The online community of knife collectors, A Knife Family Forged in Steel
I have a question? For years now I've admired the sheer beauty of the Randall Trout & Bird Knife, Model 8. Lately I've seen the same knife for sale advertised as the Model 8-4. What is the difference, if any?
The other Randall I love is the Model 5 Small Camp & Trail Knife. Looks similar except for the blade size & straight shape.
I've always felt that Randall's were out of my league but I was looking at a catalog from 2003 when they were going for $215.00. Sure wish I had bought it back then.
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Don-I must say, that Model 27 "Trailblazer" is a beautiful knife. Stainless steel is an option. Mine is SS and living in a climate like FL, I think it's worth having.
Whether you go ahead and use it has got to be your decission. Are you buying it for an investment? Or, are you an old goat like me who figures what am I saving it for? I wanna play with my toys and I can still be carefull and treat them with respect.
Back in the stoneage, when I was a young caveman, I owned an Olds 442, stick, 400 c.i. with factory tri-power (3 deuces) which was very rare. I literally fell in love with it. Washed it every day. Changed the oil every 1000 miles & tuned it every 2000 but I still used it mainly for street racing & generally showing off. Blew the synchros power shifting and wrecked one gear box. Almost had heart failure if some joker banged his door against. Still, I had me one helluva time & I don't regret it. Too many other guys had high performance cars that they only drove in beautiful weather. Real "Trailer Queens", some of them. Most of the time they drove "Beaters"-crummy, cheap, beat up cars that if they got scratched or dented they didn't care while their prize possesion mainly sat in their garage except on special occaisions.
Today, I don't want a truck or car that's so perfect I become obsessed with it. I take care of my '98 F-150 4x4 and it still looks good but I don't worry about. After all, it's just a truck.
I don't want to influence your thinking but we only go around once. Do what you think is right.
Don & Robert-thank you for the advice on sharpening. I'll check out that Edge Pro. Also Don, what's your opinion on sharpening stones? Oil Washita, Diamond, Japanese water stones? Usually I stick with basics but I try to be open minded. I was pretty impressed with the edge on my Randall Model 5-sharper than any of my factory made blades? Still they all get dulled from use & I like having a keen edge on my cutlery, so the more I can learn ,the better. Not sure I'd want to shave with it though? Might slip and cut my throat? That would be a fitting demise for a knife nut, I reckon?
Robert-I'm also gonna check out the knife sharpening group and see what I can learn from them? Thanks.
By the way, my 2003 Randall catalog describes their Model 26 as the "Pathfinder" 4" drop point blade of 3/16"th stock -stag handle. Almost looks like we're all reading from the same page with slight minor variations? They are all beautiful knives.
Did you know that the Model 8 "Trout & Bird Knife" has a historical note: Francis G. Powers, U-2 pilot, was carrying a Model 8 when he was shot down over Russia in May 1960?
I had added this to the wrong Randall knife thread and don't know how to delete the other one.
Treeman and M.L. Knives while both being excellent forge(ry)(s) knifemakers, they cater, primarily to a different crowd then what Randall does—They’re going for the “Primitive” (forged from a file look) for the likes of re-enactors at Rendezvous or at historic battle sites with groups like the AMM, SASS/CAS or The BAR or Napoleonic Societies.
M.L. Knives states so right on his sight.
“The finest Custom hand forged hand crafted knives for the Hunter, Fisherman, Re-enactment of early America, General Outdoors person, woodsman all around kitchen use, Buck skinner, Cowboy, Mountain man.. And all good folk!”
and you can see it in the finished pieces of the influence that of William Scagle has on Jim Behring’s Treeman Knives.
You could also try Ruana Knives
http://www.ruanaknives.com/
especially their S/H - Steelhead Knife Blade: 3 1⁄2”, 1/8” stock. Handle: 4 1⁄2”. $240 and is a beautiful little knife…I’ve used a few of them and while not the greatest fillet knife you can do it and I’ve also used it as a caper on caribou and to skin out a beaver…Great Little knife!
I’ve also used their 5 AD-Drop Point Sticker—Blade: 4”, 1/8” stock. Handle: 4 1⁄2”.$280 and it’s a brute of a knife but handles so nicely.
We’ve had a few others of theirs up to the lodge—10B, 6BD, 95MP, 95AD (just a larger 5AD version) and I think a 27AC and I’ve handled a few of their Bowies at various events over the years 29A, 30A and the fabulous 35B, their standard 9½” Bowie…Really, really good maker of very tough knives.
For some really nice, custom work—the 2¾” Model #V-7 Trout & Bird from Rob Charlton of Damascus USA is very hard to beat especially when it sells for about $175.00 w/Buffalo Horm/Micarta scales or now with Paracord…Small, light, strong back and with a very precise blade.
http://damascususa.us/
Also check out his two Capstick models V-6 & V-12, the two versions of W.F. Moran V-10s, the V-2 Hunter/Camper and beautiful V-80 Whitetail (designed by one of the top female cutlers, Carol Gurganus.), the so well thought out V-62 Gen Yeager and V-9 “JRS”, and the V-3 Teensy which I’ve never handled but told was excellent for squirrels…I love the V-85 “Chute”
DAMASCUS USA V-7 Bird & Trou $175
The two knives I use the most are M.L. and Treeman knives, they perform well under any circumstances. I also own a Randall model #7 that I use and it also performs very well. They are all hammer forged non stainless steel knives, that I think cannot be appreciated unless one buys and uses them.
Robert Burris said:The two knives I use the most are M.L. and Treeman knives, they perform well under any circumstances. I also own a Randall model #7 that I use and it also performs very well. They are all hammer forged non stainless steel knives, that I think cannot be appreciated unless one buys and uses them.
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