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Permalink Reply by Heidi Jo Bean on January 18, 2018 at 21:37

I think that is the most beautiful knife I've ever seen! 

Jim Prather said:

I would never touch an antique knife unless it is factory mint. If it is mint, with no blemishes, I would continue to keep it mint with Renaissance Pre-Lim, and then a protective coating of Renaissance Wax. As far as my antiques are concerned, I always preserve the tatina with Renaissance Wax and a light hand buff. This arrests any further corrosion and preserves the history of the knife.

You can bet that this old, and VERY RARE, Holley Wharncliffe had a patina on it when I was lucky enough to acquire it, but it has no rust, and it never will! I didn't even polish the shiels and bolsters.

Holley was the first full time manufacturer of pocket knives in the United States.

And neither will this ever rust! Just got it in the mail from Michael Hoover at:
http://redrummdknives.blademakers.com/

The material is "Dinousaur Gem Bone". Michael is the only person I know of who does this.

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Permalink Reply by Heidi Jo Bean on January 18, 2018 at 21:51

Thanks Frank. I was wondering if I should try to correct a slightly loose guard and wooden handles of an old MARKS & REES 1850's large knife.
The looseness isn't bad at all, maybe 1/16" or smaller, but you can feel it and hear it when you shake the knife in your hand. I researched and found that maybe soaking the handle in water for a few hours might swell the wood, and correct the problem.
I would love any input from the experienced knife collectors.

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KnifeMakerPermalink Reply by Michael Z. Williamson on January 27, 2018 at 11:40

I've worked with knives professionally for 35 years.  Let's look at what you have here:

Do you have an actual collectible that is worth money?  Then you should leave it alone, keep it oiled and not use it.  Personally, I hate things I can't use, but that's what collectibles are.

Is it a knife you use regularly?  Then maintain it as best you can.

It is a family heirloom in rough shape? I get inquiries all the time to "repair" or "restore" these, and in most cases, a replacement of a common brand is $20 or so, and to even start restoration I'm going to need $100. Often, I have to tell them, "by the time I replace the worn blades, the handle scales, the springs and clean everything up, the only original piece will be that brass liner, and I'm not even sure about that."

Unless you are talking about one of the collectibles, a buffing wheel does zero harm, provided you know how to use it. (And assuming we're not talking about something with a pattern weld or Japanese lamination, or something really old with a steel edge forge welded to a wrought iron body.)

As an aside, I always have to remind myself on the difference in perception. I grew up in the UK and the church I went to had visible gravestones from the 800s.  So I have to remind myself that in the US, 50 years is considered "antique."

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KnifeMakerPermalink Reply by Michael Z. Williamson on January 27, 2018 at 11:43

I would not soak in water. It would only work temporarily and could lead to decay of wood or metal.  You can try using an oil that would have been appropriate at the time, such as home-boiled linseed, and let the wood soak it up.  Lemon oil shouldn't cause any problems. You can also try peening the pins to tighten them, if you know how.

Certain collectors will scream that by doing so it's not longer original.

To me, this is akin to never washing, waxing or changing the tires on antique car because it will "no longer be original."

Heidi Jo Bean said:

Thanks Frank. I was wondering if I should try to correct a slightly loose guard and wooden handles of an old MARKS & REES 1850's large knife.
The looseness isn't bad at all, maybe 1/16" or smaller, but you can feel it and hear it when you shake the knife in your hand. I researched and found that maybe soaking the handle in water for a few hours might swell the wood, and correct the problem.
I would love any input from the experienced knife collectors.

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Permalink Reply by Heidi Jo Bean on January 27, 2018 at 11:59

Thank you Michael. I really appreciate your input and advice.

Michael Z. Williamson said:

I would not soak in water. It would only work temporarily and could lead to decay of wood or metal.  You can try using an oil that would have been appropriate at the time, such as home-boiled linseed, and let the wood soak it up.  Lemon oil shouldn't cause any problems. You can also try peening the pins to tighten them, if you know how.

Certain collectors will scream that by doing so it's not longer original.

To me, this is akin to never washing, waxing or changing the tires on antique car because it will "no longer be original."

Heidi Jo Bean said:

Thanks Frank. I was wondering if I should try to correct a slightly loose guard and wooden handles of an old MARKS & REES 1850's large knife.
The looseness isn't bad at all, maybe 1/16" or smaller, but you can feel it and hear it when you shake the knife in your hand. I researched and found that maybe soaking the handle in water for a few hours might swell the wood, and correct the problem.
I would love any input from the experienced knife collectors.

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KnifeMakerPermalink Reply by Michael Z. Williamson on January 27, 2018 at 12:23

At the far end, I once acquired a Shinto era katana that Bubba had "Fixed."  He couldn't have screwed it up worse if he'd been trying to destroy it.

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KnifeMakerPermalink Reply by Paul S on January 28, 2018 at 7:33

Polishing a collector Knife can make it difficult to sell to many collectors.

  You have an "old cheap knife"- sounds like you may polish that as a user.  Some of the high carbon steel knives may get rust spots after sitting on a bureau for a  few few humid weeks.. 

  I have been appalled at sellers at knife shows polishing old collector knives or selling those with recent over sharpening.   

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Permalink Reply by Jan Carter on January 28, 2018 at 13:45

Paul,

I am one of "those" collectors.  Although Donnie prefers to keep his user polished, I prefer a user with patina.  We both appreciate a collector in it's own condition rather than someone polishing or resharpening

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