That's great JJ! Where did you get the leather, Tandy? What kind of leather? That's one thing I've never tried; leather work. How about a little project discussion about it? I'd like to learn.

stitched with stitching awl(first time i used gizmo) usually i'm using two needles and saddle stitch,but this is much faster(and easier on hands)

what do you guys use? 

my latest work

I'd like to see some one make a basic how to get started working with leather discussion.

That's actually very nice looking Ivars. Certainly better than my attempts at leatherwork.

If anyone is interested I thought I might post step by step pics of a BK-2 sheath that we started building today. This is how we do it, If anyone has any questions about our process feel free to ask....If you use an easier method please share...

8-9 oz vegetable tanned leather, this piece is more like 9-10 oz. The pattern used was designed from a tracing of the actual knife model. When finished the sheath will be a brown, vertical carry, dual retention snap with a decorative banded strap. More pics to follow tomorrow....

 This is  my second knife completed and first sheath.  Does anyone know why the sheath stain blotched in some places.  Should I do more than one coat with the leather stain?  I also messed up on the grooves for the stitching.  I cut the groove on the back first to make sure I missed the belt loop near the edge.  Then poked and drilled the holes.  It came out uneven on the front and kind of messy looking.  It looks pretty good from the back.  Also, what is the best order?  I did it glue, stitch, wet and mold, stain, and seal.  I think there has to be a better order.  

Blotching - Did you deglaze (clean) the leather before staining?

The order that works for me: Glue, trim edges with belt grinder, follow edge with groover on front, space holes in groove, after making holes I groove the back last connecting holes, I use 2 different groovers, edge following type and manual type, I then deglaze, stain, cross stitch, edge coat.

Nice work there, I like the photo with what looks like spalted maple, nice touch with fish lure !   

Awesome sheaths displayed here. Where does everyone get there leather from? Looking for some online and preferably cheap to start off with to learn

cheers JJ

Just found this company and order a 10lb bundle of 8oz black leather, and a couple of sheath kits from them. Pricing was suprisingly good even with postage to Australia - $53AUD for the lot including postage.

http://www.leatherunltd.com/

they can be used, now sute what Oz rating it has though but I believe it is fairly light. I have a money pouch made out kangaroo that is really light leather

Ivars, I used Tandy's dye.  Eco flo or something like that.  Daniel, I did not deglaze the leather before I died it.  I am not sure what deglazing means.  The wood in the photo is Hackberry.  Thanks for all the replies and nice comments.  I bought mine from Tandy Leather.  I was told to get vegetable tanned double shoulders 8-9 ounce.  

Was looking at your pics of the sheath you made. Looks more like a "contamination" from you fingers issue. Have to keep your hands and work area very clean when working leather. Leather is like a sponge when it comes to dirt, dust and oil. That's why you see a lot of dark brown and black sheaths out there, hides the smudges.

The deglazing process is just a means of chemically scrubbing the surface of the leather so that any oils, slick spots, etc. are broken up or removed so that the dye will take more evenly. You can buy commercial product or just use acetone or alcohol. Light sponge wipe the surface. Some contaminations will not be removed this way such as glue, accelerated/emulsified waxes, some oils, etc. Got to keep it clean.

You might also try lightly dampening the leather's surface with a sponge before applying the dye (with another sponge, the daubers tend to increase the potential for streaking). Bold even swipes in the same direction where possible and try not to overlap too much. Wearing rubber gloves is a good idea to limit contamination potential.

Also be real careful with your glue. I tried the Eco dyes and was not impressed, so I mainly stick to Fiebings or make my own for special effects.

As Ivars indicated, it's tricky buying leather. Cheap leather usually results in "cheap" results. I will only buy from Tandy if I am in the store and can pick for myself. Most of their leather is mediocre to poor in quality and not suitable for dressing a $1K knife. I used to buy from Seigel of Cal. because I know Steve and he would always send me the best select, however he has moved and is not handling the bulk veg tanned like he used to. Wickett-Craig has fallen in quality and lost a lot of repeat business from a lot of us leather craftsmen. I now get mine either from Weaver's (wholesale only) or a supplier named Roger in NC who hand picks for me (don't have his contact on hand). I do buy several sides at a time.

Do your self a favor and learn to "read" leather by site and feel. You will only get quality when you use quality. Either that or learn to camo the flaws.

If you want black through and through, just dip the leather in vinegaroon. The iron oxides with chemically react with the tannin in the leather and saturate completely through the leather.

Vinegaroon is a by product of using white vinegar to soften and remove scale from forged blades and to patina etch finished blades. If you are not a smith, you can make it up. Just fill a glass container (qt or bigger) with distilled white vinegar and add a pillow of steel wool. Set it in the sun or warm with a spot lamp to speed up the process. When the wool is dissolved the solution is ready for use. Just dip your leather in, shake off excess and set aside to dry. This also works well with most woods as there is tannin in them. Europeans used this a lot to blacken their oak handles on cutlery.

The chem reaction will neutralize the acid in the leather. So once the sheath is completed dried and sealed as normal practice, it will not react with the blade steel.

Steeped blackwalnut hulls with also stain leather but more of a chocolate brown.

Been making sheaths for as long as I have been making knives (over 50 yrs). Never experienced any "damage" to the leather from either method. The chemical reaction of the tannin and the vinergaroon has no adverse effect on the composition of the leather or it's integrity. It's merely a reaction between the dissolved iron oxide and the tannin.

Most wood dyes have petroleum product in them as liquifiers and carriers for penetration. You are not getting away from chemicals with wood dyes. Petroleum products are more detremental to leather than most other chemicals as they do break down the organic structure of the leather itself and cause stiffening, hardening and eventually crumbling. Just try motor oil on some leather some time.

However, conversely, many knifemakers do use leather dyes to dye and stain their different woods, bone and antler used for handle material with very nice results.

Ivars

I think we just have a misunderstanding of terminology. Not sure where your concern about damaging the leather initiated. I do know that petroleum products are detrimental to veg tanned leather. Chemical is a pretty broad term and all substances are composed of chemicals. I do not see the need to go to dyes developed for wood when there are so many excellent dyes specifically designed for leather. Not saying I wouldn't experiment for effect at some time, just see no need to switch.

Jason, can yo show us some of yours and see if we can get some more people to help us revitalize it?

Great work Ivars.

Ivars

Very nice leather work

What is the rolled up case?

I have made a couple of scandi type sheaths 1 for an old frost blade that my dad had and I added a new handle too and 1 for a knife I made.Can you tell what purpose the flap at the bottom had? See picture

Thanks,very nice Now I want one I looked at your pics on facebook Very very nice

Nice leather work!

You're becoming really good Ivars. Those latest pictures are some amazing pieces.

Ivars

Thanks for the answer on the scandi sheaths

Have asked many and its one of those things that drive you crazy when you cant find out.I think I will attempt a knife roll.I carry knifes,sheaths around in a old briefcase the roll would look much nicer

I think it's to disperse water and to try keep it from freezing and stop up the hole.

Thanks Robert

Never thought of the freezing aspect but that makes sense I think also it directs the drippage away from your leg

Here are a couple of the items I have made recently including an arrow quiver, arm guard, pouch and cross draw sheath for a Buck 110.

Some great work being displayed by members here.

The  quiver depends on the leather but around $100-120 once you take into account the leather, dye, screws / d-shackles etc

Great job on the projects Jason!

They are looking fantastic Jason and I am extremely impressed with the cross draw sheath!

Cool projects Jason.

I'm a rookie just trying to make a couple of sheaths for some straight knives for hunting. I'll put a pic on when I finish but they will not be pro grade by any means. Just functional.

Thanks all, still learning and a long way to go yet.

Loving the style that Ivars makes and would love to progress to that level.

I have some cool Celtic designs to use but need a lot of practice on tooling the designs into some scrap leather

I made a couple of simple sheaths for some knives. They are simple but really functional for me. I gave the small bucksaw knife to my son. I had a triple thickness of leather to sew through and finally figured out to soak in water a few minutes to make sewing easier. I have about 4 or so more sheaths to make for long knives and one or two for large pocket knives.I am going to try different patterns for some of those. I am learning.

Nice work all.

Here are pics of the last 4 projects I have compleated 1 holster for a 9mm Makarov, 2 pouch style belt sheaths for assist open knives by Black Legion,And 1 Honeydo pouch for my wifes garden shears. The sheaths have 3" belt loop with a snap so you can put on and remove with out removing your belt.

Bruce you have been busy and doing very well!!!

Jason 

Nice job I like the cross draw sheath. Is this your pattern?

Would like to attempt one similar.

Thanks Jason

I made one and it came out good but I have just changed to a new glue and where the glue got on leather it acted as a resist and did not stain so I wont show it off till I make another. I used to use Fieldlings which works great. But I could not find so tried Barge cement which holds good but you have to be very very carefull applying.I dont reccomend

Thanks for the link

Both glues I purchased at Tandys ( Which is only a few minutes away )

I liked the Fieldings which is like an Elmers glue lots of working time

The barge cement was a contact type glue which needs to set first

I will look for the brand you are suggesting. Foe applicators I cut small pcs. of scap leather this allows you to adjust size easily very cheap

John,

I have never used it.  I am sorry you had this experience with !  It is very hard to spend the money to try to restore a knife and have it turn out like this

new to this group.. still learning . love the leather making as well as the knife making, 

here is a knife and sheath i made that was inspired by Paul Long. Permission from Paul to flatter his design by copying