Just passing this along, it was posted in the tools section and thought someone here could help

A message from Bryan OShaughnessy to all members of Tools for knife enthusiasts on iKnife Collector!

I've bought Dasco, Craftsmam,Home Depot and Ace Hardware punches to drive pins out of old pocketknives, and all of them have bent. I know the alternative could be a punch that breaks and flies explosively into bits of sharp-edged scrap-steel, but there must be a better tool to drive out pins than bending or shattering.  Looking for flat-point,pein-ended,and cross-pein.  Thanks for any advice, and best regards,
   ---Bryan OShaughnessy

Visit Tools for knife enthusiasts at:
http://iknifecollector.com/groups/group/show?id=3181080%3AGroup%3A1...

Bryan .. have you looked @ ..this..  ?

i.e. The gentleman uses a spring loaded center punch ..after.. drilling out the end of the pin.

Yow!  Here is the education I never had!  I will read this in detail soon and try out the process.  I've been damaging many old pocketknives by trying to pound the pin out; sometimes it works, but I've ruined enough that I will try the drill-it-out method.  Thanks, Dale, you've made my day.  --Bryan

Tanks D ale and please let us know how it goes Bryan!

I have a old fightin rooster stockman with celluloid handles. they are starting to shrink . I would like to save knife before they out gas. who still repairs old knife ?  I'm in Ohio and all the old craftsmen are gone.

John .. thanks for joining our "Repair & Mod" group !!!
Gary Claxon can do the job admirably. I've PM'd him for a link to his business & will provide as soon as I get it.
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Got it ... Link to his FB presence & message him from there. His work gets rave reviews @ one of the other on-line knife clubs I belong to.
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Thanks again for joining our Repair & Mod group.

Enjoy

D ale

found a knife maker in eastern Kentucky . he did a fine job.

Bryan W .. Thank you for joining Knife Repair & Mod group. It's a great group & do enjoy !!!

We have often talked about using a soup can forge for heating steel if you dont have a forge but an anvil has always been an issue.  I have looked this over a few times now and theoretically I think it may be the best DIY anvil have seen

DIY $20 Homemade Anvil With Hardie Hole

A cool and affordable work-around.

Posted 3 days ago in DIY, Videos by Russ Chastain with Be the first to comment!

The new guy is lost so I'll wing it..I have an F DICK 12" cleaver knife about 1/4" my grandfather left behind after 80 ish years as a butcher. No idea how old it is but would like to at least re handle it. should I clean the blade like new our leave the patina... It probably will just stay stuck to the wall strip looking pretty..opinions? 

I'd personally leave that patina alone. Shows the character of the knife, and its history!

I am with Manx, I would leave the patina and I would go with a wooden handle, something that would have been available back then and widely used in the area he was from.  It is a beautiful old knife and your honoring him by putting it back in shape is awesome!

Keep the blade the way it is, maybe a light polish to be rid of rust or any other greeblies, then select a handle material that suits you. When you hand it down, it has something of both of you.

Like Jan & Manx have suggested .. I too would leave the patina.
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Re: the handle scales. I'd suggest roughing up the tang surface for better adhesion w/ epoxy. While epoxy is not absolutely necessary when pinned .. the epoxy also acts as a sealant preventing moisture from getting between the scales & tang.

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Once finished, I'd suggest a light coat of Renaissance Wax (or equivalent) over all.

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!! . Nice Knife . !!

Can anyone share their method of helping rid a knife of the "gritty" feeling when opening and closing the blades?  I've tried scalding hot water, Dawn dishwashing soap and a toothbrush and sometimes it will work, but other times.... meh!

Also, is there any PRACTICAL way of lessening the main spring tension short of disassembling the knife?  I have two knives that are absolute nail breakers!  Other than that, they're primo.

Thanks for any suggestions,
Dewman

Dewey .. Thanks for joining the Repair & Mod group !
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gritty feeling in the joints .. after thorough cleaning

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Observe the joint end of the blade .. where the spring rides over. If the joints have not been oiled regularly .. galling of the metal may have occurred. It should be observable with a loupe. 

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If that's the case ... I'm sorry !

Re: nail breaker. There's no "practical" method short of dis-assembly to fix really strong springs that I'm aware of. 

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just an opinion .. mine

Another pic of metal galling.

Galling often happens when there exists force (lots of it) applied to 2 frictional surfaces. e.g. opening a blade riding on strong springs. Especially in the absence of a lubricant.

I looked very carefully and I can see the rough areas on the tang where it rides on the spring.  It's rough.  I tried a small machinist's file and was able to improve it about 50% but.... meh.  It's not galled as such, but rather poor manufacturing.  On another one, I think it's the spring itself that's "not smooth."  On the ones that feel "gritty," it's in the friction area of the bolster and tang.  Gunk left from assembly I suspect as the knife was new.   It's a curse to be so OC about things like that but that's what separates us from the rest of the crowd I suppose.

Just curious.... have any of you ever tried STP as a knife lubricant in the tang-bolster area?  I haven't but wondered about it.

Thanks for your reply.

Hello all.  I'm a new member here on the IKC forum.   Over the years, I've tried to re-haft a few knives with questionable success.  Some O.K., some are hidden so no one will ever see them!

I live in Idaho and I have quite a bit of elk antler (could be made into some wild looking "stag") as well as some very wild grained wood (fiddleback maple, purpleheart, redwood burl and apple wood, beech and walnut burl.  If any of you would like a few pieces, PM me and we'll talk.

Dewey

Your last comment might be better posted in the "comment" portion of your "My Page" area ..or.. at the top of the "Latest Activity" column on the right ..as.. it seems posted as a remark to all. Currently .. your last comment was posted only to the "Repair & Mod" group ..as opposed to.. the "entire iKC group".

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Note: Just cut-n-paste the last comment into the top of the "Latest Activity" column on the right & everyone will see it.
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Your more recent comment referencing the rough areas of the tang may be as the result of galling. Quest: does it appear like my last posted pic ?

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If so .. that is unfortunate. No matter how or if you manage to get it smooth again .. the galling will always return. I'm sorry.

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Re: particles between the tang & liner.

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!!! .. BEWARE .. !!!

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Brake cleaner would likely remove particles from between the tang & the liner ..BUT.. beware possible damage to other components i.e. scales. 

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Afterwards .. "Oil the Joints" !!!

Comment by Dewey treat on Sunday

Can anyone share their method of helping rid a knife of the "gritty" feeling when opening and closing the blades?  I've tried scalding hot water, Dawn dishwashing soap and a toothbrush and sometimes it will work, but other times.... meh!

Hi All, I want to replace the scales on a Victorinox SD Classic. I have some redwood burl I want to use. Can anyone give me any advice on what type of glue to use? Thanks!

Hi CeCe .. Welcome to our Repair & Mod Group. Thank you for joining !

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JJ Smith is likely the man to talk to on Re: Victorinox. He has replaced numerous scales on his collection of SAK's. I believe he has a fair collection of them. However, I also believe his scale swaps have been from prefabricated scales. Nonetheless, he's the most knowledgeable, Re: SAK's, among our group.

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As far as adhesive goes .. I'd recommend most any quality 2-part epoxy. Note: longer cure times are generally the "strongest". I do "rough up" the mating surfaces before adding adhesives. I'll use a scribe to "scratch up" the metal surface & do the same for the mating wood surface. Re: wood .. a coarse grit will do the same.

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Wish I could be more helpful .. am just not that familiar with SAK's.

D ale

Hi CeCe .. Welcome to our Repair & Mod Group. Thank you for joining !

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JJ Smith is likely the man to talk to on Re: Victorinox. He has replaced numerous scales on his collection of SAK's. I believe he has a fair collection of them. However, I also believe his scale swaps have been from prefabricated scales. Nonetheless, he's the most knowledgeable, Re: SAK's, among our group.

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As far as adhesive goes .. I'd recommend most any quality 2-part epoxy. Note: longer cure times are generally the "strongest". I do "rough up" the mating surfaces before adding adhesives. I'll use a scribe to "scratch up" the metal surface & do the same for the mating wood surface. Re: wood .. a coarse grit will do the same.

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Wish I could be more helpful .. am just not that familiar with SAK's.

D ale

Thank you D ale!

Cece, I'm assuming that you'll be doing the woodwork and fitment yourself.  L

Dale said, I usually just do simple swaps, but found this awesome video on making custom scales for a 58 mm SAK where he uses the 2 part epoxy like Dale suggested.

Good luck and post pics. 

Thank you JJ!

Cece .. this is from a previous post. It's a post Re: epoxying wooden scales to metal liners.
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Reply by D ale on July 3, 2016 at 19:09

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Hope that helps.

Just realized, this afternoon, that I forgot to post a link to the 58mm SAK video.

https://youtu.be/R8Ree_VV9LM

Thank youJJ, the video was very helpful!

Thanks, JJ. 

Wayne Holmes

Thanks for joining our Repair & Mod Group.

Rehandling the old celluloid knives as they begin to start gassing ........Is what we are into now.........Lots of antique Case knives and some newer ones early 90's are starting to decompose........Will post pictures as we get them done....

Sue,

I'd love to have you post some results.

I also have a few "gassing" knives.

It's such a shame !

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Thanks for posting.

D ale

Sue .. have you checked THIS out ?

Hi,

I've a couple of questions about knife repair, but will confine it to this one first.  I recently purchased a H & B jack knife in what I consider pretty nice condition except for one small flaw.  The scales are mother of pearl, unbroken and undamaged.  However, one of the scales is warped away from the liner a small amount.  I am not skilled enough (at least not yet) to remove the scale and repin it.  Is there some way to reattach reglue(?) the scale without disassembly?  Any suggestions will be appreciated, since I am just beginning to get my feet wet in this repair stuff.  I would not be afraid to attempt removing and repinning the scale if it were anything but MOP, but I know how brittle this is.  Thanks.

Bruce 

Bruce, 

Could you / would you post a pic of the "gap".

... 'n welcome to the "Repair & Mod" group, Bruce !!!
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As we all know .. pearl is rather fragile. If you'd post a pic of the existing gap between the pearl & the liner .. it would help toward proceeding w/ suggestions.
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Enjoy,

D ale

D ale,

I will do that, but will have to take the picture first, Duh.  I will try to get that done after I finish a couple of other little chores.  Thanks.

Bruce

No hurry, Bruce .. take your time.
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When you've the pic ready to post .. note the 2cnd icon from the left @ the top of this "comment" box. If you hover the mouse over that icon .. it will display "image".

Clicking on that icon will direct you to upload the image .. from your device to this forum. 

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If you already knew that .. please ignore & just proceed.

D ale

OK, here we go.  I can post more if it will help but thought this may get it started.

Gonna add another couple.  First one on the first reply shows the general condition of the knife.  Seemed like a good investment at the time...

?? does the gap close up if you squeeze the effected area of the knife between your finger & thumb ??
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Good & useful pics !

Just out of curiosity .. what is the stamping ?

And while I'm on a roll, the other question is about a broken liner on an LB7 Schrade.  Are there any replacement liners that can be accessed for this knife and is it worth repairing, other than the practice, that is.  Pics attached, thanks to D ale's instruction.  All opinions appreciated.