Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Terry Waldele on May 22, 2011 at 19:56

Thanks, Hal.  What do you mean by "plenty of wax on cuts"?

Halicon said:

I would be very cautious about sanding and cutting completely fresh lumber. I always dry my harvested wood for at least a year before I use it, I mostly use high-figure wood and burls however (with plenty of wax on cuts) so you can probably get to work on a staff-sized limb much faster.

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Permalink Reply by Terry Waldele on May 22, 2011 at 20:03

Robert, I will be de-barking the staffs, anyway, so I'll do that right away to speed up the drying process.

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Permalink Reply by Jan Carter on May 23, 2011 at 18:27

Terry,

I like the cut of your jib....come along a problem, followed by a solution.  Your make it happen attitude is wonderful...Cant wait to see V2...The new and improved TW walking staff. 

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Permalink Reply by Terry Waldele on May 23, 2011 at 20:57

Thanks, Jan.  My OCD won't let me stop at "good enough."  :)

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In MemoriamPermalink Reply by Robert Burris on May 24, 2011 at 18:30

 

Stephen and Terry, this is a quick picture of a staff I'm working on, I don't have time to take a good picture. This will give you an idea of what I'm working on.

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Permalink Reply by Terry Waldele on May 25, 2011 at 2:01

Looking good!  Please be sure to show us the finished product.

Robert Burris said:

 

Stephen and Terry, this is a quick picture of a staff I'm working on, I don't have time to take a good picture. This will give you an idea of what I'm working on.

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Permalink Reply by Terry Waldele on May 25, 2011 at 2:07

Jan,

Just made a last minute improvement on V1:  I was having trouble getting the crutch tips off each end to access the spear point and the survival tube, so I cut/ground some vertical grooves around the perimeters of both crutch tips so I would have a better grip when I twisted them off.  Now, I think V1 is actually done and ready for my first fishing hike!

Jan Carter said:

Terry,

I like the cut of your jib....come along a problem, followed by a solution.  Your make it happen attitude is wonderful...Cant wait to see V2...The new and improved TW walking staff. 

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Permalink Reply by Halicon on May 25, 2011 at 7:15

Terry, I mostly use highly figured wood or burls and as such they have a tendency to crack or warp during drying. So if I had to cut through any knots which is often the case with limbing for a shaft, or the wood is of high figure I will wax the cut portion and let the wood dry for a year roughly, remove the wax prior to shaping it and then re-whet it a little to match the outer surface's dryness, put on wax again on crucial spots and and let it dry for a month or two and after that I'll go to work with it.

 

Terry Waldele said:

Thanks, Hal.  What do you mean by "plenty of wax on cuts"?

Halicon said:

I would be very cautious about sanding and cutting completely fresh lumber. I always dry my harvested wood for at least a year before I use it, I mostly use high-figure wood and burls however (with plenty of wax on cuts) so you can probably get to work on a staff-sized limb much faster.

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In MemoriamPermalink Reply by Robert Burris on May 25, 2011 at 16:37

Terry, The staffs I make are figured by nature. I look many hours in the woods for a small vine wrapped tortured little trees. I have just started to do alot of cutting to make them more pleaseing.

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Permalink Reply by Jan Carter on May 25, 2011 at 17:58

Terry,

Be careful out there but we will worry less on your next trip knowing you have your staff.  Fishing this weekend?

 

Robert,

That is a beauty.  You must look for quiet some time to find those vine wrapped brush.

 

Hal,

Wow, you really are a patient man.  I admire that you take the time to think it through and let the wood dry in a manner that works for you

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Permalink Reply by Terry Waldele on May 25, 2011 at 18:30

Hal, is the wax necessary because the cut areas or highly figured areas are more likely to crack if not waxed?

Halicon said:

Terry, I mostly use highly figured wood or burls and as such they have a tendency to crack or warp during drying. So if I had to cut through any knots which is often the case with limbing for a shaft, or the wood is of high figure I will wax the cut portion and let the wood dry for a year roughly, remove the wax prior to shaping it and then re-whet it a little to match the outer surface's dryness, put on wax again on crucial spots and and let it dry for a month or two and after that I'll go to work with it.

 

Terry Waldele said:

Thanks, Hal.  What do you mean by "plenty of wax on cuts"?

Halicon said:

I would be very cautious about sanding and cutting completely fresh lumber. I always dry my harvested wood for at least a year before I use it, I mostly use high-figure wood and burls however (with plenty of wax on cuts) so you can probably get to work on a staff-sized limb much faster.

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Permalink Reply by Terry Waldele on May 25, 2011 at 18:40

Jan, I guess I'm a fair weather fisherman, and the weather in Oregon has been extremely wet this year, so I will have to check the weather forecast day by day.  On the other hand, maybe I need to incorporate an umbrella into my next hiking staff.  ; ) 

Jan Carter said:

Terry,

Be careful out there but we will worry less on your next trip knowing you have your staff.  Fishing this weekend?

 

Robert,

That is a beauty.  You must look for quiet some time to find those vine wrapped brush.

 

Hal,

Wow, you really are a patient man.  I admire that you take the time to think it through and let the wood dry in a manner that works for you

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