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Learning from scratch

I have been playing with fixed blade handles and scales for folding knifes that use screw construction for a year or two and am enjoying it. I would also like to learn about working on, refurbishing, etc. the traditional pinned slip joint knives. So, can anyone (in one sentence) tell me how to get started? :) Maybe an instruction book like "slip joint repair for dummies". :) Also a list of essential tools. I'm on a very limited budget so anything I start would be slow going as far as any significant tool expense. All I have now is a drill press and Dremel with most of the attachments and TONS of accessories. I also have most other hand/power tools you find in a lot of houses. Actually the only tool I may be lacking is something for installing the pins. I can picture inserting the pin and then using a hammer to smash the ends so it doesn't fall out. :) Any more accuracy than that I'm sure a tool is required. Then there are probably tools I haven't pictured that are needed. I've been getting most of my knife stuff from USAknifemaker.com and some from jantz.com up to now. Suggestions on parts/tool suppliers is also appreciated.

This knife hobby I've pictured from simple (fixed blade handle) to complicated (forging the blade and everything else). First thing I found out is even a fixed blade handle can be as simple or complicated as you want to make it. And as expensive. :( I even looked into Murray Carter's classes on making a knife. Can't swing the class cost right now not to mention the equipment I'd need to continue at home. Not to mention (again) the additional room I'd need to add to my house. lol Don't think wife will let me forge or cut and grind knife blades on the dining room table. :)

So I'm starting slow which is good. Hate to spend a bunch of money only to find I have no skill. They say there are three financial classes. Have's, have not's and have not paid for what you have's. lol Don't want to join the last group (again). lol

Any advice is appreciated. Maybe this discussion can help others also.

Jack

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Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Steve Hanner on October 5, 2013 at 13:41

Interesting idea, I suppose instead of "grinding those tab holders" off the body of the knife maybe I could tap them flush? Never thought of that. Honestly not sure how hard that would be to do. Might be worth a few taps with a hammer!

D ale said:

Steve,

I'm w/ Brad on this one .. dangerously creative is the way to go !!!

You could tap those 2 unused holes in the frame & use them to mount scale material !?!

The mural sounds interesting.

One could always etch something onto the steel shell itself.

Automotive paint sounds like a pretty good idea.

Do be careful .. those little tabs .. they break easy .. rendering the entire shell unusable.

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on October 5, 2013 at 14:27

Permalink Reply by Steve Hanner on October 5, 2013 at 15:29

Exactly what I thought Dale. If you permit me two more pics. The first one is the almost flat profile of the body of the knife. I say almost flat because you have the two tab holders and you have the pins that hold the knife together.3 of those. Interesting tidbit 2 pins face one direction and a 3rd pin faces another. Done to secure the integrity of the knife.

Here is another thing I learned upon examination. No doubt those tab holders where punched from that small piece of steel. Then to stabilize them, they were soldered. If you look closely a small well done solder line surrounds the tab holder. Here are the pics I just took!

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on October 5, 2013 at 19:01

Steve .. that method for shell scales was patented for it's simplicity. Imperial purchased the US rights to manufacture.

Soldering those tabs represents additional manufacturing steps. One of the patent claims is the reduction of manufacturing steps.

All the Imperials I took apart as a kid ..... that was just a formed part. The tolerance / clearance between the male & female portions of the die were intentionally greater than the material thickness of the metal being formed .. allowing the material to pull & stretch in the area identified as being soldered.

Regardless .. if it's soldered in place .. removal is greatly simplified .. to a propane torch. If not .. a file will do just fine.

http://www.google.com/patents/US2170537?printsec=abstract#v=onepage...

http://www.google.com/patents/US2689400

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on October 5, 2013 at 19:23

Relative to the 2 pins facing one direction while the third is facing the other direction .......

A member posted a video (in the last couple months .. i think) to our Fb page showing these steps during manufacturing assembly. The main pivot pin for the blade and the rear pin for the backspring are inserted first. This allows for the easy opening & closing of the blades for final fitting with the backspring. The overall length of backspring is "adjusted" until the blade rests in the correct position when opened. Then, the partially assembled frame is flipped over, the first 2 pins are held in place by virtue of resting on the wk surface, while the third & final pin is driven into the center of the backspring. Finally, the pins/nails are cut to just oversize and peened into place ..or.. in this case .. stamped in place.

Permalink Reply by Steve Hanner on October 5, 2013 at 20:37

Pretty doggone clever if you ask me! Thanks for the links and info. Really will spend some time on it maybe tomorrow and try to see if I can't make those tabs go away!

I think with that cleared we are good to go to try and come up with a new scale for the knife. If I can clear it will post more pics tomorrow!

Permalink Reply by Steve Hanner on October 6, 2013 at 20:48

Well no time today to do much but one thing I did notice the two holes that were just holes , well they do go through all the way till the blades snap back in! LOL Closed hole! I am back to the drawing board.

Oh and I did heat the area around the tab holder...and I mean I got it hot! I got no movement or melting of any kind. Looks like that patent works!

Permalink Reply by James Cole on October 7, 2013 at 7:57

Steve, You may want to look at using kydex to replace the cladding on those handle pieces. Kydex comes in a lot of different colors now. Jim

Permalink Reply by Steve Hanner on October 7, 2013 at 15:45

I did see some that is really nice thanks for the suggestion. I think the problem will be to refit the metal scales I need to bend or "fold over" the material to remove any gapping. Much like what was on before. It was "tucked in" top and bottom and the scales attached.

James Cole said:

Steve, You may want to look at using kydex to replace the cladding on those handle pieces. Kydex comes in a lot of different colors now. Jim

Permalink Reply by James Cole on October 8, 2013 at 8:33

Once you have formed the Kydex to the radius of the handle and it has cooled, you can spot heat the edges and wrap them under. The good thing with Kydex is if it doesn't fit, you just re-heat and do it over. If you use Kydex you will need to mic the old cladding so you will know what thickness Kydex to buy.

Steve Hanner said:

I did see some that is really nice thanks for the suggestion. I think the problem will be to refit the metal scales I need to bend or "fold over" the material to remove any gapping. Much like what was on before. It was "tucked in" top and bottom and the scales attached.

James Cole said:

Steve, You may want to look at using kydex to replace the cladding on those handle pieces. Kydex comes in a lot of different colors now. Jim

Permalink Reply by Steve Hanner on October 9, 2013 at 12:34

I can say it'll be about the thinnest out there. Looking into it now. Assuming all that works and I get a piece to fit and actually wrap what's the best way to make it stick?

James Cole said:

Once you have formed the Kydex to the radius of the handle and it has cooled, you can spot heat the edges and wrap them under. The good thing with Kydex is if it doesn't fit, you just re-heat and do it over. If you use Kydex you will need to mic the old cladding so you will know what thickness Kydex to buy.

Permalink Reply by James Cole on October 9, 2013 at 19:38

Steve,

I'm just making a guess here, but since this is an economy knife, I'd say they didn't use any adhesive on the handle. I've checked my Irish made Imperial with a loupe and can see no evidence of glue. If you can get a good tight fit, it should stay in place without help.

I'm sure the plastic that Imperial used was die cut and then likely pre-formed. Since you don't have their equipment, hand fitting is going to take a lot more work.

And just thought; you might want to make a paper template to cut the Kydex to shape and size.

Jim