Re: the Schrade LB7 w/ broken liner. 
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If the blade's in good shape .. you might be able to save that toward another LB7 w/ a used up blade. Sorry about the broken liner .. I think your out of luck on that one. On the 'bay .. used one's in good shape can be had in the 20~25 range.

~ $10 would get you an LB7 w/ good frame but used up blade.

Also Bruce .. the bold letters on my most recent comments are "LINKS" that will take you direct to the pertinent data.

Got it.  Thanks for the pointer.  It should be fun and informative to marry these two and come up with one usable knife.  Any thoughts on the MOP?  I am very aware of the fragile nature of this material.  Am also aware that working with it can be risky healthwise, so don't plan to do any abrasive work with it.  Had a custom knife maker friend in Illinois years ago that warned me about the potential health risks.  He has since gone to his reward, but was a knife maker of the first order in my opinion.  Thanks again for the help so far.    

Bruce

Re: pearl knife.

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?? does the gap close up if you squeeze the effected area of the knife between your finger & thumb ??

Yes, it does.  I cleaned the pearl and the liner as much as I could with 400 grit abrasive in the gap, but don't know if epoxy or some other adhesive will bond the two together.  I assume that if I had some way to peen the brass pin that would probably hold.  But I am not about to attempt that and have the pearl break. 

Bruce  

Bruce,

That's exactly where I was headed. I would NOT use superglue, as it sets up way to quickly. I would suggest a good 2-part epoxy w/ a 5 min cure time .. min.

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NOTE: Rule of thumb is the longer the cure time .. the stronger the bond.

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I would not mix up very much of the epoxy as you will not be needing much. I would suggest a toothpick or a sharpened bamboo barbecue skewer to insert the epoxy into the area of the gap. Squeeze it together enough to remove the excess epoxy. Then, one could hold it in place till it sets up. Personally, I use a padded clamp to hold it tight for an extended period to insure a complete cure time. Also, I'd suggest wrapping it in wax paper during clamping.
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Addendum: I sent you a "friend request" to facilitate PM'ing you some links to where others have done the same on some of the other forums I belong to.
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Enjoy,
D ale

D ale,

Guess I will have to get some epoxy.  I have used a good deal of it over the years, but have none currently.  Also just picked up a couple of small clamps today that will be perfect to hold everything together.  Thanks for all the help and suggestions.  This should be worth the effort when done.  

Bruce

While pearl is simply beautiful, it is also quite fragile. 

I believe this to be the safest approach.

D ale

Hi D ale,

Sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner.  I tried the epoxy route on the H & B MOP knife and it worked a treat!  The scale is tight and no damage to anything.  I still have to do the clean up on the whole knife, but now I will definitely feel it worth the effort.  

I also ordered the Schrade LB7 with the used up blade.  The frame is slightly bent, but I think it is totally repairable.  Will start on this one soon and let you know how it progresses.  Thank you for the reassurance I needed to tackle these projects.  I'm not one to shy away from a new challenge, but just wasn't positive I was headed the right direction.  Thanks, again.

Bruce

Thanks for the response, Bruce. Feedback keeps me doing this.
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I'm glad to hear the H&B w/ MOP worked out for you. I know I queried a # of questions before giving an actual response. I just wanted to insure of providing the best possible approach. Again, pleased to hear it worked out just fine for you !
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Yet another question, will you be completely dis-assembling the LB7 w/ used up blade ?
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Thanks again for the feedback, I personally appreciate it ..plus.. other members can also benefit from the "it worked" point. 

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Regards,

D ale

Questions are always useful when trying to figure out a problem.  I think we worked the problem well.  I think the only way to make the marriage work and come out with a good knife will be to take them both apart and use the best parts.  It may be a little tricky to fit the scale from one to the frame of the other, but that's a bridge to cross when it is met..  My thought is to drill out the center pivot and then the blade axle.  Any thoughts about this approach?

Bruce,

I have a mini-mill & used to do very similar to what your currently thinking. I would center punch the pin to be removed & would then drill (using a drill slightly undersize) the said pin to a depth of  ~0.031".  I would then use (again, slightly undersize of the given pin) & drift out the pin using the punch. Unfortunately, the used pins often become bent our out line from use. I would then drill to a deeper depth & try drifting the pin out again. Sometimes it didn't work out quite the way I'd hoped.

After perusing a # of other forums .. I discovered an almost universal method. I see it used by so many others ..simply because.. it works. That method is to use utility type razor blades. You start by edging the utility blade between the liner & the blade ..or.. between the liner & the back spring. Slowly but somewhat forcefully the utility blade is forced into the pin, which will shear the pin. Sometimes more than one utility blade will be required.

NOTE: I am currently working on a project that required full disassembly. See pic.

I did not have any utility razor blades in the house & wasn't about to run into town for any. One thing I do have in my house is an abundance of knives. go figure. What I very successfully used was an old used up Catt kitchen knife. The spine of the blade measured on 0.045" thick .. ideal. It worked quite successfully. And big Kudos to the old Catt. Take a look @ the Catt blade's edge & you'll not see a single notch @ the cutting edge of the Catt after shearing all 3 required pins. 
If a slight burr is present @ the btm of the sheared pin .. either sand out the burr ..or.. use a dremel cut-off wheel (lightly) till you removed any burr left from the shearing action. Generally speaking, I can usually just drift the pins out using a punch w/o any additional clean-up of burrs left from the shearing action.

Also .. by utility type razor blades .. I mean those pictured below.

D ale,

I had seen this process somewhere but thought it looked like difficult to cut the pins.  Hadn't thought of the utility blades.  That's how I will proceed.  Looks like you are doing the same thing I'm trying with a different knife.  Guess we'll have to keep this dialogue going until we're both done.  Thank you, yet again for a road map.

Bruce

I had always figured the pivot pins would be hardened.  The center pin, not so much.  Guess I was wrong about the pivot pin.  As an aside, I bought a batch of Schrade parts a while back on ebay, so if you need liners for Schrade, I might have it.  Unfortunately, there wasn't one for the LB7 in question.  Couple of unground medium size blades as well.  

The knife I'm currently working on is a Kinfolks Folding Hunter model #8292. I purchased it back in the early 80's on the cheap because one of the backsprings was broken. I told myself .. when I got my skill set up .. I'd fix it ! Then, bagged it at the time. Sometime later while going through some other knives I discovered this one had gassed out.

!!! . Sad Day . !!!

I removed all the remaining celluloid & sadly re-bagged it again. Recently, now became that time I referred to so many yrs ago.

I now intend to use the 2 liners w/ bolsters, intact spring, & the larger of the blades back into a single blade Folding Hunter. I hope to build the smaller blade into a leverlock auto. Please, wish me luck on the latter endeavor.

I think I have a couple of liners that can work on a liner lock, if you are interested.  Will have to check and measure them to see if they might be a candidate for your second project.  Sympathies on the Kinfolks.  I've had a couple of knives do that through the years, but nothing that nice.  Mine were el-cheapos that didn't amount to anything to begin with.  Let me know if you want me to check and good luck with both projects.

Thanks for the kind offer , Bruce. Genuinely appreciated !

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Leverlocks have a sear pin that drops into slots in the blade locking the blade in place for both the open & closed positions. I popped a couple open for you to take a look at the locking mechanisms.

My greatest concern was if there existed a sufficient area of the tang of the Kinfolks to make this a workable project. I used a bamboo barbecue skewer that was slightly larger then the 0.125" dia of the pins of these leverlocks. I also drove the bamboo skewer on through the 0.090" pin hole of the Kinfolks, forcing the 2 hole diameters to become coincident w/ one another, i.e. centered. This allowed me to insure there did indeed provide a sufficient area present in the tang of the Kinfolks. 
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I will have to enlarge the pivot hole of the Kinfolks to 0.125". Luckily, I have a small mill & a # of 0.125" carbide end mills (fancy drill bits). I will take great care to insure that the larger hole is centered on the original pre-existing pivot pin hole.
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Cutting of the slots will also require some thought. The open slot at the end of the tang is for the open position. Being open ended .. it will be fairly straight forward .. I hope. The enclosed slot is for the closed position & will require a bit more effort. I intend to (carbide) drill a hole in the appropriate position & then likely use up a # of needle files while finishing the process.

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I seem to be going on & on &on a bit ...........
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Thanks for the kind offer !
D ale

Bruce .. take a look @ the attached LINK. It's authored by a very respected knife maker who specializes in repair. Useful pics are included / embedded w/i the link.
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Note: I've seen 2 other's who specialize in slipjoint repair. They both now use putty knives where they've sharpened one long edge to a durable edge (45 deg or slightly more". The advantage of putty knives, (sharpened on the edge intended for use specific to shearing pins), over using the industrial razor blade approach is the thinness of the putty knife & their enhanced strength & durability. I've seen this approach by 2 people that specialize in high volume slipjoint knife repair.
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I've also noted additional industrial razor blades adjacent to one another until the pin shears, i.e. the first industrial razor blade is firmly in place & starting the shear process, the 2cnd blade is introduced along side the 1st til the shearing action is completed.

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Note: Pins have to be soft enough to be peened. They are not hardened. By the same token, they are not so soft as gold or silver. Those are only used in "art" knives & then very rarely.
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Hope things are working out for the LB7 project !

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Enjoy,

D ale

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*Addendum: I never wish to come off as condescending in any of my remarks, such as .. " carbide end mills (fancy drill bits)". I just never know a person's skill level & rather over do it @ times. If you are already proficiently aware .. please excuse !

D ale,

Regarding your addendum, I would do the same myself if communicating with someone I was unaware of their expertise and knowledge.  As it happens, I do have a very wide background in a lot of stuff including metal work, but am never offended when receiving information.  Besides, someone who hasn't the background might read the thread and need the extended information.  

Now on to the meat of the matter.  The link you sent was instructional.  I was trying to use the utility blade wrong and had terrible luck.  Wound up drilling and punching pins to get the two knives apart.  Copacetic at this point.  Next problem is finding pins to put it all back together.  I am assuming the pivot for the blade needs to be semi-hard at least.  Am I correct or is simple mild steel going to hold up?  I have brass rod which I think will work for everything else, but the blade is a question mark in my mind.  I also had to remove the scales from the liners,since the ones I had are much nicer than the replacements.  Are these pins available somewhere reasonably or should I just use soft brass rod for these as well?  I'm sure setting them is going to be interesting.  

The whole project has been a learning experience.  I hadn't anticipated the necessity of truing the liners before reassembly, but it was necessary.  As stated, quite a learning experience.  

Thanks again for the assistance.

Bruce

Bruce ... Re: Pin Stock
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Brass round stock.

Nickel Silver Round Stock.
I've personally used Jantz supplies. Not for pins ..but.. certainly other parts. I've always been pleased with their service & parts I've sourced from them.
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Rod / pin stock from another supplier that I've used in the past. I've never experienced negative experiences from them either..

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I've also used USA Knife Maker's supplies ..but.. they're currently out of 0.125" pin stock in both brass & SS ..&.. I'm pretty sure the pivot pin used in a Schrade LB7 is 0.125".
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NOTE: when you reach the stage of peening the pivot pins .. place an 0.001" ~ 0.002" shim stock around the pins (both sides) between the frames & the blade. Cut enough of a slot into the shim stock the it will "saddle" the pin during the peening process. Also, use an old piece of inner tube or a sufficient pc of rubber that exposes just the pin to be peened while covering the surrounding bolsters or other parts you wish to minimize any damage.

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I'm lucky enough to have a real honest to goodness hardware store in town that meets most of my pin stock & tubing requirements.

Enjoy,

D ale

So, what you're telling me is the pin is nickel silver or SS rod? I would think either would be too soft to resist the friction of the blade rotation.  Then again, I have never built a slip joint of any type, so am just being sure I'm doing this correctly and not misinterpreting what you are telling me.  I really don't want to do this knife over.  

The pivot pin in the knives I have disassembled does seem to be .125.  One of the blades has the pivot hole wallowed out, but it is the one that will no be reused, so not an issue.  The pivot hole on the good blade measures out at about .128.  Is this about right?  I assumed there needs to be clearance, but wasn't sure .003 is not excessive.  

All input appreciated, as usual.

Bruce

Bruce,

Most makers or master cutlers in the repair business use either Brass or NS for handle pins .. as shown here for securing handles, bolsters, and guards. Often, for pivot pins too. I've also seen others use std nails of the appropriate size.
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However ..I apologize.. I'd forgotten about these. 
They are machined hardened stainless steel pivot pins. I use them mostly in my leverlocks. The are 0.125" in OD & 0.050" in length. The are machined threaded over the entirety of the internal length & come with the required threaded fasteners. These may be ideal for your intended purpose. 
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Note, if you prefer that the heads of the threaded fastener are flush w/ the bolsters .. you will need to drill them to just the required dia of the heads & only to a depth that would make them flush. I have used them both exposed (they have a pretty low profile as is) ..or.. have recessed the heads just to the point of being flush.

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You may need to sand their OAL of the pins to match what is your required purpose. I've also had to sand/file the overall length of the threaded fasteners for best fit. Once I'm happy w/ the fit .. I add threadlocker to insure they do not creep out w/ time.
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I purchased them from knifekits ..however.. their link is currently down -{maintenance or some such}- or I would have attached a link.  I currently have 4 of them in stock & could part with one if you need.
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Enjoy,

Dale

* 0.500" in overall length

OK, that computes.  I would be tickled if you would lend me a fastener.  I can see this also making it easier to leave a slight clearance for smooth blade movement.  You must, however, allow me to replace it when the web site comes back up.  How would you prefer I send you my home address?  My email is brucensherry@gmail.com.  Thanks

Bruce

Specifications
DRSPB8 = .5 long x .125 diameter
(includes 2/2-56 BHT 1/4 screws)
Thread = 2-56
Material = 303 Stainless
(1 Package = 1 Pivot + 2 Screws)

Note: All KnifeKits.com pivots are heat treated for low wear.
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Their LINK came back up.

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However, should you experience any difficulties ... I've still got one in the wings for you.
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While on that subject .. you might consider "washers" through the pins & between the blade & liners. Although, the above linked washers  are 0.015" thick ea. This set is slightly thinner @ 0.012" thick ea. 

... ... ... BUT ... ... ...

imo .. I'd skip the washers because the threaded fasteners of the hardened pins allow for an infinite adjustment for your desired fit. Further, once threadlocked into place .. they stay there. Well, till you might desire removal for some purpose or an adjustment @ a later date anyway.

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Again, if you experience any difficulties through Knifekits .. I've a hardened SS pivot pin in the wings for you.
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Note: I've sourced a lot of parts through knifekits & never experienced a problem !

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Enjoy,

D ale

Bruce,

I sent you an email.

D ale

Hi D ale and anyone else interested. 

I finished the H & B knife with loose MOP scale.  Using your suggestion of 5-minute epoxy, the scale is now firmly attached and the knife cleaned up.  Pictures attached.  Thanks for the advise and support.  I now have a pretty, solid and functional addition to the accumulation of cutting instruments.

Always good to have folks to ask questions when there is a new challenge afoot.

Bruce

I was out looking for some torex bits , the other day, and found this instead.  Looks handy enough to do adjustments on my few tactical style knives.

JJ

Thats a pretty sweet tool

Just some info good to know

http://www.oregonknifeclub.org/horn.html

I did this piece this morning.  Pretty darn pleased with it.

Recently rehandled this 1940-64 Case "camp" knife for a guy.  Here are before and after shots.

Dressed up a Remington USA Big Daddy Barlow in cinnamon washed giraffe bone and also fielworked the mechanics.

Andy those are some beautiful scales and you certainly did them justice with that work!

Started to open this one up just for filework and the handles snapped (it happens).  So I fileworked it and thought about what route to take on the handles.  I'd never done a cigar band but had the material...so...I put a cigar band on her and found scraps from my last 2 giraffe handles that fit the bill.  So, here's my first cigar band on a Case slimline trapper, I laid down a hybrid form of a vine pattern along the spine and back spring..

Case folding hunter in for cleaning and rehandle

Popped the plastic scales off of the Schrade O.T. liner lock.  Installed black micarta and black sea dichrolam in their place plus filework and some bolster work.

Very nice work Andy!

I honestly was not that impressed with the 'before' knives.  But after you disassemble them, clean then up nicely, and re-handle them, they are looking pretty classy.  I like to think that I appreciate good work.  Seeing some of your work has helped provide me with some ideas for some of my fun 'projects'.  ;)

Thanks Kevin.  It is "fun" to do these pieces.  Very cool to watch them transform on you bench.  Look forward to seeing some of your projects in the future.

Andy,

You have sure been doing some very very nice work!

Thank you Jan.  It's definitely someting I'm enjoying.  I never ever thought I'd be doing something like this, but hey...here I am .....LOL

That's some nice work Andy.  Very professional looking.  I've also been trying my hand at knife restoration and rehandleing.  I just finished this old Case coke bottle jack.  This was handled in bone.  When I got it, the back scale was shattered, and the front scale was loose.  The blade was pretty rusted, and very badly scratched.  It looked like someone tried to sharpen it on their driveway.  I step sanded it down to 3000, then used some metal polish on a rag.  I didn't use a wheel at all.  Some shallow pits remain.  I didn't get them all out because I thought there would be too much blade loss.  I decided to handle it in ebony just because I don't really do bone.  At least not yet anyway, with all the jigging and the dyeing.  Not crazy about the smell of burning bone.

Pretty nice work guys.

I wouldn't even know where to start.

¯⁠\⁠_⁠(⁠ツ⁠)⁠_⁠/⁠¯

That looks amazing Mike.  Yeah, the smell of bone, mammoth, ram, and then the real nasty sea cow bone....blehch! ! !  But the end result is worth the smell.

JJ, start at the beginning...LOL.  Watch some Youtube tutorials and go to town.  That's how I started.

rehandle and filework and then some.  5-6 hours into this one for a customer in TN

Thanks Andy.  I'm real happy with the outcome too, being so new to this hobby and all.  Say, that's one fancy hobo.  I doubt there are many hobos out there  carrying knives like that.  On the subject of stinking animal bone.  I do have an old 4 line Camillus sunfish that I'm planning on using some sambar stag on (pictured).  This had real thin celluloid handles that disintegrated.  The steel bolsters are also thin, so I'll have to make thicker ones from NS bar stock to accommodate the stag.  I'll have no problem making the bolsters, but do you have any tips on attaching them to the liners?  I could pin right through them just like scales, but I don't know, maybe you'd have a different way of doing it.  I would appreciate any input you may have on attaching bolsters.       

Yeah Mike, a friend on another platform said the Hobo that would be carrying that piece would be wearing a 3 piece suit...LOL.

I pin my stag.  I'll thin the back of the stag to fit also.  After getting it to the desired thickness I use some super glue to hold the stag in place while I drill it and set the pins.  I treat it like bone handles, just need to be easy on peening....don't want to crack it.

Hope this helps.  That's some STAG-gering looking stag you have there by the way!

That is some top drawer stag isn't it?  I got it just for doing this knife.  Actually, my question for you was more about attaching the new bolsters I intend to make for this knife.  As I said, the stag will be thicker than the cell that was on the knife.  So I will make new bolsters from NS bar stock.  My question is, should I just pin the bolsters to the liners like I do the scales, or is there a better way?  When they mold bolsters at the factories, I think they have pins molded right onto the back of them.  Mine of course won't.  I would have to drill and pin though the bolsters, just like the scales.  Is this what you would do?