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Comment by Halicon on February 19, 2011 at 11:35

Absolutely, there's always authority in a really fast and "twiching" lockup. I have a Lone Wolf T3 Ranger and that one sounds like cocking a shotgun. Very intimidating and authorative.

When I deployed it in full action the first time in the dojo people took steps back lol (show and touch post-practice).

 

What I think about autos though is that the automatic function is a luxurity compared to normal knives. I know of so many that have looked past basically perfectly engineered autos while going for that stuff that has a ridiculously tight spring which makes the knife jump up in the air and looses the lockup after a month.

 

In the video of Daniel, that deployment speed is for me the perfect one on an auto. No snap-back or risk of damaging the mechanism but a reliable lockup.

I don't care about how fast the blade comes out, just that it locks to a good position and has minimal amount of side/front movement.

 

If I want a knife that deploys as fast as possible I carry a fixed blade in a cross-draw sheath solution, in my opinion there's nothing faster than that. It always takes a few milliseconds to seat your thumb on the button and by that time you have already completeled the draw-cut.

 

Sorry for going off-topic, great pics by the way!

In Memoriam Comment by D ale on February 19, 2011 at 8:27

I'm with ya Chris .. w/o a solid lock-up in the working open position .. it is rendered quite useless .. akin to a stage prop !!!!

 

HOWEVER  ... there's a big bunch of pure raw undefinable sexiness in that there fast deployment.

 

Comment by Halicon .. Personally I don't care about deployment speed on an Auto .. which many seem to do .. just a solid lockup.

In Memoriam Comment by D ale on February 19, 2011 at 8:25

@ Dan .. machined*

 

*  you've some nice equip there .. a rotary turntable .. you cuttin' gears .?.?. one get's creative, they can be dmn useful .. sweet set-up !!!!!!!!!

 

I have a <$200 .. 5 speed .. "homeowner's" drill press & that diamond coated ceramic/glass cutter I showed you .. no wonder your's was centr's better 'n mine .. :D

 

.. I need to post some pics .. give the folks a shot of the 2 extremes .. I suppose one could do it with a hand held drill and some fixturing .... but, I wouldn't want to ...........

 

P.S. what would I have to part with to get you to mt the scales on my unit ???? PM me :D

In Memoriam Comment by D ale on February 19, 2011 at 7:55

Dan .. thanks mucho for all the input/feedback .. especially the wonderful pics .. tis truely worth a thousand words !!!

 

.. I'm still "playing" with mine.

 

I.e. I've got the scale matl blanked out similar to what you show .. but no further progress .. & by the way .. I like the dovetailing .. had thought about it .. but..no further progress @ this time

 

It's up 'n automated just sweet .. that's me problem .. click click click click click click click click click ....

 

NOTE: I've no problem with mine locking in the OUT position. HOWEVER, do observe the extent of "engagement" of the two critical locking surfaces !!! 

 

In the case of my kit .. it locked in the out position .. but with "shallow" engagement of the two critical locking parts. This situation was exacerbated by tightening the threaded fasteners for the frame. I intend to improve this by polishing / clearancing the portion of the locking surface @ the blades tang .. the one whick corresponds to the open position .. and doing it very slowly & carefully .. as part of the final assembly.

 

In the case of your kit .. I understand it did not lock out in the open position ... UNTIL you polished / clearanced the appropriate surface.

 

NOTE: I've also experienced a bounce back problem !! Before I  machined*  the 0.390 cavity for the spring's stack height into the blade's tang .. I damaged a 0.375 coil spring by crushing it during assembly .. it's performance quickly degraded .. to the pt where it was actually fully relaxed just before the blade was fully opened. The result was .. it would still propel the blade into the fully open position .. but then bounce back befor the locking components had time to engage. And.. as you already noted .. you're thumb may still have the button depressed !!!

 

A good standard 0.375 coil spring is working just fine for me .. that's the problem .. click click click click click .. 'n no further progress :D:D

 

Comment by Daniel Howland on February 19, 2011 at 5:49

I don't have an 1/8 inch collet so I just used a small chuck.

Comment by Daniel Howland on February 19, 2011 at 5:43

I left the first spring in so now there a 2 springs opening this thing, man is it fast. I am going to finish the handle today, hopfully I can repair the crack I put in one of the mother of pearl scales, I tightened a screw too much. oops

Comment by Daniel Howland on February 19, 2011 at 5:40

Well the spring I made throws the blade out just great, but there is a problem. because I have to push the button to open it, the same button that locks the blade open is pushed in, so sometimes I get a "bounce" after opening and there is no blade lock open. So I ended up cutting the relief in the blade for the coil spring anyways, I used an 1/8 inch round face carbide cutter in my mill and a rotary table. drilled the spring hole through with a carbide drill bit.

Comment by Halicon on February 18, 2011 at 7:03

edit: Nice grip you got on that thing ;)

Comment by Halicon on February 18, 2011 at 7:02

To be honest it doesn't look like a good auto. It looks like one of those with too high tension that it could almost jump out of your hand due to it's small size.

 

Personally I don't care about deployment speed on an Auto which many seem to do, just a solid lockup.

Could be a nice little thing to carry if the price isn't too steep however.

Comment by Daniel Howland on February 18, 2011 at 6:56

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjbFMfycQqk

 

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