Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by J.J. Smith III on November 15, 2011 at 18:02

Thank's Stephen.  I'll have to work one up.

Permalink Reply by Jan Carter on November 15, 2011 at 18:24

I am working on getting the time JJ.  Seems I will have to do it at night when Donnie is here.  He is pretty sure he will have to glue a thumb back on

Permalink Reply by J.J. Smith III on November 16, 2011 at 0:26

Hey Stephen,

Is this something like you had in mind?

Permalink Reply by stephen tungate on December 5, 2011 at 18:15

that is it jj. that way you can wear it or set it on a shelf  that's a great job sir....jan they have chain male gloves that you wear with a suite of amour i think that will protect you the first time or just use the whole suite of amour and take a little off the better you get carving....ha ha ha 

Permalink Reply by J.J. Smith III on December 5, 2011 at 19:05

Guess I need to show Jan how to do a hat pin foe Donnie's hat.

Permalink Reply by Gerald Hines on December 5, 2011 at 19:09

Jan check the Sporting goods stores in your area for fish cleaning gloves made of kevlar. We had these when I was splicing telephone cables.

Permalink Reply by Jan Carter on December 5, 2011 at 19:22

Gerald I will.  Time to get started on one.  If no work this weekend, peachseeds it is

Permalink Reply by J.J. Smith III on December 15, 2011 at 17:46

I have a general rule that I only carve , on the porch, when the temprature is between 50 and 90 degrees, so  I was beginning to look forward to cold weather forcing me indoors for the winter. 

The Mrs. had other ideas for this winter.  She went and ordered a dozen spools of paracord so that I can make things inside.

 

All this because she wanted a red and green bracelet for Christmas.

 

Still have to carve the buttons...

Permalink Reply by Jan Carter on December 15, 2011 at 17:48

LOL, that sounds like fun JJ.  No wasting time on her shift is there?

Permalink Reply by J.J. Smith III on December 15, 2011 at 17:57

That's for sure. 

 

She just dropped off an envelope full of new patterns for paracord stuff.  Guess she don't want me to get in a rut.

 

(Now I really need my carvin shed).

Permalink Reply by Jan Carter on June 20, 2012 at 18:39

Reply by D ale on June 1, 2011 at 23:47

Delete

Cut a chunk from new willow trimmings. The appropriate length is dependent upon the width/dia ...and... skill. Cut a big chunk right off the bat .. makes that first "do over" look.almost.natural. 

The left end is beginning to take shape. Note the curved cut for the mouthpiece.

The blade on the whistle to be shows where the bark is "ringed". Cut through just the bark.

Tapping (close the knife blade & use the butt end of the knife) on the portion of the bark you wish to remove loosens it. Hammering on it breaks it .. the bark.

Begin with a branch/cutting of willow .. weeping willow cut in the spring shortly after the sap begins to flow .. preferred.

This pic shows the bark just beginning to slide off & be removed .. note the gap to the left of the blade.

The bark is almost fully removed. Slide it off carefully.

The bark has been successfully removed.

First thing to do once the bark has been successfully removed, re-installed, 'n aligned .. is to cut the notch.

Pic is with the notch just cut .. top view.  H2O helps .. keep everything moist !!!

Notch just cut .. side view.

Shows beginning of resonant cavity. This step where you’re forming the resonant cavity .. take it easy .. it is real easy to cut right through to the under-cut for the lower lip. Real easy !!!

Excercise caution when forming the resonant cavity !!!

Be careful .. a series of smaller cuts .. be careful not to cut all the way through !!!

The resonant cavity is finished ..now.. the addition of the flat cut for the airway .. 'n take that one easy too .. things are just getting fragile by this point .. not a lot of meat/wood left in some areas. 

 

... try to get the flat of the flat  parallel with the btm of the resonant cavity .. it wks better that way.

Also, the length of the resonent cavity has a direct influence on the resulting pitch. You need to simply make a few to get the hang of it.

Begin re-assembly.  Keep everything wet .. the stick.bark.all of it.

Trim the end off square. Sorry .. poor depth of field in the macro mode.

Permalink Reply by Jan Carter on June 20, 2012 at 18:47

Blade grinds on the primary.
Posted by D ale on June 17, 2011 at 2:31 in Whittling / Carving knives

Something I’ve noted (perhaps, imagined) with split back whittlers and the passing of time. The grind on the primaries used to retain more of the stout thickness inherent in the design.

 

That btm one is a Waterville.  It’s a saber spear blade grind .. and it is stout.

The Schrade in the middle was mid~late 40’s production. It’s a std spear blade grind. You still cannot tell where the tang stops & the blade grind begins .. top view anyway.

The top one is Queens current production #48. It has a clip blade grind .. no problem telling where the tang stops & the blade grind begins on that one !!! 

I don’t get it .. have the primary be 2~3 times as thick (robust) as the secondary’s .. by design !!!

Then purposely grind it down to the flimsier thickness of the secondary’s .. right after the tang ?? 

Is this something you folks also see in your whittlers ???

What about the Warncliffe blade grind ???

Reply by Ken Erickson on June 19, 2011 at 17:56

The tang thickness is more to facilitate adding clearance for the secondary blades to nest and also give a  resting place for the two secondary blade springs. Back in the day, the factories where not as concerned about blades rubbing each other. On customs and higher end knives today most buyers expect no blade rub. I think that is why the Queen has more "drop" in the grind

Ken,

Thanks, that makes sense

• reply by D ale on June 19, 2011 at 19:33

I know what you mean about the clearance issues .. but check it out .. there aren't any !!!!

 

That Waterville on the btm is 100 yrs old and there's no wear to indicate the blades have been touching .. tolerances are tight on that one !!!

 

One can begin to see more clearance between the blades on the  Schrade in the middle.

 

That Queen should never have one blade touch another .. it just seems excessive clearance @ the loss of blade strength on the primary ?!?!?

 

I guess my question is ..... Given the fact that a whittler ..by design.. requires the primary to be ~ twice as thick as either secondary .. why waste any more of that added sturdiness addressing clearance issues than absolutely neccesary ???

Permalink Reply by D ale on June 19, 2011 at 23:54

 

Is the increased tolerance to more readily facilitate mass production .. perhaps ???

Permalink Reply by J.J. Smith III on June 20, 2011 at 17:22

 

Clearence on my Bulldog Viking is somewhat tight.  The blades are the same size as on the Thor, in a smaller frame.  The Wharncliffe spine will push the secondaries out, at the end, if they aren't closed carefully.

Permalink Reply by Jan Carter on June 20, 2011 at 19:34

 

Ken,

I understand exactly what you are saying and it makes sense to me but in looking at your knives last week I dont remember the gaps being as prominant as we are seeing here.  So I wonder if Dales question is very valid

Is the increased tolerance to more readily facilitate mass productions...perhaps???

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