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Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 27, 2019 at 16:09

Hi D ale and anyone else interested. 

I finished the H & B knife with loose MOP scale.  Using your suggestion of 5-minute epoxy, the scale is now firmly attached and the knife cleaned up.  Pictures attached.  Thanks for the advise and support.  I now have a pretty, solid and functional addition to the accumulation of cutting instruments.

Always good to have folks to ask questions when there is a new challenge afoot.

Bruce

Comment by D ale on December 22, 2019 at 1:15

Bruce,

I sent you an email.

D ale

Comment by D ale on December 21, 2019 at 22:30

Specifications
DRSPB8 = .5 long x .125 diameter
(includes 2/2-56 BHT 1/4 screws)
Thread = 2-56
Material = 303 Stainless
(1 Package = 1 Pivot + 2 Screws)

Note: All KnifeKits.com pivots are heat treated for low wear.
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Their LINK came back up.

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However, should you experience any difficulties ... I've still got one in the wings for you.
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While on that subject .. you might consider "washers" through the pins & between the blade & liners. Although, the above linked washers  are 0.015" thick ea. This set is slightly thinner @ 0.012" thick ea. 

... ... ... BUT ... ... ...

imo .. I'd skip the washers because the threaded fasteners of the hardened pins allow for an infinite adjustment for your desired fit. Further, once threadlocked into place .. they stay there. Well, till you might desire removal for some purpose or an adjustment @ a later date anyway.

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Again, if you experience any difficulties through Knifekits .. I've a hardened SS pivot pin in the wings for you.
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Note: I've sourced a lot of parts through knifekits & never experienced a problem !

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Enjoy,

D ale

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 21, 2019 at 21:58

OK, that computes.  I would be tickled if you would lend me a fastener.  I can see this also making it easier to leave a slight clearance for smooth blade movement.  You must, however, allow me to replace it when the web site comes back up.  How would you prefer I send you my home address?  My email is brucensherry@gmail.com.  Thanks

Bruce

Comment by D ale on December 21, 2019 at 21:03

* 0.500" in overall length

Comment by D ale on December 21, 2019 at 21:01

Bruce,

Most makers or master cutlers in the repair business use either Brass or NS for handle pins .. as shown here for securing handles, bolsters, and guards. Often, for pivot pins too. I've also seen others use std nails of the appropriate size.
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However ..I apologize.. I'd forgotten about these. 
They are machined hardened stainless steel pivot pins. I use them mostly in my leverlocks. The are 0.125" in OD & 0.050" in length. The are machined threaded over the entirety of the internal length & come with the required threaded fasteners. These may be ideal for your intended purpose. 
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Note, if you prefer that the heads of the threaded fastener are flush w/ the bolsters .. you will need to drill them to just the required dia of the heads & only to a depth that would make them flush. I have used them both exposed (they have a pretty low profile as is) ..or.. have recessed the heads just to the point of being flush.

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You may need to sand their OAL of the pins to match what is your required purpose. I've also had to sand/file the overall length of the threaded fasteners for best fit. Once I'm happy w/ the fit .. I add threadlocker to insure they do not creep out w/ time.
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I purchased them from knifekits ..however.. their link is currently down -{maintenance or some such}- or I would have attached a link.  I currently have 4 of them in stock & could part with one if you need.
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Enjoy,

Dale

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 21, 2019 at 19:29

So, what you're telling me is the pin is nickel silver or SS rod? I would think either would be too soft to resist the friction of the blade rotation.  Then again, I have never built a slip joint of any type, so am just being sure I'm doing this correctly and not misinterpreting what you are telling me.  I really don't want to do this knife over.  

The pivot pin in the knives I have disassembled does seem to be .125.  One of the blades has the pivot hole wallowed out, but it is the one that will no be reused, so not an issue.  The pivot hole on the good blade measures out at about .128.  Is this about right?  I assumed there needs to be clearance, but wasn't sure .003 is not excessive.  

All input appreciated, as usual.

Bruce

Comment by D ale on December 21, 2019 at 18:06

Bruce ... Re: Pin Stock
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Brass round stock.

Nickel Silver Round Stock.
I've personally used Jantz supplies. Not for pins ..but.. certainly other parts. I've always been pleased with their service & parts I've sourced from them.
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Rod / pin stock from another supplier that I've used in the past. I've never experienced negative experiences from them either..

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I've also used USA Knife Maker's supplies ..but.. they're currently out of 0.125" pin stock in both brass & SS ..&.. I'm pretty sure the pivot pin used in a Schrade LB7 is 0.125".
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NOTE: when you reach the stage of peening the pivot pins .. place an 0.001" ~ 0.002" shim stock around the pins (both sides) between the frames & the blade. Cut enough of a slot into the shim stock the it will "saddle" the pin during the peening process. Also, use an old piece of inner tube or a sufficient pc of rubber that exposes just the pin to be peened while covering the surrounding bolsters or other parts you wish to minimize any damage.

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I'm lucky enough to have a real honest to goodness hardware store in town that meets most of my pin stock & tubing requirements.

Enjoy,

D ale

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 21, 2019 at 16:37

D ale,

Regarding your addendum, I would do the same myself if communicating with someone I was unaware of their expertise and knowledge.  As it happens, I do have a very wide background in a lot of stuff including metal work, but am never offended when receiving information.  Besides, someone who hasn't the background might read the thread and need the extended information.  

Now on to the meat of the matter.  The link you sent was instructional.  I was trying to use the utility blade wrong and had terrible luck.  Wound up drilling and punching pins to get the two knives apart.  Copacetic at this point.  Next problem is finding pins to put it all back together.  I am assuming the pivot for the blade needs to be semi-hard at least.  Am I correct or is simple mild steel going to hold up?  I have brass rod which I think will work for everything else, but the blade is a question mark in my mind.  I also had to remove the scales from the liners,since the ones I had are much nicer than the replacements.  Are these pins available somewhere reasonably or should I just use soft brass rod for these as well?  I'm sure setting them is going to be interesting.  

The whole project has been a learning experience.  I hadn't anticipated the necessity of truing the liners before reassembly, but it was necessary.  As stated, quite a learning experience.  

Thanks again for the assistance.

Bruce

Comment by D ale on December 21, 2019 at 14:51

Bruce .. take a look @ the attached LINK. It's authored by a very respected knife maker who specializes in repair. Useful pics are included / embedded w/i the link.
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Note: I've seen 2 other's who specialize in slipjoint repair. They both now use putty knives where they've sharpened one long edge to a durable edge (45 deg or slightly more". The advantage of putty knives, (sharpened on the edge intended for use specific to shearing pins), over using the industrial razor blade approach is the thinness of the putty knife & their enhanced strength & durability. I've seen this approach by 2 people that specialize in high volume slipjoint knife repair.
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I've also noted additional industrial razor blades adjacent to one another until the pin shears, i.e. the first industrial razor blade is firmly in place & starting the shear process, the 2cnd blade is introduced along side the 1st til the shearing action is completed.

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Note: Pins have to be soft enough to be peened. They are not hardened. By the same token, they are not so soft as gold or silver. Those are only used in "art" knives & then very rarely.
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Hope things are working out for the LB7 project !

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Enjoy,

D ale

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*Addendum: I never wish to come off as condescending in any of my remarks, such as .. " carbide end mills (fancy drill bits)". I just never know a person's skill level & rather over do it @ times. If you are already proficiently aware .. please excuse !

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