, I hope it works. I glued them on yesterday morning so they should be ready to profile today. I would like to finish this today before I go away on business tomorrow.
Your's looks really sweet, Dan. That horn turned out GREAT !!!
.................. and the filework .. now I'm drooling !!!
Also .. hope that training business is going along fine !!!
While I'm no where near as far along as you .. I did make a rather nice discovery. The pivot hole in the blade measured (as best I could) 0.122". The 1/8 inch threaded pivots from Knifekits.com measure 0.124". A drill press and some sandpaper got me a nice slip fit.
Note: The caliber of my shop equip isn't quite equal to yours. Soooo, I was initially put off from the prospect of threaded fasteners. I wanted to avoid drilling the hardened blade .. & also didn't want to risk any mis-alignment by drilling the bolsters, liners, & blade. Removing 0.002" from the pin dia is both do-able for me & maintains the factory alignment of the locking mechanism .. :)
I did run into a small issue. Once the threaded pivot would slip through the blade .. it would NOT through the liners & bolsters. There appeared to be a SLIGHT mis-alignment between the bolster & liner, i.e. there was a lip @ the transition. I used an implemented reamer to correct this.
@ Dan ...
Where I currently have the pins (supplied w/ the kit) helping hold everything together .. I hope to implement 4-40 flat head screws as hidden fasteners by countersinking one liner and tapping the other.
Then, holding the scales on w/ four 2-56 screws. Two @ the fnt using the existing holes .. the cntr one using the existing hole where lock retaining spring is riveted in place .. and then, drill a new hole in the liner for the rear one .. just in front of the current existing hole.
That way I minimize drilling new holes. I will .. except for the rear two holes for the scales .. be tapping or countersinking existing holes. :)
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