The online community of knife collectors, A Knife Family Forged in Steel
This group is hosted by D ale, for knife enthusiasts who are interested in repairing, modifiying, restoring or improving knives, including fixed blades, folders and automatics of all types.
Members: 197
Latest Activity: Mar 13
Started by Andy Larrison Mar 13. 0 Replies 0 Likes
Had to try one out, so I sacrificed a jigged black synthetic handled razor and added some mammoth bark ivory that had some great character. First razor I've ever done, very easy pattern to work with.…Continue
Started by Andy Larrison Mar 13. 0 Replies 0 Likes
Had a customer reach out wanting me to barehead and add stag to this great Old Timer. Original handles and box can be seen in the pictures.…Continue
Started by Andy Larrison. Last reply by J.J. Smith III Feb 25. 5 Replies 0 Likes
Recently removed the original black covers and replaced them with European red stag on this 1972 Case Sodbuster. Original covers can be seen lying to the left of the knife.…Continue
Started by Andy Larrison. Last reply by Andy Larrison Feb 13. 4 Replies 2 Likes
I recently completed this rehandle project for a client. A Buck 547 skinner, the client is a huge fan of sambar stag, but it is getting hard to find stag the size of which we needed for this project. I should also add that he likes for his knives…Continue
Started by Andy Larrison Jan 30. 0 Replies 0 Likes
I recently was commissioned to replace the shrinking covers and add some filework on this Case Classic Clasp. Here are some before, during and after pictures of this project. I used inlace acrylester material for the new covers.…Continue
Started by Andy Larrison. Last reply by Andy Larrison Jul 31, 2023. 1 Reply 0 Likes
Removed the yellow synthetic scales from this Case trapper yesterday and fit it with green streaked smooth buffalo horn, nickle silver cigar band and a strip of black and gold webbed onyx. Also fileworked the blades and back springs. Oh yeah, i…Continue
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Just some info good to know
JJ
Thats a pretty sweet tool
Hi D ale and anyone else interested.
I finished the H & B knife with loose MOP scale. Using your suggestion of 5-minute epoxy, the scale is now firmly attached and the knife cleaned up. Pictures attached. Thanks for the advise and support. I now have a pretty, solid and functional addition to the accumulation of cutting instruments.
Always good to have folks to ask questions when there is a new challenge afoot.
Bruce,
I sent you an email.
D ale
Specifications
DRSPB8 = .5 long x .125 diameter
(includes 2/2-56 BHT 1/4 screws)
Thread = 2-56
Material = 303 Stainless
(1 Package = 1 Pivot + 2 Screws)
Note: All KnifeKits.com pivots are heat treated for low wear.
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Their LINK came back up.
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However, should you experience any difficulties ... I've still got one in the wings for you.
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While on that subject .. you might consider "washers" through the pins & between the blade & liners. Although, the above linked washers are 0.015" thick ea. This set is slightly thinner @ 0.012" thick ea.
... ... ... BUT ... ... ...
imo .. I'd skip the washers because the threaded fasteners of the hardened pins allow for an infinite adjustment for your desired fit. Further, once threadlocked into place .. they stay there. Well, till you might desire removal for some purpose or an adjustment @ a later date anyway.
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Again, if you experience any difficulties through Knifekits .. I've a hardened SS pivot pin in the wings for you.
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Note: I've sourced a lot of parts through knifekits & never experienced a problem !
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Enjoy,
D ale
OK, that computes. I would be tickled if you would lend me a fastener. I can see this also making it easier to leave a slight clearance for smooth blade movement. You must, however, allow me to replace it when the web site comes back up. How would you prefer I send you my home address? My email is brucensherry@gmail.com. Thanks
Bruce
* 0.500" in overall length
Bruce,
Most makers or master cutlers in the repair business use either Brass or NS for handle pins .. as shown here for securing handles, bolsters, and guards. Often, for pivot pins too. I've also seen others use std nails of the appropriate size.
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However ..I apologize.. I'd forgotten about these.
They are machined hardened stainless steel pivot pins. I use them mostly in my leverlocks. The are 0.125" in OD & 0.050" in length. The are machined threaded over the entirety of the internal length & come with the required threaded fasteners. These may be ideal for your intended purpose.
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Note, if you prefer that the heads of the threaded fastener are flush w/ the bolsters .. you will need to drill them to just the required dia of the heads & only to a depth that would make them flush. I have used them both exposed (they have a pretty low profile as is) ..or.. have recessed the heads just to the point of being flush.
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You may need to sand their OAL of the pins to match what is your required purpose. I've also had to sand/file the overall length of the threaded fasteners for best fit. Once I'm happy w/ the fit .. I add threadlocker to insure they do not creep out w/ time.
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I purchased them from knifekits ..however.. their link is currently down -{maintenance or some such}- or I would have attached a link. I currently have 4 of them in stock & could part with one if you need.
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Enjoy,
Dale
So, what you're telling me is the pin is nickel silver or SS rod? I would think either would be too soft to resist the friction of the blade rotation. Then again, I have never built a slip joint of any type, so am just being sure I'm doing this correctly and not misinterpreting what you are telling me. I really don't want to do this knife over.
The pivot pin in the knives I have disassembled does seem to be .125. One of the blades has the pivot hole wallowed out, but it is the one that will no be reused, so not an issue. The pivot hole on the good blade measures out at about .128. Is this about right? I assumed there needs to be clearance, but wasn't sure .003 is not excessive.
All input appreciated, as usual.
Bruce
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