Knife Sharpeners

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Who does not want a sharp knife? If it does not come from the factory that way, or if your knifemaker only put a "safety" edge on it...you want it sharp...right? Join us as we explore ways to do just that!

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Edge Pro Apex 4 - my thoughts/ramblings (you decide)

by Brad T.

May 30, 2014

Okay, I finally got some time last night to work with the kit I received on May 7th. Yeah, that is 3 weeks! I am busy. LOL

So, after watching the dvd and other technique videos, I used a low end Smith and Wesson SWA8 "Extreme Ops" folder as the test subject. It has a 3" hollow grind edge.

I started with the 400 grit stone, did 2 light passes on each side alternating sides between passes. 

I repeated that process all the way through to the 3000 grit polishing tape.

What I ended up is the sharpest knife in my possession. If the back bevel was larger, you could use it as a mirror to shave with.

I didn't get any before shots of the edges, but we all know what a factory edge looks like. I tried to get as close as possible and stay in focus, so take alook:

Smith & Wesson SWA8 folder: Polished to 3000 grit

As I could not stand to have a sub 20 dollar knife be my sharpest implement, I pulled out the Scrapyard Scrapivore (SR101 steel 62-64Rc) and my Kershaw JYDII-CB (CPM-D2 edge) and gave them the same treatment.

So, after the first knife I felt comfortable enough to do more expensive knives with confidence. In fact, it took me only 8 minutes to do the Kershaw in the above pic. 

I will have more super keen edged knives going forward...and so will some of my friends.

If you have $250 bucks to spend on a sharpening system, I would wholeheartedly recommend the Apex/4.

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  • up

    Brad T.

    You definitely need to pay attention to where your edge is on the platform when your stroke comes to the belly of the blade. I felt that keeping the bevel from the belly to the point was the hardest section to keep consistent. I learned long steady strokes with no additional pressure to the stones, made controlling the location of the edge on the platform easier to maintain. It took more strokes but attained muscle memory developed a comfortable rhythm after about 45 seconds with each stone.The lower the grit the slower the tempo. That rhythm aided in rotating the belly to the center of the platform with out losing tempo. 

    But if you do not have rhythm, (rhythm is the ability to achieve multiple graceful maneuvers at the same tempo).  Just stop your stroke and re-position your blade on the platform.

    I have a lot of soul, but little rythm, apparently just enough to use here with success.

    Jack:I believe I was using the yellow dot, 22 degrees.

    May 31, 2014

  • up

    Jack Haskins, Jr.

    You have the main thing covered already.  GO SLOW AND BE ACCURATE!  After a while the speed will develope with the rhythm.  But the speed will be accurate.  That is unless you try to speed up before the accuracy muscle memory really set in.  You'll know when you are goint goo fast.  The results will tell you.  lol  Good going.  I know what you mean about getting around the belly and tip section.  I think I'll try to dig up a thread I started on the Spyderco forum to share with you.  It deals with making what I call EDGE GUIDE BLOCKS.  They hold the blade perfectly still on the blade table.  They are only good for blades with a max length of 4" and some blades not that long. The reason I made these was I was having a problem holdiing the blade still when the spine had areas that allowed the blade to pivot on the blade guide.  Spyderco's are the best example.  When stroking the belly and tip the blade wants to pivot on the spine where the opening hole is.  My blocks keep the blade perfectly still.  They work good for some blade/edge shapes and not so well for others.  Sometimes they cause the actual angle of the stone edge be LOWER than what the EP is set to.  This creates a wider bevel around the belly to the tip.  I'll try to find it so you can check it out.  The way you have started so far is the best way for all blades though.  Gives you more freedom.

     

    Keep it up and more pictures please.

    Jack

    Brad T. said:

    You definitely need to pay attention to where your edge is on the platform when your stroke comes to the belly of the blade. I felt that keeping the bevel from the belly to the point was the hardest section to keep consistent. I learned long steady strokes with no additional pressure to the stones, made controlling the location of the edge on the platform easier to maintain. It took more strokes but attained muscle memory developed a comfortable rhythm after about 45 seconds with each stone.The lower the grit the slower the tempo. That rhythm aided in rotating the belly to the center of the platform with out losing tempo. 

    But if you do not have rhythm, (rhythm is the ability to achieve multiple graceful maneuvers at the same tempo).  Just stop your stroke and re-position your blade on the platform.

    I have a lot of soul, but little rythm, apparently just enough to use here with success.

    Jack:I believe I was using the yellow dot, 22 degrees.

    May 31, 2014

  • up

    Jack Haskins, Jr.

    Here's the thread I was talking about.  Check it out if you want.

    http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?46425-Edge-Pro-blocks...

    May 31, 2014