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KnifeMaker Comment by Stefan Diedericks on May 8, 2014 at 11:31

Some of my recent knives:

Hunter model: HUN05
Blade: 12C27
Handle: Palm

Hunter model: HUN06
Blade: 12C27
Handle: Camel Thorn Wood

Hunter model: HUN02
Blade: 12C27
Spacer: Warthog Tusk
Handle: Iron Wood

Hunter model: HUN04
Blade: 12C27
Handle: Iron Wood

Biltong knife model: BIL02
Blade: 12C27
Handle: Red Bush Willow

Biltong knife model: BIL02
Blade: 12C27
Handle: Iron Wood

Comment by Jan Carter on March 23, 2014 at 18:47

KnifeMaker Comment by Carl Rechsteiner on January 9, 2014 at 5:26

Stef, excellent pointers on the use of a Dremel. Most under rated tool in the shop. Real workhorse in the right hands. Been using them all my life (so far). Even have the original #1 and #2 models, still run. I've probably worn out twenty or more over the years as the plastic ones don't last as long. I use a brass bar instead of steel for a safety stop (just cause it was handy, mostly).

Peter, If you ever meet someone that's spent time in my shop they'll tell you quickly the that only waste that leaves my shop goes out in a shop vac. Forging allows me to utilize the maximum amount from a piece of steel. I do very little grinding and that's mostly profiling and handle finish.

KnifeMaker Comment by Stefan Diedericks on January 8, 2014 at 23:09

 

Peter,

If you look at my bolster, the outer section of the "V" was done with a Dremer with a 3mm tungsten ball point. I use, what can be described as a pecking motion to make the indentations.

A couple of "rules" with this:

1) Once you start, don't turn the knife/bolster. Keep working from the same side. If you turn it, you will end up with "blotches" as the light reflects of your stippling.

2) Depending on the rotational direction of your Dremel, (should be clockwise from the handle side) be careful when you work on the right side edge of the bolster. It will tend to want to bite on the edge and roll over. I use a steel block as a stopper that I hold up against the edge.

3) I like the finish to be random, so I move the tool in small circles, which overlap and then just keep filling up the gaps. You can also make the cut in straight rows for a different finish. Experiment on a scrap piece.

4) Finally plan before you start!! Mark the bolster to make sure you know where you want to work.

The Inner part of the "V" on my bolster was sand blasted with some coarse river sand. Here you can also get different finishes, depending on the blasting medium you use.

HAVE FUN!!

Comment by peter force on January 8, 2014 at 8:04

STEFAN -awesome blade all the way around bro! ..i was wondering.. the work ont he bolsters{stippling}.. i have heard it called a few thigns.. but how is it done.. its looks like you could sinmply just use a dril press and then buff it up.. am i wrong?- thanx bro!.. i dont make knives but when i do take em apart i like to learn to add the basic things and i worked a barlow bolster that way-with a smooth cigar band i guess you could call it kinda twistin down the side..it looked fine-a first time job easy.but looked ok.--- .all i used was a DREM and hand rubbed afterward for a bit.

. NOOT! you can do it bro! !!!

CARl thanx for the thing with the stell.i didnt think of how much it would save.. .. hey hope you are all well..

with the cold comes time for me and that when i start ripping mor old knives apart.so i may pop in here more if ya guys dont mind.-thanx!

KnifeMaker Comment by Carl Rechsteiner on January 8, 2014 at 4:56

Tapering a tang is pretty simple for us that forge our blades. Actually saves a lot of steel in the long run. Another thing the taper reduction does is move the balance of the knife forward, allowing you to use heavier/denser handle material and still get a reasonably light knife with good balance. More important if you are a heavy user or if you like a lighter knife.

Stef, my neighbor's dog will come over if I'm working olive. He's got an Italian heart and would probably bring a bottle of cheap red wine if he could trade out his biscuits.

KnifeMaker Comment by Stefan Diedericks on January 8, 2014 at 1:03

Carl, I must agree on the Olive (or Wild Olive. not sure if it's the same). I love the smell. will grind some just for that reason.

Alexarder, thanks for the comment. Taper tangs do require a bit more effort and can be tricky. If you work with 3mm steel it is often not necessary, but it dose look good, and you will be amazed at what a difference it makes to the overall weight of your knife. Try it, and give me a shout if you need some guidance.

KnifeMaker Comment by Carl Rechsteiner on January 7, 2014 at 5:26

Lots of good "handle" woods are like that. No dust is good for the lungs, but some of these woods can really mess with you and even be adsorbed through the pores in the skin. Some are worse than poison ivy. I have to be really careful with the rosewoods and cocabola.

Other oily woods I like to use are lignum vitae, osage, olive, etc. Olive is a great grind just for the smell.

Comment by Alexander Noot on January 7, 2014 at 2:16

You make a nice knife Stefan. I've gotta try my hand at tapered tangs sometime. I've wanted to try that for ages.

KnifeMaker Comment by Stefan Diedericks on January 7, 2014 at 1:28

 

Thanks for the comments.

Carl,

Tamboti is a bit of a nightmare. Firstly the dust and fumes will mess with your digestive system, so you need to wear a good respirator or have a good extraction system. It's a vary oily wood, and tends to block up everything, from your bandsaw blade to a 36 grit belt.

So why use it...? Well it gives a really nice finish.

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