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Yup, its had a hard life but, does it open and close ok? If the action is good on the knife, its worth fixing back up into a knife! That's one I would save personally for a nice few evenings at the workbench. The stag appears to be just fine, just the blade needs to be re-profiled and the rust/stains removed. Definitely worth saving and not trashing by first impressions!
Mackensie,
Let me know if that is something they would do. I do not know that I have ever had one sent in to GEC for that. If the action is back re-profiling that blade is a great option also
well, there are a few other issues. Has developed a little blade wiggle and a few gaps so I thought I would call tomorrow. It couldn't hurt to ask.
I'm w/ JJ .. lots of options .. trashing is not one I'd personally consider.
Re-profiling the blade is an obvious necessity.
You may have to "drop the point" to get the tip to lie within the frame.
I'd only do that enough to get it to rest below the top edge of the frame.
From there .. I'd curve the edge up to meet the new end of the spine.
Proceed SLOWLY & keep a bucket of water handy.
You do not want to change the temper of the blade by building up heat.
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As far as the side play you mentioned .. insert a 0.001" feeler gauge between the frame & the pivot point.
Then .. use a small ball peen to GENTLY remove said play.
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IF .. GEC will replace the blade .. GREAT.
However .. that may not be the most economical approach.
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Reconditioning the knife yourself will simply cost you some time.
I can rebuild the point on that knife if you're interested. Below are Before/After photos of an Old Timer I had laying around with a point missing off one of the secondary blades. Rebuilt point looks 90% or better, although it is probably not something you'd want to use excessively. In my opinion it certainly looks better than a missing point and is fine for display purposes. I had one blade I rebuilt professionally sharpened and the new point held up to that process and actually retained a very sharp edge when they were done.
Andy, that re grind came out real well!
Thanks, Jan, but it technically isn't a re-grind....I actually added new material to the point, if that makes any sense, using carbon steel sawblades. I took some photos of the procedure, will try to include them here below.....You will notice I rebuilt the point and then ground down the extraneous material to blend it in with the rest of the blade. Metal coloring is very similar and the repair is barely noticeable. In fact, the guy who sharpened that blade never noticed it had been rebuilt. I rebuilt the point on a WW2 Camillus folder in similar fashion and carry it often. Actually carried the Camillus today and cut a 1.5" thick ribeye steak with it. Yum.
I will add that this procedure does NOT involve using excessive heat, so it shouldn't affect the temper of the blade significantly. I use a laser welder that focuses the work to a tiny pinpoint and hold the blade in my hands as I work on it, so it doesn't even get hot enough to burn my fingers. This procedure has worked great on some rusty old broken-tipped basket cases. I would love to get my hands on Mackenzie's knife above....Could put a new tip on it and make it really nice, probably not showroom perfect, but much better than grinding down the blade to match the broken tip.
Jan Carter said:
Andy, that re grind came out real well!
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