Very nice result .. I need to do dome further research !!

Thank you for posting this Derek !!!!!!

Potassium perchlorate .. where'd you source it ???

potassium permanganate .... Condy's Crystals 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potassium_permanganate

I found mine on Ebay Australia ... depends on the laws etc in the USA   ... sometimes Vets have it sometimes Chemists ... You don't need much I got 150 gms which I reckon will see me through the next 20 years.

I can't say that this gives as good a result as Derek's does but. When I lived in Scotland and found red deer antlers that had been cast and bleached I used wood dye to restore the colour to the antlers and finished them off with a light sanding over the high spots . Seemed to come out okay and then I made priests for trout fishing and key fobs for a local hotel .

Hi John, like you I experimented with a couple of things... at the top of my pic below you can see a small yellowed area on the antler - that was a Leather dye called Whisky which is a muddy brown but it turned the Antler yellow. (?)

I understand the Potassium permanganate is not dying the antler/bone as such it causes a chemical reaction oxidation - like rust on steel. Or bluing on a rifle barrel.

When it was done the area was totally brown, I scratched across it with the edge of a steel rule to create a few high whiter spots then a rub with fine steel wool gave the final result.

This started life as a Blade Blank so as I didn't make it I will slot it in here under Knife "Improvement". Firstly the blank had some tacky looking file work on the top which I promptly removed ... used a big block of bronze for the guard .... and some Jarrah for the Handle.

More pics to come as I progress. (Photo file sizes have been reduced to save your download.) 

Mostly this has been a LOT of sanding filing and endless test fit-ups

I know the "endless test fit-ups.

Just part of the procedure.

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Is that the "wooden vise thingie" you made ??
Nice job !!

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They are Handy !!!

well since I am not a file work person, I agree with the "improvement"!  Blanks are how Donnie started, there is nothing wrong with it.  I do not feel there is anything wrong with selling a knife from a blank as long as the buyer knows.  They tend to like to know where the blank came from

Thanks Jan, I always wanted a nice Bowie but the usual story with me. Champagne tastes and a beer budget ... so this was my way of getting one - just how I wanted it - without too much expense & a bit of fun along the way.

Dale yep that is the little wooden vice "thingie" very handy it is too.

looking good Derek. 

Pottering with another TL 29 refurbishment project. This time going with bone (Bovine) for the handle scales... a first for me...

In the bottom of this pic an experiment with coloring the bone with Condy's Crystals

At the test fit-up stage with this project...

Wow! That looks incredible, Derek! Good show, mate!

It is really beginning to come together!

Got "Side Tracked" (it happens a lot)

Fella asked me if I could put some Micarta handle scales on a Victorinox Solo

I like a challenge soooo....  (All pics are reduced file size) 

Nice job, Derek !!
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Why'd the guy want micarta .

I mean

What's wrong with the originals ??

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Not ours to ask.

:)

 D ale .... why?  You are correct I didn't ask I guess he just has a 'thing' for micarta.

I'm actually asking why I said yes right now... I am a bit apprehensive that this last little bit of the build will test my skills. I don't do this for money ... just for the challenge.

Derek

I .. like you .. don't do it for the money.

I do it for the knowledge I gain in the process.

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I find something very self rewarding when I succeed

i.e. when the final result is .. nice.

and

I learn something EVERY time.

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I add just a lil bit more to my skill set.

That is my reward for doing the projects ... some of which I've posted here.

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I can relate

Derek, great work, inspiring, i need to make time to get to my shop. 

Derek

Take a look @ this.

attached video

He makes it look pretty easy !!

Enjoy

D ale

One of the more fiddly projects I have taken on. Is it an improvement? I trust the owner thinks so.
My first time ever with Micarta which was interesting and as always I learnt heaps along the way.

If I was your Shop teacher I would give you an A+ for that project.

Especially nice work on those pins! If I were the owner of that knife I would be very pleased.

Im not sure if its an improvment either but there are a lot of those alloy SA knives, now he has a unique knife. Very well done. 

Saw this great piece of work and I am looking for some advice on repairing the pin on an Al MAR OSS model. The wire cutter portion the pliers grip is loose.  Does anybody know who might handle this kind of muti-tool repair?

Thanks in advance

Thanks I was going to call him but he doesn't do phone so will send him an e mail.

Andrew we have used Muskrat Man several times.  Always better than his word, reasonable and just a nice young man

I jad muskrat man replace a spring on an old vitorinox knife, did a good job. I recomend him. 

Thanks Much guys I will get in touch with him.

Hi group.  I have two knives that would be highly collectible if they weren't in such bad shape.  I have a 1925-32 Queen City Swell-Center, Opposite-End Jack knife and a Bulldog Stag Handle Baby Sunfish.  The pictures are in my image page. I am thinking about restoring/repairing them and I'd like some input.20170128_192222.jpg 20170128_192401.jpg 20170128_192401.jpg 20170128_192450.jpg 20170128_192517.jpg 20170128_185949.jpg 20170128_190151.jpg 20170128_190236.jpg 20170128_190334.jpg 20170128_190414.jpg

Stephen, Ill start. If they were mine I would simply clean off the rusty areas, claen any crud oil them and be happy. To clean off rust without damaging original finish or patina I soak the rust in oil, 3in1 is good, or any good penetrating oil, or really any oil I can reach. let it soak an hour or a gew days, cany hurt it. then I scrape it off using a piece of copper that I have a filed sharp edge on. The copper will scrape the softened rust but not scratch most other metals. Scrape it untill smooth. The rusted area will leave a dark spot but thats ok, its patina now. Please wait for other advice to see which is best for your project. 

I had someone recommend using a Mr. Clean magic eraser to remove some pepper spots and/or light pitting.  What say you all to this?  Anyone tried it before?

first let me ask, do we know how the rust happened?  I have to agree with D ale that it appears they have been near a celluloid that gassed.

The reason I ask that is simple, they tend to just continue to corrode and that can make a difference in how you clean it.  Baking soda has a slight abrasive property.  That would be where I start, mix it with a little oil and rub it with your fingers in the effected areas.  When that is done and cleaned off you may to do a soak in oil for an hour or so and then clean it lightly.

Not sure how this happened, as I have just acquired this knife a week ago.  Here are some closer shots of the blades in question.

Andy,

Does this knife, or any knives that were stored near this knife, have celluloid handles? If those blades were clear a week ago and suddenly became as they are seen in those pictures then I would have to think that they were exposed to a celluloid handled knife that was gassing out? That would be my first guess, anyway.

Unfortunately I picked this knife up at an antique mall/flea-market so I don't have much history on it.  I know I had seen this knife a few weeks back and I believe it looks about the same now as when I had first laid eyes on it.  If it is from the gas, is there anything I can do to stop the erosion?  I've heard of it's nasty effects, just not experienced it first hand.  If it's not from the gas...any thoughts on cleaning it?  I've not got much in this knife, just liked the looks of the handles and noticed the blades were full so I thought it'd be a good EDC, just wanted to try and clean it up a little bit better.

mr. clean magic eraser will scuff the surface. 

I never make the same mistake twice.

I make it like .. 4 or 5 times.

You know .. just to be sure !!

Hi Ya'll.  A newer member posted a discussion that I think would be best in here, so here is the link Buck 317

missing scale side 

Thanks for transferring the pertinent pics, Jan.
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I'm w/ Derek on this one .. it would be a great time to replace both scales. And the old scale on the other side could be used as a "pattern" when making the new scales. The choice of material for new scales is almost endless & the result would be very unique.

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Wally .. what exactly are your questions Re: the scale replacement. Also, what tools do you have at your disposal ?

.

Enjoy

D ale

I've not got any tools I could work wood or bone with but I do have an idea. I used to build model planes using Balsa wood when I was around 11 yrs old.

  I got to thinking about using Balsa wood to make the pattern and use it get where it fit the frame of the 317 and the wood is soft enough that I should be able to use it to make sure it fits the frame and mounting holes in the frame.

  Then I could select the type wood I wanted use and have a ready made pattern to follow while making the scale or if I need to have some one else make the pattern.

  Black Walnut come to mind as a wood to use for the scales. however that wood is harder than a rock and pretty expenseve or at least it was 25 or 30 yrs ago. There are several other types I given some thought to.

   Bone scales would be very nice, however I'm not a fan of the bone scales as they do not feel right in my hand. I have an Uncle Henry folding hunter with the bone scales and they make it feel like its way bigger than it is and it feels uncomfortable in my hand.

  So I'm thinking of using wood scales as replacements. Wood would be easier for me to work with and with the balsa wood pattern the scales could be cut and all I would need to do is finish them out. 

  But here's the kicker. I have no way to mount the scales or do I know how to mount them or brad the one pin that us used to help hold the scales on the frame and if any kind of a glue is used to help hold the scales on. 

  So it would probably be better for me to have it done.

Wally

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The absence of any tools is a detriment to accomplishing this yourself. It does throw a definite impediment into the process.

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However, you do imply you've the skills & confidence to fabricate a pattern out of balsa wood .. that is a very positive attribute.

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A set of wood scale material may not be as pricey as you anticipate ..as.. they can be obtained in the range of $5 ~ $10 .. less if you have some appropriately sized "scraps" available for use.

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NOTE: The highlighted & underlined "price range" is a link to a source for said scale blanks. If you click on the link .. it should take you to the site. Other options are certainly out there.

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I agree that wood is easier to work with. Simple hand tools .. coping saw, rasp, file, sandpaper, etc .. are all that is required. While the same is true for bone .. jigged bone is typically a bit more expensive. I personally find the natural wood grain more aesthetically pleasing. My wife absolutely refuses to entertain anything but.

.

... I believe ...

The biggest hurdle for you is the removal & replacement of the center backspring pin. I could think of ways around that ..if.. you were interested. However .. most of us would remove the existing center backspring pin & re-introduce a new one in the process. Correct me if I am wrong ..AND.. no offense intended ..BUT.. I suspect that to be pushing your comfort zone. Again .. I could suggest (legitimate) methods to replace the scales without removing the center backspring pin. However .. most of us would replace the center backspring pin in the process.

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Adhesives .. there exist a # of 2-part epoxies that will sufficiently secure any replacement scales in place.There are choices you can make & things you can do to further enhance the success of using adhesives ... roughing up the mating surfaces .. correct choice of adhesive .. etc.

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Wally .. would you post a pic of the blades. You've intimated the tips are broken. How badly are they damaged ?  Would you wish them restored, i.e. reground to a point ??

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Thanks again for joining our "Repair & Mod" group.

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Enjoy

D ale

I've been very busy with many projects and finally have got most of them done.. :). As to the 317 it is progressing  just a bit. I have managed to get the blades back to a point with a lot of work and I also discovered that the main blade has had the tip broken before and its been redone and then the tip was broken again by the time I got it.

 So its close to a quarter inch shorter that the stock blade. I have been looking for tools to shape the scales after they are cut and came a cross a dremel kit with a most every thing I will need. 

  I have the balsa wood and the black walnut for the scales is on its way. One of the few problems will be removing the scale on the other side and I've decided the trim the pin that holds it on. However I will be sure its stable. 

Wally

A simple1 X 30 belt sander will go a long ways in helping with the rough profiling of scales.

NOTE: I state "rough" because it is easy to remove more than the desired amount if one lacks experience. I would suggest final forming with a small file ..or.. needle files. They are "reasonably" priced ..&.. tis likely what MANY of us started with as our first belt sander. Also, never toss out old worn belts ..as.. they can be implemented as a higher than originally rated grit belt.

This is very like the one Donnie started with.  We bought it at Northern tool

This may make an awesome project for someone!!!Cargill handmade folder sliplock but with a big chip ot of the wood...

If the link does not take you there just go to Bruce Voyles newest auction and it is item #22

Has anyone used this book?

Knife Repair & Restoration

Sorry Jan I hate to admit, I bought this book years ago and never actually used it.