Knife Repair, Modification, Restoration & Improvement

198 members

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This group is hosted by D ale, for knife enthusiasts who are interested in repairing, modifiying, restoring or improving knives, including fixed blades, folders and automatics of all types.

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  • Jake

    Good video, personally I just could put a zip tie o a knife it just throws the good looks for me.

    Apr 30, 2010

  • Terry Waldele

    Jake, really? You don't think the zip tie is an improvement? ;-) Maybe you have to be someone like me who is royally turned off by the Spidey hole blade opener. Actually, I once converted the main blade of a slip joint folder with a nail nick to a Spidey hole type opener. by grinding the nail nick all the way through the blade into an oval-shaped hole. It didn't work. Maybe the hole wasn't big enough. Anyway, I ended up putting a thumb stud at one end of the oval hole, and that worked fine. NOT PRETTY, BUT VERY FUNCTIONAL. ;-) (I couldn't resist. My bad.)

    Apr 30, 2010

  • J.J. Smith III

    Terry,
    Not a tactical person, myself, but I can say that the spidy hole is right ugly, but that;s Spiderco. IMHO.
    However, a mod to an EDC does not necessarily have to be pretty, as long as it works. Some of my wharnie mods are a mite rough looking, but they do the job that I intended them to do.

    May 1, 2010

  • Terry Waldele

    J.J.,
    I agree with you that an EDC does not necessarily have to be pretty. After all, it's going to get a little beat up if you use it much, anyway. On the other side of the coin, though, "beauty is in the eye of the beholder", and IMHO style counts big time. To me, the EDC's finish, rough or not, is not nearly as important as its overall style/lines. Maybe I'm too much of a traditionalist, though.

    May 1, 2010


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    I tried this ..

    .. I was very happy w/ this mod .. very ergonomic ..

    .. radiused a few surfaces ..

    .. I could never understand the spydie hump .. the idea's OK .. just .. blend it in a bit ..

    .. another one from the chinamen .. love these take apart knives .. I was able to completely remove the blade for "machining by dremel" ..

    May 1, 2010


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    Re: JJ's .. "it doesn't have to be pretty"

    Look @ what happened to those fle mkt auto's .. wasn't pretty .. but, I learned a bunch !!

    May 1, 2010


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    .. went for functionality .. my thumb would just slide into the slot ..

    .. w/o the "spydie hump" ..

    May 1, 2010


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    I thought the lines flowed too ...

    .. again .. something to be said for those inexpensive imports .. cost effective prototyping platforms ..

    May 1, 2010


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    I love the diversity of this site .. one gentleman post's another's approach to "making it functional" .. another replies "Oh, man .. UGLY" .. yet another "I like function" .. yet another "I tried this" ...

    !!!!!!!! Love this place !!!!!!!!!

    May 1, 2010

  • J.J. Smith III

    Got nothing against a "pretty" knife. All I was getting at, in my experiance in modifying blades the nail nick is the first to suffer. A few of mine I had to cut another to be able to open them. Others don't have one at all.

    (Funny that all this is about methods of opening a knife.)

    May 1, 2010


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    May 1, 2010


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    .. just push the button ..

    May 1, 2010


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    Everybody loves a pretty face .. .. .. .. ..

    Yup .. nail nick is usually the first to go .. I've tried w/ a dremel & those little 1" cut-off wheels .. takes a steady hand .. how do you cut a new one ?? what method ??

    May 1, 2010

  • Chris Taylor (CTAYLORMAN)

    I have always been interested in knife repair/restoration but just havent jumped in and tried. I would like to know how to basically restore a finish to a knife blade that has some slight pitting and spots etc. I have purchased a couple books but the way they explain it you have to have a fully functioning shop with grinders, lathes, drill presses etc...Surely there is a simpler way of bringing that "shine" back to a knife blade. Ive seen many knives that have been "cleaned up". Ive been told dremels will do the job and I have also been told dremels will burn up the blade because of their speed. Any help would be appreciated. Look forward to learning something from joining this group.

    May 1, 2010

  • Terry Waldele

    Dale, beautiful job on the modification of the spidey opener! I agree, your modification made the beast into a beauty.

    May 2, 2010

  • Terry Waldele

    Chris, my shop is 'bare bones" essentials, so my method of refinishing a blade is to sand out the pits with progressively finer grit sandpaper on a sanding block. Using the sanding block ensures that the surface is sanded flat and true. I get all the pits and scratches out of the blade and "polishing" it with metal-sanding sandpaper, finishing up with say 400 or 600 grit metal sandpaper. Then, I put a buffing wheel in my drill and buff the blade with buffing compound. (I have my drill mounted in a drill clamp that attaches to my workbench, and the drill has a lock on the trigger so both of my hands are free to hold the knife or blade.) More advanced iKCers probably have some better suggestions, though.

    May 2, 2010


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    JJ certainly has a valid point .. most of my modifications fall under research & development .. a little R&D before implementing the change into a higher quality EDC .. taint pretty !!

    Terry also has a valid point .. everybody loves a pretty face !!

    Form .. fit .. function.

    This mod thing I do .. part of it stems from an inate curiosity ...... I'd also like to think this "practice/R&D" allows me to get a more "finished" look when implementing into a higher quality knife ..

    also .. honing those skills for when I build my first knife .. completely of my own manufacture !!!!!!!!!!

    May 2, 2010

  • Daniel Howland

    I like the look, nice transformation

    May 2, 2010

  • J.J. Smith III

    For my nail nick repairs I use the 1" cutting wheel and a stone wheel.

    May 2, 2010


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    @ Chris .. you'll trash it from a collector’s standpoint .. that being said .. there are some pretty creative people on here .. doing a bang up job on their polishing .. ??? i think ??? bare minimum might be a 3/8 drill, a cloth wheel, & polishing compound .. try searching iKC by "polish".. some of the members have videos posted .. Jeff @ CJS .. Kyley Harris @ CKC.. also, check Youtube ..

    May 2, 2010


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    @ JJ .. you use a fixture of any kind ??

    I cut the groove in that spydie wannabee w/ the 1" cut-off wheel .. freehand .. gotta be a better way !!

    May 2, 2010

  • J.J. Smith III

    No fixture. I just make another nail nick. Some of the lockbacks that I've done can be opened easily enough without a pull. A couple can be opened easier by releasing the locking mechanism. Not trying to make a one hand opener, just a different carver.

    May 2, 2010


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    .. I've tried a couple of just nail nicks .. was extending one .. making another one from scratch ..

    !! should have done them before the coffee !!

    May 3, 2010

  • J.J. Smith III

    This was my first attempt at a nail nick. Not really a nick but a place to grab, with my thumb and index finger, on both sides of the blade.
    Like I said, not pretty, but functional.

    May 4, 2010

  • J.J. Smith III

    A slightly cleaner job on a Steel Warrior lockback.

    May 4, 2010

  • J.J. Smith III

    Diamond wheels will make a simple, yet narrow, nail nick. I use these to cut the initial location for a new nick and to also make a shallow, existing, nick a bit deeper.

    Additional flairing can be made with an aluminum oxide stone.

    May 4, 2010


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    .. got the lower one .. top one is new though .. been using the cut-off wheels ..

    .. my prob .. should do a better set up .. something to rest/steady the dremel up against.. knife's already in a vise .. and, skip the coffee

    that top one looks like it might be a bit more durable/robust than the cut-off wheels .. any mis-alignment on those .. you better have the safety glasses

    May 4, 2010


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    .. the short blade length .. does it yield better control ??
    .. I know it's typical of whittling tools .. just, not sure why !!

    May 4, 2010

  • J.J. Smith III

    I actually use the ones from Harbor Freight.
    Dremel costs about $9.00 while at Harbor Freight I get 5 for $6.00, (but they go on sale for $4.00 frequently). Never had an alignment problem with these.
    Don't know how long a Dremel wheel would last but I can generally cut down 2 -3 blades before I have to replace it.
    Use them also for cutting coconuts...

    May 4, 2010

  • J.J. Smith III

    Only use that much blade when I carve the pits. Really like the wharncliffe blade design for the built in strength. The point is surprisingly strong from the way it is in line with the entire spine of the blade.

    May 4, 2010


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    .. alignment prob ..

    once I get a cut started .. keeping the wheel in alignment with what groove is already cut is critical .. more so w/ an actual cut-off operation .. but, I introduce any 'twist" whatsoever into the wheel .. it flies apart …..

    I know .. go figure .. that's why I asked about any fixture & commented on steadying the dremel .. those cut-off wheels are fragile little things .. 'course @ 20K+ rpm's ......

    Have got a Grizzly reasonably close .. well, in MO anyway .. need to re-check what they have for dremel like accessories .. hate paying for the name !!!

    May 4, 2010


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    .. also used to cut coconut ..

    !! .. love the diversity .. !!

    May 4, 2010


  • KnifeMaker

    CaptJeff Saylor

    hey guys! you got some great info on here! i just had to join!

    May 4, 2010

  • Terry Waldele

    That Dremel tool control issue is one that really bugs me! Even when I lay off the coffee for awhile, my hands are just too shaky to do fine work (like nail nicks) without risking making a mess of it. One trick painters use to steady their hands for fine work is to support their painting hand with a wooden rod with a rubber tip on it held against the canvas with the other hand when they apply brush to canvas. Could we translate that trick into some kind of simple support for a Dremel tool? I surfed the web to find those paintering sticks, which are called Mahl sticks, and found a product that looks very promising. It's called the "EZ Rest Painting Handrest" and it's sold by Jerry's Artarama. Here's a link to it.

    May 4, 2010

  • Terry Waldele

    Well, it happened again. The link I tried to attach to my previous comment about my controlling the Dremel tool while doing fine work (like a nail nick) didn't get attached. Here it is in a different form (without using the weblink button on the comment form, which doesn't seem to work):
    http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discount-art-supplies/Painting-Suppli...

    May 4, 2010

  • J.J. Smith III

    I can see where everyone is concerned about screwing up knives with a Dremel. I looked at the easy rest and didn't think that addressed the issue.
    Dremel has 2 things that may help.
    1 - 2500-01 Multi-Vise, lets you clamp your project so you can concentrate on using the tool, or ,
    2 - Dremel Work station, Holds your Dremal steady while freeing up both hands..

    May 5, 2010

  • Terry Waldele

    I've got to have a Dremel Work station! Thanks, J.J.

    May 5, 2010

  • Terry Waldele

    J.J., now that I've said I want a Dremel Work Station, how do you use it to support your Dremel tool while you're making a nail nick?

    May 5, 2010

  • J.J. Smith III

    LOL,
    My right hand.

    Now, wanna know what I use to support the knife?
    You guessed it,
    My left.

    Though when(IF) I ever get my shop built, I want one of the Work Stations also.

    May 5, 2010


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    JJ .. would you snap (with the other hand) a pic of that set-up ?!?!

    May 5, 2010

  • J.J. Smith III

    ?????HUH?????

    May 5, 2010

  • Jake

    I clamp my dremel in a my vise if I'm not using it free hand. Same with my drill when using the polishing wheels.

    May 5, 2010


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    JJ .. need a 3rd hand ???

    I usually clamp the knife w/ a vise or equiv .. then, hold the dremel in my right while resting the heel of R hand in palm of left hand .. or .. some combination of a 2 hand hold .. looking for a better secure easier way ..

    yrs ago .. bought one of those spring loaded, clamp the dremel tool in, drill press thingies .. was about $15 in early 80's .. DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME OR MONEY !!!!

    That workstation JJ posted looked functional & useful !!

    May 5, 2010

  • J.J. Smith III

    I must!!!

    Those were the only items from Dremel that fit the requirements.
    Think that the Work Station is a better all around piece of equipment, drill press, angeled tool holder, flex-shaft stand even a small bit holder. At about $35.00 a good deal too.

    May 5, 2010


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    $ 35 .. that is a good deal ..

    The $15 POS was something I bought for drilling ckt bds back in college .. it was truely a pc of .. wk .... the clearance @ the "guide pins" was sloppy lg .. difficult drilling the same hole twice .. small base .. had to be clamped to a wk surface .. held the dremel body V only ..

    The posted wkstation is certainly higher quality !! It appears to have addressed the issues I experienced.

    The flex shaft , ability to position dremel @ H, V, & in between, plus drill press merits the $35. ......imo........

    May 5, 2010

  • Jake

    Beware, I looked at those a while back and found that there were some mixed reviews. Particularly in the precision of the drill press.

    May 5, 2010

  • Terry Waldele

    Hey, guys, you know the problem I had with matching pin sizes to the holes in pocket knife parts? I just remembered that our local hobby shop has a variety of pin sizes in stainless steel, but I had passed them up and ordered nickel silver pins instead. Just for curiousity's sake, have any of you used stailess steel pins to replace the old ones on a multi-blade pocket knife? I shied away from them because they are so much harder than NS and would generate a lot more heat in grinding them or sanding them, which could damage the scales. What has been your experience with SS pins, if any?

    May 7, 2010


  • In Memoriam

    D ale

    Terry .. you could file them by hand .. wouldn't be restored in a vintage sense .. but, certainly repaired .. might take another look @ the "repinning a bali-song" tutorial .. bolster your confidence ..

    May 7, 2010

  • Daniel Howland

    I think I can help, although I have never used stainless for rivots, I believe the man to ask would be Todd Davison, he is a member here and created the Knife Makers Group. He has certainly pounded more rivots than I will in a lifetime. http://www.iknifecollector.com/profile/TADAVISON

    May 7, 2010

  • Terry Waldele

    Daniel and Dale, thanks so much for your suggestions. I will defiinitely follow up on them, and I really appreciate the help.

    May 8, 2010