Featured Blog Posts - iKnife Collector2024-03-29T01:54:41Zhttps://iknifecollector.com/profiles/blog/feed?promoted=1&xn_auth=noFun Summer Project for My Granddaughtertag:iknifecollector.com,2022-07-24:3181080:BlogPost:16994902022-07-24T22:49:32.000ZLars Rayhttps://iknifecollector.com/profile/LarsRay
<p>My 10 year old granddaughter has been into photography for several years now, growing her skills with her dad's "hand-me-down" digital cameras. This last Christmas, she got all rigged out with new tripod, new camera bag, memory cards, and a bunch of other great camera gear. Earlier this summer she was showing me some of her photos...lots of them...and I was actually surprised! I mean I have to like them all....she's my granddaughter. But I was impressed with her eye and her skills of working…</p>
<p>My 10 year old granddaughter has been into photography for several years now, growing her skills with her dad's "hand-me-down" digital cameras. This last Christmas, she got all rigged out with new tripod, new camera bag, memory cards, and a bunch of other great camera gear. Earlier this summer she was showing me some of her photos...lots of them...and I was actually surprised! I mean I have to like them all....she's my granddaughter. But I was impressed with her eye and her skills of working the camera. </p>
<p>Yes - there were the expected hoard of kitty photos - I mean what 10 year old girl wouldn't have that? Then there were lots of baby goat shots, baby pigs, the mama pig, shots of the donkeys, a few of Sam (the Grand Pyrenees farm dog), and lots of selfies. It was obvious she was having fun.</p>
<p>So I thought I would give her a challenge. I opened up my case of Outback Bowies and asked if she would be interested in taking some photos of O'Bear's knives (that's me BTW). I told her that I was interested in getting some new photos to post here on iKC. I also provided an incentive - I told her I would pay her for her photos if they were good enough to post on the site.</p>
<p>At first she was intimidated...but after a week of thinking about it, the money sounded pretty good. (I think her dad had some influence there...)</p>
<p>So she agreed and asked me what I wanted. I told her she had complete artistic license, and that I wanted her to use her imagination. Basically..."if these were your knives, how would you photograph them?"</p>
<p>This is what she came up with:</p>
<p><strong>Outback Bowie Type 1L</strong></p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10668202101?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10668202101?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p></p>
<p><strong>Outback Bowie Type 1W</strong></p>
<p><strong><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10668209260?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10668209260?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></strong></p>
<p></p>
<p><strong>Outback Bowie Type 2L</strong></p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10668217656?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10668217656?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p></p>
<p><strong>Outback Bowie Type 2W</strong></p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10668235664?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10668235664?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p></p>
<p>OK - so she used the same scheme and set up for all of the shots. But I gotta admit - my initial impression was "wow, these are pretty good!"<strong> </strong>And when I studied these further, I recalled all those shots of the kitties, the baby pigs, Sam, and the donkeys.....they were all in the same pastoral setting.</p>
<p>OK O'Bear...stop thinking knife collector and start thinking like a 10 year old. </p>
<p>So I asked her about her thought process and how she come up with this particular idea. Here's the money shot...."I wanted to show your knives in their natural setting O'Bear. This is where you use them, right?"</p>
<p>You're absolutely right Addie!</p>
<p>So....whatta you think? Will any of these make it in the 2022 iKC Calendar this year? Who knows...but it was a great time to engage my granddaughter, invest in her skills, and give her a chance to show off a little.</p>
<p>And needless to say, they are good enough to post here on iKC!</p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p></p>Cold Steel SRK-C vs. Mora Garbergtag:iknifecollector.com,2022-03-08:3181080:BlogPost:16959832022-03-08T04:18:16.000Zdead_left_knife_guyhttps://iknifecollector.com/profile/deadleftknifeguy
<p>At some point, I answered a question on a Facebook group for Mora users & collectors. While that answer was a bit of a knife review in brief, I have no idea what happened to that reply I made and it's likely forever lost to the annals of Facebook.</p>
<p>The summary, however, is this: the Cold Steel SRK-C ("C" standing for "compact") is a very viable alternative to the Mora Garberg. The SRK-C has a saber grind, similar to the Garberg's, but the grind is higher, giving the SRK-C better…</p>
<p>At some point, I answered a question on a Facebook group for Mora users & collectors. While that answer was a bit of a knife review in brief, I have no idea what happened to that reply I made and it's likely forever lost to the annals of Facebook.</p>
<p>The summary, however, is this: the Cold Steel SRK-C ("C" standing for "compact") is a very viable alternative to the Mora Garberg. The SRK-C has a saber grind, similar to the Garberg's, but the grind is higher, giving the SRK-C better geometry for slicing. The Garberg's handle is girthier & likely more hand-filling than the SRK-C's handle, and the Garberg does not have a blade coating. But the SRK-C is about one half the price of the Garberg.</p>
<p>And the reason for the timing of this post is that Atlantic Knife is having a sale on the Cold Steel SRK-C right now, just under $40. Here's the link: <a href="http://https://atlanticknife.com/products/cold-steel-srk-compact-fixed-blade-knife-49lckd?_pos=1&_sid=72d80e864&_ss=r&goal=0_2897ad8c72-ba882c457c-83427232&mc_cid=ba882c457c&mc_eid=e5058f0b70" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Cold Steel SRK-Compact</a> This is a seriously good knife, and worth checking out, certainly at this price point. If you want a slightly larger knife (with a more hand-filling handle), the full-sized Cold Steel SRK is a solid choice (though it's worth noting that the full-sized version has a hollow grind).</p>
<p>I know these knives aren't everyone's style, but they're excellent choices for use. If you have any experience with any of these knives, I definitely welcome your comments below!</p>Looked in the mirror and realized I had a face again!!tag:iknifecollector.com,2022-03-05:3181080:BlogPost:16958782022-03-05T00:58:53.000ZSyd Carrhttps://iknifecollector.com/profile/SydCarr
<p>No more mask mandates, so it's nice to actually see folks faces again isn't it?</p>
<p>However, collecting didn't stop and here are a couple of new ones. A Craftsman 95068 Stockman Buck clone and a Camillus Buck clone. I have been looking for a 300 Series look-alike Camillus for years, and though I had seen photos this is the first I've seen that looked exactly like the Buck 300 Series knives made by Camillus up to 1986. The Craftsman looks more like a Schrade knife to me, mainly from it's…</p>
<p>No more mask mandates, so it's nice to actually see folks faces again isn't it?</p>
<p>However, collecting didn't stop and here are a couple of new ones. A Craftsman 95068 Stockman Buck clone and a Camillus Buck clone. I have been looking for a 300 Series look-alike Camillus for years, and though I had seen photos this is the first I've seen that looked exactly like the Buck 300 Series knives made by Camillus up to 1986. The Craftsman looks more like a Schrade knife to me, mainly from it's thin serpentine appearance, (love the brass bolsters and shield on that one). Either way they both qualify as 300 Series clones in size and frame, (sometimes you gotta dig to find a reason to collect something ya know). The Camillus has a serrated blade too, which makes it cool as can be in my book. I often wonder why Buck didn't order many with serrated blades, Camillus put them on many, many knives but Buck not so much, (at least at that time). The only 300 I know for sure that had a serrated blade was a #317 Trailblazer with serrated secondary blade which is the rarest of the rare in that series, a knife I have only seen in photos, and none I have seen in photos were for sale, (gee, I wonder why?). I also may have seen a #313 with a serrated blade but I have no photos, it's just one of those foggy memories of something I may have seen, (or maybe a hallucination or just wishful thinking?). I'm always on the hunt for any of those, if you see one please let me know.</p>
<p>I've collected more knives since the pandemic started, but I'll get around to posting photos of those later, for now this'll do.</p>
<p>Well, it's been nice "seeing you", hope you all are well, cheers.</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10170481298?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10170481298?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10170481862?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10170481862?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10170481672?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10170481672?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10170482060?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10170482060?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a> one of these days. Meanwhile the collecting bug still needs to be fed.</p>Sheaths, Scabbards, Frogs, and Throgstag:iknifecollector.com,2021-10-24:3181080:BlogPost:16880612021-10-24T16:47:20.000ZLars Rayhttps://iknifecollector.com/profile/LarsRay
<p>I was wandering around some of the older discussions recently and I came across one that grabbed my interest. Eight years ago, iKC member Robert Burris started a discussion called “Knife Carry?” and asked the question “What is the difference between a "Sheath"...." Scabbard"... or "Frog?"…</p>
<p></p>
<p>I was wandering around some of the older discussions recently and I came across one that grabbed my interest. Eight years ago, iKC member Robert Burris started a discussion called “Knife Carry?” and asked the question “What is the difference between a "Sheath"...." Scabbard"... or "Frog?"</p>
<p><a href="https://iknifecollector.com/profiles/blog/show?id=3181080%3ABlogPost%3A905634&commentId=3181080%3AComment%3A905492">https://iknifecollector.com/profiles/blog/show?id=3181080%3ABlogPost%3A905634&commentId=3181080%3AComment%3A905492</a></p>
<p>Believe it not, this same question is being asked today across knife, gun, bayonet and sword forums alike…so it appears it doesn’t matter the size or length of blade – the question is universal across those who use and collect sharp and pointy things.</p>
<p>The terms themselves are easy to define and the etymology of each is somewhat easy to understand (that’s the origin of the term). Definition and Etymology explain <em>what</em> these items are, and to a degree, their purpose. When you compare the root meanings and etymology of sheath and scabbard – and holster for that matter – you see that a scabbard is also sheath, but a sheath is not also a scabbard. Similarly, a scabbard can be a holster, but a holster is not always a scabbard. That’s because the word sheath and holster is a derivatives of scabbard. If nothing else, that explains why they are so often used interchangeably.</p>
<p>What I see as the main contributor to this question repeatedly being asked is a lack of context for the <em>application</em> and <em>function</em>. Is it a sheath or a scabbard? Is it a frog or a throg? Wait, where does the Hanger or Baldric come into play? What about the Sling? By understanding the application and function, we then learn the How and Why. In a word…<em>context</em>.</p>
<p>Because we do not go around wearing a sword as part of our fashion wear, or a bayonet as part of our work attire, throgs, hangers, and baldrics are less prevalent in their use and general understanding today outside of the military. Since we do not wear the weapons these accessories support, there’s no application or function for us to reference. The pictures we see of our soldiers today do not have these elements on them as part of their uniform or gear, so they are no longer general knowledge terms. There is no context.</p>
<p>For us knife guys and gals, Tobias’ explanation in that same discussion was simple and bang on – and he expertly answers the original question. Mic drop…done. We can all go home now knowing when a sheath is a sheath and not a scabbard, and that a frog is not a reptile, but a hangy down thingy to hold a scabbard from a belt.</p>
<p>For the rest of us who thrive on useless trivia and want to really understand some differences between the terms and their applications, then I invite you to read on.</p>
<p></p>
<p><strong>Sheaths, Scabbards, Frogs, and Throgs</strong></p>
<p>In their root meanings, the sheath and the scabbard perform the same function - they serve as a means of encasing and carrying a blade. As stated above, sheath is a derivative of scabbard, so this makes sense.</p>
<p>Likewise the frog and throg – they each serve to attach a scabbard to a belt. Because the purpose of each is so similar in function, they are often used synonymously. Grammatically then, it is acceptable to say sheath or scabbard, or frog or throg and be correct (for the most part). You could have the similar discussion between a dagger and a dirk.</p>
<p>What separates then a sheath from a scabbard and a frog from a throg is its context. As with anything in the world of knives, swords, and bayonets, there can be any number of things that either influence or impact the context – such as military traditions, weapon specifications, marketing, cultural norms, historical influences, etc. Sadly, sometimes the terms are based on what was described by someone else who didn’t know better. This is seen most often on descriptions for military pieces being sold by someone who has not made the effort to research it.</p>
<p>So why is this important? As a sword and bayonet collector, I want as much of the weapon’s ensemble, or kit, as possible. The more complete the kit, the more valuable it becomes – particularly for military items.</p>
<p>For example, obtaining an 1898 Imperial German officer’s sword is great. Getting it with its scabbard is fantastic! Getting the same sword with scabbard and its throg? That’s a rare find. Getting the sword, scabbard, throg, and hangers? OMG! Someone catch me, I’m going to faint!</p>
<p>The same is true for knives….if you are after an Imperial HK-5043 Field & Stream hunting knife combination set, you would want the Kamp King and the two blade fishing knife that came with the big fixed blade hunting knife, along with the combo carrying sheath that came with it.</p>
<p>To help illustrate what this whole discussion is about, here are some pic’s to help us get a visual, and perhaps some context as to what these different elements look like, and their application.</p>
<p></p>
<p><strong>Sheath</strong></p>
<p>Here is a good example of a sheath. It’s your basic double stitched cowhide leather sheath with an attached belt loop (or integrated frog if you prefer) and cross-over strap and secure snap. It hangs from your belt, and it covers your knife. <a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732592061?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732596059?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732596059?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p></p>
<p>Sheath designs vary in size and shape, and may include “value-added” elements such as a pocket for a sharpening stone, or extra straps for a variety of carrying options, as seen here:</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732600098?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732600098?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p></p>
<p>Here’s a slight twist in the discussion – and that’s when a sheath is not a sheath or a scabbard, but a holster, as illustrated by this high-end knife holster by WOOX.</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732601484?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732601484?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p>I know, don’t get me started. It just proves the point that market positioning can influence the terminology which adds to the fog. Is this holster also a sheath? Yes. But it has a frog…so doesn’t that make it a scabbard? Yes, but they call it a holster, so let’s move on.</p>
<p></p>
<p><strong>Scabbard</strong></p>
<p>This is a good example of a bayonet scabbard. This one is for the Japanese Arisaka Type 30 bayonet. The scabbard is secured into a frog by means of a strap and buckle system. Notice the strap flange at the throat of the scabbard…that’s where the strap fits through and is buckled to the frog.</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732607062?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732607062?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-center"/></a></p>
<p></p>
<p>And for Tobias, here is what he mentions in the referenced discussion – an M7 knife-bayonet with the M8A1 scabbard. He makes the point that US bayonet scabbards today are “integrated scabbards”, meaning the frog is permanently attached to the scabbard making it similar to a normal knife sheath.</p>
<p>Nod to you Tobias!</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732608855?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732608855?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732609076?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732609076?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p></p>
<p><strong>Frog</strong></p>
<p>That leads us to the frog – that belt accessory most associated with bayonet scabbards, but also has applications for some knives, daggers and dirks, and swords. This is one of several frog types for the Japanese Arisaka Type 30 scabbard above. Note the strap fitting through the scabbard flange to secure it within the frog.</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732622264?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732622264?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p></p>
<p><strong>Throg</strong></p>
<p>Next, the throg. Here too it is not exclusively used for swords, but also for some sword bayonets, as seen on this fine and rare Austrian Webern specimen:</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732611690?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732611690?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p>I know, looks like a frog, but it’s not…it’s a throg.</p>
<p>Here are some sword throgs. 1 and 2 are US Army and Air Force, 3 is US Army.</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732614694?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732614694?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-center"/></a></p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p>Here, the top left is the US Navy CPO Cutlass throg, the top right is the US Coast Guard CPO Cutlass throg, and the bottom center is….you guessed it, the USMC Model 1859 NCO Sword throg.</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732616452?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732616452?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p>This is a sword belt with the throg attached:</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732640077?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732640077?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p><strong>The Hangers</strong></p>
<p>Next we add some hangers. Hangers are chains or straps that connect some sword and dagger scabbards to the throg or frog, which is then attached to the belt.</p>
<p>Here is my 1939 Luftwaffe 2nd model dagger (or dirk as some refer to it), complete with scabbard (not a sheath), original hangers, and original sword knot. This is a pretty good find….the only part missing from this kit is the frog that connects the hangers to the belt.</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732617487?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732617487?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p>Just to keep things spicy, sword and dagger hanger sets are also referred to as slings, which differ from the sword slings worn over the shoulder.</p>
<p></p>
<p><strong>Putting it all together</strong></p>
<p>Here are two US Army examples of the throg, hangers, and scabbard connected to the belt. Note the hangers connect at the scabbard rings at one end, and on the throg at the other. Photos are from the Marlow White Military Sabers website.</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732619675?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732619675?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-center"/></a></p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732619693?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732619693?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-center"/></a></p>
<p></p>
<p>This is the throg for the West Point Cadet sword. Again it looks like a frog, but it’s not…it’s a throg. How do I know? Because that’s what the Army calls it.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732623477?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732623477?profile=RESIZE_710x"/></a></p>
<p></p>
<p><strong>Baldric and belt systems</strong></p>
<p>Finally, the belt systems, namely the baldric, sling, and Sam Browne belts. A baldric is a belt for a sword or other piece of equipment, worn over one shoulder and reaching down to the opposite hip. What make it different than a sling? Design, era, and everything that makes a frog different from a throg.</p>
<p>Here are two examples of a typical and simple baldric. These are very popular now with Cosplay, reenactment groups, and theater.</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732630486?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732630486?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-center"/></a></p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732636674?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732636674?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-center"/></a></p>
<p></p>
<p>Sword slings, however, are today’s military variety and used for swords and drums. Here are two versions of the US Army webbed sword sling with leather throgs. It too is worn over one shoulder and reaching down to the opposite hip. </p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732630486?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732637288?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732637288?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p></p>
<p>This is a historical British sword sling and throg:</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732638270?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732638270?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p></p>
<p>Lastly, the Sam Browne belt system with sword hangers and throg. This one pictured is the 1901 British model. I'll just note that the hangers on this example are also known as the sword sling. </p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732638699?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732638699?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732639267?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732639267?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-center"/></a></p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p>So what have we learned…what’s the take away?</p>
<p>Well, knives have sheaths, but can also have scabbards. Knife sheaths typically have the frog integrated as part of the sheath to attach to a belt, and that some sheaths include additional straps to allow for a variety of carrying positions. Knives can also have scabbards and holsters. Daggers, dirks, and sometimes knives can also be suspended by hangers or a sling, which is then connected to a frog or attached directly to the belt.</p>
<p>Bayonets have scabbards, even if the bayonet is a knife with a muzzle ring. Scabbards have frogs that secure them to a belt…unless it’s a sword bayonet fitted with a throg that looks like a frog. Bayonets can also have a sling, or belt hanger, such as the AK-74 or the Yugo M70 knife bayonet.</p>
<p>Swords have scabbards too. Swords are worn with hangers or a scabbard sling which is attached to a throg, or a sword frog, which in turn is worn on a belt. Some swords, however, are connected directly to the throg which is either worn on a belt or attached to a shoulder sling. Swords can also be carried using a baldric or shoulder sling. </p>
<p>We learned that many things can influence the naming conventions of these accessories for our knives, swords, and bayonets. Some are legit, some are misidentified, some are historical, some are traditional, and some are grounded in military specifications. All these factors contribute to the inconsistency of both the naming conventions and their use. </p>
<p>As collectors, we love categories and we want everything to fit into it. Suffice it to say that whether you call it a sheath or a scabbard, a frog or a throg, hangers or a sling – you’ll be grammatically correct. Whether or not you will be accurate depends on the context. As we have explored, there is really no hard rule that a knife will always have a sheath, a bayonet will always have a scabbard, or that a sword will always be hung with a throg. </p>
<p>As for me and my collections, I want to be accurate in the nomenclature when I am making a purchase, as this adds value to the piece. But in general terms, I keep it simple in my discussions - all my knives, axes, and bladed tools have a sheath. Machete's....eh, take your pick. All my bayonets have a scabbard, and all my swords have a scabbard. And they all have hangy down thingy’s for my belt.</p>
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<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9732617487?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"></a></p>Couple of last known Bucks and a Barlowtag:iknifecollector.com,2021-03-16:3181080:BlogPost:16785742021-03-16T05:34:48.000ZSyd Carrhttps://iknifecollector.com/profile/SydCarr
<p>I just got two Bucks that are now discontinued, but I got them as the very last in stock at Copper and Clad. I had emailed Buck and asked if they were going to make either the #101 Folding Hunter Fixed Blade, or the #111 Folding Hunter again, (because I missed both when they did have them), and they said they had no plans to do so. I found that Copper and Clad had the #101 fixed blade, with one only left in stock, and they also had their exclusive #111 Folding Hunter with Sloped Bolsters,…</p>
<p>I just got two Bucks that are now discontinued, but I got them as the very last in stock at Copper and Clad. I had emailed Buck and asked if they were going to make either the #101 Folding Hunter Fixed Blade, or the #111 Folding Hunter again, (because I missed both when they did have them), and they said they had no plans to do so. I found that Copper and Clad had the #101 fixed blade, with one only left in stock, and they also had their exclusive #111 Folding Hunter with Sloped Bolsters, Rosewood Handles, and Stone Washed Drop Point 420hc blade, with only one of those left in stock. I managed to get them both. I already have a #101 BCCI Club Annual Knife, with Swirled Carbon Fiber Handles and Satin S30v steel, but I wanted a "user" version so I looked for a "stock" model. They came with Crelicam Ebony Handles and regular 420hc steel, but they are now considered discontinued. Both came with "stock" Black Leather Sheaths. Being "exclusive" I got the very last Copper and Clad #111, so that's cool in it's own right.</p>
<p> I also picked up a Craftsman Barlow off of the bay, mainly because I didn't have a Craftsman version yet, I got the one below in earlier this week. Not too bad condition considering it is carbon steel.</p>
<p>So, I got that addictive urge to buy new knives scratched, but my credit card ran away from home in the process, however I suspect it will come home when it gets hungry.</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8671342296?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8671342296?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8671343075?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8671343075?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8671344300?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8671344300?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p>KnifeAddictsAnonymous KAAtag:iknifecollector.com,2013-09-25:3181080:BlogPost:9686212013-09-25T17:46:37.000ZClay Stronghttps://iknifecollector.com/profile/ClayStrong
<p>I was thinking how tough it would be to give up the use of a knife or reading about them, for even one day, I got the shakes just thinking about it. Maybe if I develop a 10 step program, I will be able to bring my addiction under control. I need those who are not suffering too bad ( yet ) to make suggestions as to what those 10 steps might be. </p>
<p>Disclaimer:</p>
<p>I take no responsibility for what may occur to others who choose to follow the suggestions for a KAA program. And, I do…</p>
<p>I was thinking how tough it would be to give up the use of a knife or reading about them, for even one day, I got the shakes just thinking about it. Maybe if I develop a 10 step program, I will be able to bring my addiction under control. I need those who are not suffering too bad ( yet ) to make suggestions as to what those 10 steps might be. </p>
<p>Disclaimer:</p>
<p>I take no responsibility for what may occur to others who choose to follow the suggestions for a KAA program. And, I do not guarantee that I will do anything to cure myself.</p>The Top Five Boker Fixed Blade Knives! (Look! I made a Top Five list!)tag:iknifecollector.com,2018-12-21:3181080:BlogPost:15765632018-12-21T15:32:06.000ZRicky Rayhttps://iknifecollector.com/profile/RickyRay
<p></p>
<p><strong>The Top Five Boker Fixed Blade Knives</strong></p>
<p><strong>(Since 1955)</strong></p>
<p>As you may already know, I am a fan of Boker knives. I am not so much a fan of “Top 5” or “Top 10” lists, but so many people are doing it, there must be something to it! I have limited this list to post-WW2 knives, because the pre-war knives are so difficult to find nowadays. All the knives in this list are still being produced by the Heinrich Boker Baumwerk in Solingen, Germany. So if…</p>
<p></p>
<p><strong>The Top Five Boker Fixed Blade Knives</strong></p>
<p><strong>(Since 1955)</strong></p>
<p>As you may already know, I am a fan of Boker knives. I am not so much a fan of “Top 5” or “Top 10” lists, but so many people are doing it, there must be something to it! I have limited this list to post-WW2 knives, because the pre-war knives are so difficult to find nowadays. All the knives in this list are still being produced by the Heinrich Boker Baumwerk in Solingen, Germany. So if you see something you like, you can purchase one of your own. Without further ado:</p>
<p><strong><em>#1) the classic Jagdnicker.</em></strong></p>
<p>This is a traditional German hunting knife pattern dating back centuries. Legend has it these small knives were used to finish the hunt for game animals such as boar and stag. Nowadays they are quite handy as a fish and fowl knife, or even a good old steak knife. Boker makes a lower cost version of this knife in Argentina under the ARBOLITO trademark, but I love the Solingen made “Gobec Nicker”. These are currently available with grips of either stag (item 121532) or maple (121432). The steel on Boker’s older nickers would be similar to a 1075-1090 carbon steel but today it is Krupp 4034 stainless steel with a hardness of 54-55 HRC. A little soft to suit some, but this also makes it easy to sharpen. The Gobec nicker was designed by Stefan Gobec, a custom knife maker from Austria.</p>
<p><strong><em>#2) the Applegate-Fairbairn Knife.</em></strong></p>
<p>This combat knife was originally designed by Rex Applegate and William Fairbairn. Applegate was a student of Fairbairn, and in the 1990s Col. Applegate made a series of improvements to the original Fairbairn dagger. Custom designer and knife maker Bill Harsey, Jr. of Croswell, Oregon is responsible for the prototypes and design of the most recent and popular A-F fighting knife. Boker makes no less than 14 different variations of this knife with N690 or 440C blade steel, and handles of delrin, canvas micarta, G-10, and three different types of wood. A couple of little known secrets about this knife: There are movable weights underneath the handle, in order to get the perfect balance for the individual user. Also, the blade has a different grind on each side. On one side is a typical double conical dagger grind, and on the other side is a hollow grind. My favorite version is the A-F 5.5 (120545), featuring a 5.5” 440C stainless steel blade, and a green canvas micarta handle.</p>
<p><strong><em>#3) the Savannah, a hunter’s classic.</em></strong></p>
<p>The Boker Savannah was developed in collaboration with professional big game hunters on the plains of Africa. Designed by Austria’s renowned blacksmith and knife maker Armin Stutz, with N690 steel. I love the classic lines of this blade, along with the single finger groove in the handle. You really learn the usefulness of the finger groove when it comes to “skinning time”. Boker sells this knife with handles of stag, ram horn, amboina wood, and – my favorite – green canvas micarta (120620).</p>
<p><strong><em>#4) the Smatchet.</em></strong></p>
<p>Who doesn’t love a SMATCHET? Designed by Col. Rex Applegate, this beast, with a 10” blade, can handle almost any outdoor, farm, or camping job. Chopping firewood? Check. Clearing a trail? Check. Pounding in a tent peg? Check. Fighting a bear? Well, there is some debate about this being the proper bear fighter. Steel is N690, and yes, Boker currently offers this knife with green canvas micarta handles (122578). Listen, this canvas micarta is no joke. When you are bloody, sweaty, or just all wet, you can still grip these CNC machined handles with ease.</p>
<p><strong><em>#5) the Swiss Dagger.</em></strong></p>
<p>This is the only knife on this list that I would not recommend as a useful tool. Don’t get me wrong, it can be used as a dagger. However, for me, the ergonomics of the handle and the balance are obsolete. I still like this knife though for its beauty, quality of artisanship, and sheer historical value of the pattern. This style of knife was used by Swiss pikemen in the 15<sup>th</sup> century. The design of the pommel and crossguard can be traced back to the 13<sup>th</sup> century! The dark side of this pattern cannot be ignored, being infamous as the SA dagger in the 1930s until the middle of WW2. Many knife makers in Solingen made this pattern, including Boker. The blade etch on the current model matches the blade etch used by Boker in the years leading up to WW2. I love the C75 (SAE 1075) steel and cherry wood grips on the original model (121550). The Swiss dagger makes a great presentation piece or historical reproduction. Going up quite a few steps in elegance, this model is also manufactured with twisted Damascus steel and an ebony handle (121551DAM).</p>
<p>So there’s my top five list. I can’t say as I feel any different now, having made a list. I hope you have enjoyed it. How about you? Do you have a favorite Boker fixed blade pattern I’ve missed? Post it up!</p>Custom Knives by Alan Davistag:iknifecollector.com,2016-07-06:3181080:BlogPost:14284102016-07-06T10:30:00.000ZDennis Hibarhttps://iknifecollector.com/profile/DennisHibar
<p>Thought I would start a blog here to showcase the work of my favorite knifemaker. I stumbled across Alan Davis, a knifemaker from Boerne, Texas, in late 2012. I was blown away by his knife designs. Even more astounding was the fact that they were virtually all one of a kind creations. Alan didn't just make one or two patterns and then just outfit them with different materials. Each and every one was pretty much different. While he did have a few designs that people seemed to like and…</p>
<p>Thought I would start a blog here to showcase the work of my favorite knifemaker. I stumbled across Alan Davis, a knifemaker from Boerne, Texas, in late 2012. I was blown away by his knife designs. Even more astounding was the fact that they were virtually all one of a kind creations. Alan didn't just make one or two patterns and then just outfit them with different materials. Each and every one was pretty much different. While he did have a few designs that people seemed to like and ask for, even those were made a little differently to make them unique. Alan works with all types of handle and blade material ... but does prefer Damascus blades. I currently own 67 of his knives (mainly his linerlock folders, do have a few frame locks, slip joints and fixed blades) and jokingly told Alan that I would love to have owned 100 of his knives before I die. Wasn't sure that would happen (while I sell many of his knives, I have been known to give a some away to close friends, so that they understand why I keep praising Alan's work!) ... but, that milestone was reached on April 19th, 2021, when I hit that 100 goal. He is the only maker who I would have no problem asking to make a knife for me and leaving everything (material/design) up to him ... and be confident that I would be thrilled with the results! I have done this twice .... and thrilled both times! </p>
<p>To start things off, here is one of my favorites that I picked up in 2014 (though I have so many I love, that picking favorites is a very difficult task!). It is a beautiful linerlock folder with amber Sambar stag scales and M3 composite bolsters. The blade measures 3.375" and is made from Damascus by Zoe Crist (in his Blackhawk pattern). Pocket clip is also Zoe's Damascus. Backspacer and liners are nuggetized and anodized a sort of plum color. All in all, a beautiful knife that feels super nice in the hand and is not too large or heavy to carry around clipped to your pocket all day. Hope you like it.</p>
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<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2804833945?profile=original" target="_self"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2804833945?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-left" width="750" height="315"/></a></p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2804835224?profile=original" target="_self"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2804835224?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-right" width="750"/></a><a target="_blank" href="http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/zampom/Alan%20Davis%20Knives/ADAmbSamStag2_zpsr41pm9dp.jpg" rel="noopener"><br/></a> <a target="_blank" href="http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/zampom/Alan%20Davis%20Knives/ADAmbSamStag9_zps7ddupvya.jpg" rel="noopener"><br/></a> Stay tuned ....</p>
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<p></p>Razor sharpening .tag:iknifecollector.com,2016-09-14:3181080:BlogPost:14411972016-09-14T11:09:14.000ZJohn Bamfordhttps://iknifecollector.com/profile/JohnBamford
<p>A shortish blog on sharpening straight razors. It will be short because I know little enough , though I have learned enough to be able to get the job done . Maybe I can return to this in future when I have more information but for the present it will be brief .</p>
<p>1 . If you want to learn to shave using a straight razor the most effective way is to buy a new razor from a dealer who is known for sharpening their razors before sending them out . Buy a strop at the same time , not a…</p>
<p>A shortish blog on sharpening straight razors. It will be short because I know little enough , though I have learned enough to be able to get the job done . Maybe I can return to this in future when I have more information but for the present it will be brief .</p>
<p>1 . If you want to learn to shave using a straight razor the most effective way is to buy a new razor from a dealer who is known for sharpening their razors before sending them out . Buy a strop at the same time , not a terribly expensive one , you can pay an awful lot of money for strops . Don't pay too much because you will likely cut it , if it's not too badly cut sanding it down will make it serviceable again.</p>
<p>Whilst learning to shave save up for two stones one about 7000 grit and one finishing stone 12/15000 grit . these stones will bring your razor back to shave ready when stropping no longer does the job .</p>
<p>A video on how to do this ,</p>
<p><a href="https://youtu.be/cXVW_S6VaBw">https://youtu.be/cXVW_S6VaBw</a></p>
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<p>2. If you really have no idea about sharpening at all then when your razor needs honing send it off to one of the guy's that will do it for a few bucks . Course you won't have a razor whilst it is gone , you could buy two of course use one and send the other .</p>
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<p>3 If you can't sharpen a knife to a reasonable level then perhaps that is the place to start because a razor does need to be sharp a half sharp razor is dangerous .</p>
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<p>4 Okay now we have got that out of the way I guess most of us can sharpen and already have some equipment . For a razor you need stones , the various fixed angle sort of things like the Edge Pro etc aren't a great help here . The reason for that is that a razor comes with the angles sorted for you , assuming that we have a good or new razor and not one that has been mangled or botched in some way . So stones needed 1000; 4000, 8000, and a finishing stone 12/15000 .This is a list that could and has been argued about on various forums for ever . If however you have something like this you are good to go. To use these the 1000 only needs to be used once normally when setting the bevel , basically establish a sharp edge with this stone then refine that edge with the other ones . So far so good then simply take your razor and lightly stroke the thing edge leading on the first stone then through the progression strop it for a while and prepare for a marvellous shave .</p>
<p>Well that is it in the proverbial nutshell, but and there are a lot of buts! .It is best to have a jewelers loupe because it is hard to see what you are doing on the edge without . </p>
<p>You need to develop a method of keeping the heel and the point in contact with the stone evenly so as to even out the wear on the razor. This comes down to feel and observation , the loupe again . Course you could buy a USB microscope they are fairly cheap and I have been meaning to buy one for a while . The fear of more information than I have the skill to deal with has so far put me off .</p>
<p>If you have the stones and the loupe or microscope all you really need is to haunt youtube for a while as there are enough video's on there . From my experience try to stick to one or two people as too much information coming from different angles can cause brain ache .Then like any other thing it is a matter of practice and observation .</p>
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<p>I did not have all these different stones to start with . What I did have was three Japanese waterstones and a reasonably comprehensive selection of stones to go on the Edge Pro . I hoped to use the Edge Pro and was dismayed to find that it was not going to be a big help . So the stones I had were , well I am not certain there is a course medium and fine , I knew what they were when I bought them but had forgotten and the only writing on them was in Japanese . They were bought a long time ago and had not been used a lot due to not having a PC to learn from youtube ! After spending what for me was a lot on the Edge Pro I was reluctant to buy a whole bunch of stones at $100 each so had to look around for alternatives . I bought a Belgian Bllue stone for say $50 and a Finnish waterstone for a similar amount and to finish of an ILR at $30 . These together with my three japanese stones allow me to sharpen to a degree that at present I am satisfied with , though heaven knows they are a strange collection .</p>
<p>So I have as far as I can tell,</p>
<p>Japanese 600 grit</p>
<p>Japanese 1000 grit </p>
<p>Finnish 3000 grit *</p>
<p>Japanese 5000 grit </p>
<p>Belgian Blue 7000 grit *</p>
<p>Imperia la Rocca 12/15000 grit *</p>
<p>The ones with stars after are natural stones so the grit rating is arbitrary .</p>
<p> If you go online and look at youtube you will very quickly find that there are so many variations some people manage with one Belgian Coticule and vary the slurry to make the stone work as if different grit sizes . Some have a staggering array of stones which must be used in an approved manner ending with a 20000 stone that costs $500 . Then there are others who use a 4000/8000 double sided stone and maybe even one from China . After a while i decided it was best to try to get by on what I had .</p>
<p>I haven't mentioned J'nats yet and have no intention of doing so cos it makes my brain ache to even read about such things .</p>
<p>It all get's to sounding complicated at times but if you remember that you are just putting an edge on a piece of steel it brings you back to earth . </p>
<p>One last point when you have ground your razor against the stones you have the big question comes up "how do I know if it is sharp enough". You can see a bunch of different tests on video's but the one I like , bearing in mind that shaving is the only real test , is run the razor along a hairy part of you with the edge a 1/16 or so away from the skin . See how the hair reacts if it seems to almost leap off and sticks to the razor , my razors are all carbon steel so always have a degree of oil on , If that occurs you have reached the promised land and can lather up . Anything else and it is back to plan two .</p>
<p>I have read this back and can only apologise for making it sound complicated I have loved learning to sharpen my own razors. I am sure there is still a lot to learn and that is okay by me cos I am enjoying the learning . It really is satisfying to buy a razor cheaply from the Bay and sharpen it up for what is likely the first time in 50 , 60 years or more .</p>
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