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Learning from scratch

I have been playing with fixed blade handles and scales for folding knifes that use screw construction for a year or two and am enjoying it. I would also like to learn about working on, refurbishing, etc. the traditional pinned slip joint knives. So, can anyone (in one sentence) tell me how to get started? :) Maybe an instruction book like "slip joint repair for dummies". :) Also a list of essential tools. I'm on a very limited budget so anything I start would be slow going as far as any significant tool expense. All I have now is a drill press and Dremel with most of the attachments and TONS of accessories. I also have most other hand/power tools you find in a lot of houses. Actually the only tool I may be lacking is something for installing the pins. I can picture inserting the pin and then using a hammer to smash the ends so it doesn't fall out. :) Any more accuracy than that I'm sure a tool is required. Then there are probably tools I haven't pictured that are needed. I've been getting most of my knife stuff from USAknifemaker.com and some from jantz.com up to now. Suggestions on parts/tool suppliers is also appreciated.

This knife hobby I've pictured from simple (fixed blade handle) to complicated (forging the blade and everything else). First thing I found out is even a fixed blade handle can be as simple or complicated as you want to make it. And as expensive. :( I even looked into Murray Carter's classes on making a knife. Can't swing the class cost right now not to mention the equipment I'd need to continue at home. Not to mention (again) the additional room I'd need to add to my house. lol Don't think wife will let me forge or cut and grind knife blades on the dining room table. :)

So I'm starting slow which is good. Hate to spend a bunch of money only to find I have no skill. They say there are three financial classes. Have's, have not's and have not paid for what you have's. lol Don't want to join the last group (again). lol

Any advice is appreciated. Maybe this discussion can help others also.

Jack

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Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by James Cole on August 16, 2013 at 8:31

The pin press plans are under; Books, Videos, and Plans; Tutorials and Reference: bottom of the page next to the pizza plans.

I'm sure the guy pinning bolsters in the video made it look easy.

Jack Haskins, Jr. said:

I've used that site for handle material quite a bit. In fact they are the only distributor for "kirinite" which is a new material. Great pretty cheap material for knife and pistol handles. I'll be looking there for the pin press thing. Just watched a video on youtube of a guy re-pinning a knife including the pivot using only the anvil and hammer. He made it look easy but I'm sure he's got years of experience under his belt. A few mess ups as well I'm sure. If a pin press can control the pressure better that's the way for me I think.

I don't know if the book I ordered really got ordered or not. I got the email confirmation but the money hasn't been taken yet. Maybe they don't do that until an item ships. But, since I watched one video I doubt if I need a book. Now I'm an expert. lol YEAH RIGHT! lol

James Cole said:

Jack, I just went through my knife bookmarks and re-discovered usaknifemaker.com. There is a lot of good information and tools on that site. There is a pictorial on making a pin press using a bottle jack. Also a miniture anvil for a reasonable price. There are also some knife kits available, if they come with assemble instructions you may pick up a tip or two. Jim

Permalink Reply by Jack Haskins, Jr. on August 16, 2013 at 9:18

I looked at the pin press. Looks like a pretty neat deal but for now I'll be using a hammer. I was thinking of something a bit smaller. Like a pair of vise grips. lol Might be something I'll consider later. Thanks

James Cole said:

The pin press plans are under; Books, Videos, and Plans; Tutorials and Reference: bottom of the page next to the pizza plans.

I'm sure the guy pinning bolsters in the video made it look easy.

Jack Haskins, Jr. said:

I've used that site for handle material quite a bit. In fact they are the only distributor for "kirinite" which is a new material. Great pretty cheap material for knife and pistol handles. I'll be looking there for the pin press thing. Just watched a video on youtube of a guy re-pinning a knife including the pivot using only the anvil and hammer. He made it look easy but I'm sure he's got years of experience under his belt. A few mess ups as well I'm sure. If a pin press can control the pressure better that's the way for me I think.

I don't know if the book I ordered really got ordered or not. I got the email confirmation but the money hasn't been taken yet. Maybe they don't do that until an item ships. But, since I watched one video I doubt if I need a book. Now I'm an expert. lol YEAH RIGHT! lol

James Cole said:

Jack, I just went through my knife bookmarks and re-discovered usaknifemaker.com. There is a lot of good information and tools on that site. There is a pictorial on making a pin press using a bottle jack. Also a miniture anvil for a reasonable price. There are also some knife kits available, if they come with assemble instructions you may pick up a tip or two. Jim

Permalink Reply by James Cole on August 16, 2013 at 9:39

Maybe you can think up a method using a "C" clamp.

Permalink Reply by Jack Haskins, Jr. on August 19, 2013 at 16:31

James, I ordered the book also and it came today. I've gone through it quickly and I have to say it has very little on what I was expecting. On the other hand it has more stuff that I appreciate than I knew I wanted to know. It may be the best FIRST book to get on knife repair basics. This little book covered traditional pocket knives, locking folders, fixed blades, blade edching and some other stuff.

The first section covered the tools that are needed or at least highly recommended. There are several I don't have. I may have to buy some but I think I can rig some to get started.

One thing I noticed while glancing is the pin holes are countersunk so there is room for the peened head of a bin to expand ON TOP of the bolster. when it is filed smooth it is still larger in diameter than the pin hole. I didn't know this was done. In fact I think Queen's work horse series knives advertise leaving the pins higher than the bolster to be stronger keeping the handle from spreading due to side force. The countersunk bolster does the same thing I believe just may not be as strong.

Seems to be a good book for starting. I'm sure there are tips and tricks people have and are in other books but this one is a very basic "jack of all knives" book it seems.

James Cole said:

I just found and ordered this book. It's a reprint, but I seem to remember the author.

http://www.knifeworld.com/kniferepair.html

Permalink Reply by Steve Hanner on October 3, 2013 at 12:10

Well here is an old knife, possibly an Imperial. Only marked with USA on the tang so who knows. Bought it with the scales falling off. They were yellow.As you can see the scales kind of popped off and are metal. There it is laying on one side.

Its just a metal scale with a tab. The tab inserts into an opening and from there it hangs on for dear life.

You can kind of see it there. Well my question is I can leave metal scales on..its obviously and old knife. it won't know the difference or ....? Not sure how to get color back on and even if you took off metal scales you have these tabs which protrude from the knife. Of course I could grind those off....

Permalink Reply by Jan Carter on October 3, 2013 at 20:19

My guess is going to be that the color inserts were heated into shape and place at the time it was made. Just not sure you could reproduce that now, nor what material you would use to do it with

Permalink Reply by Steve Hanner on October 3, 2013 at 20:31

Now that you mention it , yes almost looks that way.... that thin piece of film was just kid of applied on. When you get those metal scales off with the exception of those tabs you have a flat surface...except for the tabs.

Permalink Reply by Steve Hanner on October 5, 2013 at 9:37

Really debating on a grind.. I will have another look today and rethink it all. Still feeling dangerously creative?

Permalink Reply by Jack Haskins, Jr. on October 5, 2013 at 11:13

I'm wondering what you mean by "grind". When I think of grind I'm thinking about the shape of the entire blade. It could be full-flat-grind, hollow, etc. Is that what you are thinking about? Something else you may be thinking about is the edge angle that you create when sharpening the knife. So, when you said "grind" what were you meaning? I just want to make sure we are using terms the same way so we can all communicate easier.

Jack

Steve Hanner said:

Really debating on a grind.. I will have another look today and rethink it all. Still feeling dangerously creative?

Permalink Reply by Brad T. on October 5, 2013 at 12:01

Steve,

Dangerously creative is the way to go.

As for the option of putting color back on the scales? Have you thought of doing a mural in Acrylic paint and sealing it afterwards, of course you may want to frame when your done.

Or...an industrial/automotive paint with a layer of clear coat.

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on October 5, 2013 at 13:36

Steve,

I'm w/ Brad on this one .. dangerously creative is the way to go !!!

You could tap those 2 unused holes in the frame & use them to mount scale material !?!

The mural sounds interesting.

One could always etch something onto the steel shell itself.

Automotive paint sounds like a pretty good idea.

Do be careful .. those little tabs .. they break easy .. rendering the entire shell unusable.

Permalink Reply by Steve Hanner on October 5, 2013 at 13:36

First off the knife is basically a no name knife and I thought a good one to have fun with so its not like I am poetentially wrecking a Randal folder..

OK that said look at the picture...the "yellow skin" was applied to 2 metal scales that had tabs on either end. They fitted into 2 spots on the knife it self and kind of folded in, where they could hang on for ever.

When you take those metal scales off you have these two "tab holders" otherwise you would have a flush surface.

When I talk about "grinding" I am talking about removing those two tab holders. I think I would be left with a flush surface that I could add a scales. Would be no bolsters just plain.

So that's where my thinking is. Here is why I don't want to just paint, to answer your question Brad. Although I like the idea you would be left with a very small spacing between the metal scale and the knife its self. It was previously filled with that plastic that had been wrapped over.

If you need some other pics just ask. Its on my workbench now(sort of taunting me). Hope that is clearer?