Tools for knife enthusiasts

A place to discuss tools specifically relevant to knife making and restoration. But since Boys (and girls) like toys, we'll likely end up talking about tools in general anyway!

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  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    I've always had good luck with tools from Little Machine Shop.

    I've no experience with this particular bench style band saw, though.

  • allanm

    Thanks Dale, I'll take a closer look from home a bit later. That looks really interesting. I'm used to the conventional standing, or bench top bandsaws - had not until recently seen the portable hand held ones that look like this one would when removed from the base. This one looks interesting - the only downside I see with it at a quick glance, it may not be much use for splitting a piece of wood, aka re-sawing. And of course doubling up as a kind of scroll/jig saw for curved cuts would not be as easy.

  • Jan Carter

    I have never seen one of those in person either but it does make an interesting thought


  • Featured

    Jeremy B. Buchanan

    I have never heard of them before and I have been a machinist for almost 30 years. Looks like they have some neat stuff. 


  • KnifeMaker

    Carl Rechsteiner

    Metal band saw (portaband posted below) and wood band saws are made very different because they do different things. The wood saw will not hold up to the duties of a metal saw. However you can set up your portaband to split handle material quite easily and do a fairly decent job of it. I will take a few pics of my mods on a portaband to make it more shop versatile. Couldn't live without either of my portabands - genuine workhorses.


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    Thank you, Carl . your comment from experience speaks volumes !!!

    .

    As Carl pointed out .. a saw designed for wood will have limited use for metal

    whereas

    a saw designed more robustly for metal

    could .. do both .. wood & metal.

    .

    Further .. the portaband could be configured in a fixed vertical position.

    With the addition of some fairly simple jigs / fixtures

    and an ample amount of patience

    could

    cut scale material .. liner material .. blade blanks ..etc

    .

    !!! .. versatile .. !!!

    .

    A key attribute when shop space is a premium.


  • Featured

    Jeremy B. Buchanan

    I use a right angle die grinder quite often in my shop. It is a very handy tool. I mostly use it with a quick change sanding disk set up. Anyone else use one?

  • Jan Carter

    Donnie has one and it is usually what he uses to cut the round stock off with before he starts forging

  • allanm

    So there's on I had never even heard of before! A common angle grinder I knew of course. maybe I've seen the right angle die, just don't remember seeing one, and definitely never heard the name.

  • Michael Squier

    Carl, im intersetd to see pics or your portabands, I just think of them as cutting tubing. Tools are meant to be modified. 


  • KnifeMaker

    Carl Rechsteiner

    Appreciate your interest. I have found the portaband to be an extremely useful tool and with the right blades can do most anything (sawing that is) you need inside the shop with a very small footprint. Made mine portable and it just clamps into my big bench vice in the shop or post vice out at the forge. Stows out of the way on the wall or under the bench.

    With a fresh/sharp blade the slow speed makes it quite easy to split handle blanks with a slow steady feed. Very little "true-up" sanding is needed to flatten cuts.

    I will get some pics up soon as I get back in town. Family funeral has me pretty busy and in/out of town for now.

    ps - have to agree, a good angle grinder is a workhorse in it's own right. Can do an awful lot of bulking work with one quite fast.

  • Michael Squier

    I have a suggestion, before we get to many great ideas on the thread here, why not start a few topics above for each tool separatly so the ideas are in one place easy to refer back to. Ie: bandsaw discusion,  Belt sander discusion, etc. 


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    Michael

    !!! .. Agreed .. !!!

    .

    Will result in an organized database on the different shop tools.

    Can even upload manuals & such.

    .

    Cool

  • Michael Squier

    I really like this new group. The next best thing to talking about knives might be talking about and using tools. Old cars might fit in there too, lol

  • allanm

    Wasn't creating this group also your suggestion? :-)

    We could even add another next best along with cars - our old military gear. In looking at the old Carcano bayonet last night, I also looked through my box of medals - only two of my own, basic ones. Some from my dad, mom, the uncle who I got the bayonet from, my grandfather, father in law ... and my old army regimental berets with regimental badges and parade / dress "stable" belts.

    I realized I need to catalog all of those as well so one day when my son gets them from me he knows exactly what each of them are and where they came from.

  • Michael Squier

    Alan, yes catalog it all for the next generation. My dad was a huge collector. He passed away back in 2012 and left his big collection of antique weaponery amd associated stuff, but did not catalog it well, some he bought some was family . I remember a lot of what he told me but wasnt always there so be kind and right it down. 

  • Jan Carter

    I always suggest at the very least.  Index cards with the items.  Easy to keep a stack around, fill them out as you get a chance.


  • Featured

    dead_left_knife_guy

    Jan, that index cards suggestion is genius!  I'm going to implement that one today (I've got a lot of index cards that I haven't found a use for -- until now -- & a lot of knives that could really use the cataloging help)!  Thanks for the tip!!!!!!


  • KnifeMaker

    Carl Rechsteiner

    The portaband stand that D ale posted below has great potential for double use. If it can be locked in the vertical position and a table attachment built so it can be easily removed, it would work just fine and still maintain a reasonably small shop bench footprint. Just remember when cutting wood to put in a fresh blade for cleaner straighter cuts. For some reason those that have been used for cutting a lot of metal tend to drift a bit - thinking the tips are burred just slightly from use. I just keep one blade set to the side marked "Wood". Be easy to clamp a fence on the table but since it goes so slow I just eyeball it.

  • Jan Carter

    ON SALE TODAY, just ordered Donnie one 10 amp deep cut variable speed band saw kit

    139.99, use the coupon code 37783011 and the saw is 104.99 

    http://www.harborfreight.com/10-amp-deep-cut-variable-speed-band-sa...

  • Jan Carter

    Carl,

    Donnie has the big one for wood and this one will be for metal

  • Tom Peterson

    Morning Folks! Just joined this group and don't mean to butt in but...I found this table that will fit several portable band saws (Milwaukee Portoband, DeWalt). Check out swagoffroad.com. I don't have any affiliation with them but maybe if a bunch of folks buy them and tell them that TOM sent them then maybe they'll send me one because I'm in the market for one too. I think that they have several versions of this table of theirs (Versions 1-4) and V-4.0 favors the Milwaukee Portoband but V3 and earlier models fit some other makers. I think that the table by itself is between $125-$130 but don't quote me on that. They offer a foot pedal control as an option ($37) and also offer a pretty nice miter gauge assembly for another $70. It seems to be pretty well made from the pics and short video that that had on their web site. I think that setup would work well for me but might work well for other knife makers either on a tight space or financial budget. This web site also has other machinist type odds and ends. They have solid steel base plates for 1 ton and up arbor presses. Apparently, the site claims, that the cast base plates on arbor presses can "explode" when put under load. The solid steel replacement is $24 if my memory is correct. Not trying to post an add for this place but I thought others might like the table setup. Not sure about the arbor base plate yet as my stock cast one has collected more dust than anything so far. If I ever get around to ordering the table and it's options I'll probably get one of the arbor plates too and I'll let y'all know how it performs.

  • Jan Carter

    That is the same table we are looking at!

  • allanm

    Thanks for the info Tom, that's a good find, interesting.

    Good we had the suggestion to split the tools discussion so we can come back for reference in the future when others of us consider portabands like that in the future

  • Stephen Curry

    Hi group. This is my first post. I would like to thank everyone for welcoming me.
    Now to my point, I have two knives that would be highly collectible if they weren't so badly damaged. I am considering restoring them on my own. I have 1925-32 Queen City swell-center opposite-end jack knife model number 0038; and a Bulldog stag handle, baby sunfish. I'd like share pictures with you and get your input. Can someone direct me to a tutorial, or directions for uploading images.
    Thanks!
  • Jan Carter

    Stephen, start by looking in the knife repair and modification group http://iknifecollector.com/group/kniferepairrestorationupgradegroup

  • Stephen Curry

    Thanks Jan!
  • Michael Squier

    Welcome to the group Stephen, and come back when you need some tool advice, got some very knowledgeable tool users in here.

  • Jan Carter

    Michael is correct!  This group goes hand in hand with that group, some come on back as you get to the tool parts

  • Michael Squier

    I just got a free drill press, its an old Wilton branded made in taiwan but very heavy castinhs and seems well made. Full size but its a bench height post. Yay for me, now where to pu it. 

  • allanm

    Nice acquisition Michael. When I put my Jantz kit together recently, I used my Dremel with "Dremel WorkStation" mini drill press to get a good vertical 1/4" pilot hole. Because I don't have a real drill press, I then used a hand held drill as vertical as possible with that pilot hole to get the 5/16" hole I needed.

    I've never heard of Wilton brand tools, I only know the Wilton name from cake decorating and cake making goodies that my wife buys. I wonder if it's the same, or different Wilton.

    I'm thinking to add a spindle sander and bench grinder / buffer to my collection. I managed to do all my sanding with my Harbor Freight Central Machinery 1x30 belt sander and the tighter and inner curves with my Dremel but a spindle which can handle the full thickness would give a better result than moving the 1/2" Dremel sanding drum up and down.

  • Tom Peterson

    Allan,

    Let us know if you find a good spindle sander. I have a Harbor Freight one that is a few years old & I think that HF downsized their motors or changed the amperage or something after that. Anyway mine is ok for handle material shaping (and maybe softer metals if you're patient) but my Dremel will take off more metal and faster. I'm still looking for something that does a better job - maybe a Foredom.

    I've got a Kalamazoo grinder 2"x48" after my first two HF 1"x30" belt/disk grinders which I still use on handles but the ergonomics on my 3-5 yr. old model aren't as good as the new models they have out now.  It has an upgraded 1 hp motor and is plenty powerful enough for most of my metal grinding needs but does leave a few things to be desired. I would like to get one of the smaller 1"x42" Kalamazoo belt grinders so I could potentially phase out the HF 1"x30"'s. I hate to have too many sizes of belts to deal with though....  If you can afford to get a 2"x72" grinder I personally would. I've been wanting a Beaumont model myself but I'm still researching other options should I win the lottery and can get one!

    I do have a 3/4 hp Baldor buffer (1800 rpm) that I got a couple of years ago and it's amazing the difference between trying to buff a handle with a Dremel (which I've done) and the Baldor's 8" buffs. While being very admirable pieces of equipment these buffers are quite dangerous! They will snatch a finished knife right out of your hands and hurl it at the walls, floor or you if you're not focused. Not trying to be preachy, just wanted to pass on some of my own personal experience.

  • Jan Carter

    Congrats Michael!  When we bought the newest Drill Press we gave the older one to a young man that did not have one.  Passing on the tools is great whether you are the giver or the recipient!

    Tom, while your researching look at Pheers, it was the only 2X72 I could afford that was well built and meant to least and Donnie LOVES it.

    Guys please keep your eyes open for a good sale on the portaband tables?  Thanks

  • allanm

    That's good advice Tom, not preachy. I knew I need to be careful with a tool like that, but a warning like that with personal experience we should all learn from.

    I was looking at Wen and Ryobi spindle sanders. I like Harbor Freight and their sales, but as often as not I'm seeing amazon and Lowe's (or Home Depot which I really don't like much for various reasons) with similar or better prices. And they often have a 2 - 3 year limited warranty where Harbor Freight is nice in 90 days no questions asked, but then nothing beyond that. At least not officially, though others may have good experience with returns and exchanges outside the 90 days.

  • Tom Peterson

    Hey Miss Jan,

    I will check out Pheers. But I'd rather have one that's meant to last, lol!

    The only portaband table that I even know of is on the 4x4 Off Road site that I posted about awhile back. It was about $130+/- but also seemed pretty solidly built from what I could tell from pics.

    Hey Allan,

    I agree with you on the HF experience. I have tried their extended warranty on either my first or second 1x30" and got a replacement with no problem. But after that I do think you're on your own.

  • Michael Squier

    I have tne Ridgid tools spindle/belt ocilating sander, it works great on wood. I have not used it with any metal yet. 

  • Jan Carter

    Tom I promise you it is meant to last.  Donnie uses it daily on forged knives

    That is the table I am looking for but 130 kinda hurts when I only paid 90 for the portaband LOL


  • KnifeMaker

    Carl Rechsteiner

    Hey Folks, been following this a good while. I realize the desire to make knives is very strong - obvious by content of most of the postings. I have a little experience in this area, especially with trying to make the tools I had/have on hand and ones I thought I could afford. I have also made a lot of my own and adapted a lot of tools to do what I needed. It has been quite an adventure, about equal in good and bad as experience goes.

    Bottom line (at least for me) has come to this - sure you can "make" wood working tools do double duty and work metals. Since they are not geared for metal their speeds are usually too high, their bearings are underrated, motors are usually underpowered and not totally protected from extended metal dust, plus several other less than positive attributes. They handle wood and other soft materials well as designed, but simple will not hold up to the rigors of working steel for any serious length of time. One has to weigh the difference in wearing out a good woodworking tool prematurely vs. spending a bit of cash for a tool made for the job and will last a lot longer if maintained properly....plus give much better service and better results.

    Understand I am not in anyway trying to dissuade any of you. I'm all-in for anyone wanting to learn a new skill. Donnie and Jan will confirm this. Just if you are the least bit serious, don't waste the years I did learning and being frustrated by using the wrong tools. Sure, I "made" them work, but very few lasted any cost effective length of time. Just asking you to give it some thought and weigh out the end result.

    Mostly have fun and be safe. If you do use woodworking tools to work steel - make sure you clear all residual dust BEFORE you start making sparks! (or thermal dynamics will do it for you in a less than favorable way)

    As to the warning about the Buffer......the buffer and the wire wheel are probably the two most dangerous tools in your shop. They must be given respect and used with total concentration.

    Hope all of you are having a great New Year, still have all your fingers and, if you can come to Trackrock the weekend after next and have some fun with them.

  • allanm

    Your advice is good Carl, and always welcome. My needs (for now, and I honestly don't expect to change a lot) is for finishing ready made blanks. That's likely to be the extent of my knife making, along with making sheaths from home tanned deer hides.

    I have a small townhouse, no garage - just a small shed outside, so my tool space is very little. With a few physical health issues I don't think I could really do a lot in the way of forging and hammering. With no space to do that anyway, I'm not spending money on that sort of equipment.

    So smaller, woodworking tools will generally work well for me on scale work and some buffing/polishing of finished handles and any minor scratches I might put on the tang in the process. Or minor buffing of knives if I do some repair or restoration work on as I learn.

    I have thought a little about at some point working with a friend who does have some tools suitable for steel to try cutting and grinding a blank from a piece of steel stock and sending it out to a hardening/tempering service. But as people often say here, with my own expression - when the bug bites, the infection grows.

    Warnings of woodworking dust and then sparks from steel is of course totally valid.

  • Michael Squier

    Carl, good advice is always welcome. thanks. 

  • Tom Peterson

    Hey Jan,

    I was just poking fun at you because in your original post you typed that the grinder was "meant to least". But like most of my attempts at humor it went unnoticed, lol. As far as the table goes, you just rationalize that with all of the money that you saved on the portaband you can splurge on the table!

  • allanm

    We all missed it Tom :-) I usually pick up every typo in anything I read. I sometimes say I should have been an editor, not an IT geek / programmer / operating systems type. I am already a beta reader/reviewer for a few authors and get the benefit of reading all their books free. And in some cases, I even get a signed paperback after publication as a thank you, which is a nice touch. Just having early access and free beta, then production releases is reward enough for me.

    But out tools discussions and knife work when it's not too cold for me to work outside is more fun! My wife has been talking again of using a room in the house, if appropriately reorganized. I reminded her as someone else's good advice here came - dust I generate even with me using a mask could get into ventilation ducts. Not a good idea. When I check my little band saw and belt sander, dust seems to be well contained within a very small area, but outside the house is definitely better.

  • Jan Carter

    I can certainly attest to Carl's willingness to be helpful.  Donnie caught the bug standing next to him and he has been a staple in the "how do I do this" conversations right from the start LOL.

    ooops, sorry Tom, not your fault, I did not see the typo in my posting.  I usually try to check them in discussions but not in chat LOL.  Yes I could justify the purchase that way but unless he sells a knife I likely wont LOL

    Guys, I so totally agree with Carl.  In reality the buffer may be the most dangerous tool in the shop.  If it yanks that knife out of your hand, it can seriously kill you.  I have heard tales of a well known maker that ended up with a 1/2 finished knife in his chest.  Took hours to convince the Dr  in the ER and the police he called that really no one attacked him.  On a side note, it took a year to get his knife back and it was ruined from sitting in evidence with blood on it

  • allanm

    A general post for tool buyers in the US.

    I am not a fan of frivolous litigation - I think (as an immigrant observing, now a citizen) too many people are using stupid ways to make money off other people and companies. This may be another case, but it is a valid class action suit if you are not aware of it. Harbor Freight, like many other stores lists their prices, and sometimes reduced prices, along with a "compare at $xxxx" price. Those of us with a brain know the compare at references other retailers, with other brand names, not the same products being sold. But somebody in Ohio initiated a class action suit against Harbor Freight for misleading advertising on that basis - and between the courts and Harbor Freight, they decided to settle with cash refunds or gift cards to a maximum of $23 million.

    You can find more details here, or I could paste in the full text of the email somebody else forwarded to me if you can't see enough.

    In short - any purchases between April 8 2011 and December 15 2016, if your receipt says "you saved $xxx" can get 20% cash or 30% gift cards of the total you saved amount. Credit card statement without receipt you can get 10% cash or 12% gift card of your total purchases. Others, under penalty of perjury meeting some conditions can claim a $10 gift card


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    !!! .. THANK YOU, Carl .. !!!

    Sage advice folks .. from one who speaks from experience.

    !!! .. THANK YOU, Carl .. !!!
    .
    I am an engineer by training. As such .. I witnessed industrial accidents that were horrific. In every case .. they were the result of safety procedures NOT being properly adhered to.

    .

    My formal training also allows me the freedom of "creatively" implementing a tool NOT designed for the purpose to perform the given task at hand. I will simply echo Carl's statement ...

    .

    "Sure, I "made" them work, but very few lasted any cost effective length of time."

    .

    I would also add .. it wasn't always the safest.

    ...again...

    !!! .. THANK YOU, Carl .. !!!

    Comment by Carl Rechsteiner

    ... "Just if you are the least bit serious, don't waste the years I did learning and being frustrated by using the wrong tools. Sure, I "made" them work, but very few lasted any cost effective length of time. Just asking you to give it some thought and weigh out the end result." ...

    ... "As to the warning about the Buffer......the buffer and the wire wheel are probably the two most dangerous tools in your shop. They must be given respect and used with total concentration." ...


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    I've made a point in the past as to the importance of SAFETY in one's shop environment. I offer this as for both humor and cautious reflection ...........

    .

  • Jan Carter

    OMG those are so funny and true!


  • KnifeMaker

    Carl Rechsteiner

    Just looking through this thread and realized that I must have forgotten to post pics of my modified portaband (as promised way back). If I did and just missed it in a fast scroll through, sorry for the redundancy.

    Portaband%20Saw%20Conversion.docx

    Hope you find this useful.


  • KnifeMaker

    Carl Rechsteiner

    Just looking through this thread and realized that I must have forgotten to post pics of my modified portaband (as promised way back). If I did and just missed it in a fast scroll through, sorry for the redundancy.

    Portaband%20Saw%20Conversion.docx

    Hope you find this useful.


  • KnifeMaker

    Carl Rechsteiner

    Wow talk about redundant! Sorry folks, too much coffee jitters.