Replies to This Discussion

FeaturedPermalink Reply by Craig Henry on March 4, 2013 at 17:22

"dried epoxy glue"??? What in the world? 

I need to get a 110. Haven't owned one in a coon's age! I also liked the 112.

Permalink Reply by Ron Cooper on March 4, 2013 at 17:30

Yep! It was some type of dried glue and it was all over the blade. It was a bear to come clean, but it finally did.

I love the 112 and have a couple of those. But this is my first 110.

FeaturedPermalink Reply by Craig Henry on March 4, 2013 at 17:33

Yeah the 110 is a classic and certainly changed the modern lockback folding hunter world! 

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on March 4, 2013 at 18:53

1992

Permalink Reply by Jan Carter on March 4, 2013 at 19:05

Well thats pretty sweet a 1992 and it cleaned up REAL GOOD! what do you want to bet they stirred something with they should not have LOL

Permalink Reply by Brad T. on March 4, 2013 at 19:58

I too was late to appreciate the 110. Since the first one, I have bought 3 others. They were fixer uppers, but they are coming along nicely. They are easy to repair and modify. I currently have a blog on this forum, in which I am customizing a 110 with a Damascus blade. Check it out if you're interested.

Permalink Reply by Ron Cooper on March 4, 2013 at 20:33

Hi, D ale!

Yep, I have that same dating chart. Here's the problem I have with the tang stamp on my knife. The mark is on both sides of the - 110 - <---like that. Customarily the mark denoting the date of manufacture is only on the right side. Do you see what I'm talking about?

And, yes, Brad!

I am familiar with your blog about the 110's and even wanted to ask you a question about your project. I thought that I read something where you said you had applied mineral oil to some wood scales? I'm curious. If in fact you did say that, was there any swelling of the wood once you put the mineral oil on them? I am always quite leery about using any kind of liquid on wood. But if it would serve to rejuvenate some old wood I would love to try it.

Cheers, y'all -- and thanks!

Permalink Reply by Ron Cooper on March 4, 2013 at 21:02

BREAKING NEWS!!!

Okay, gang! The mystery has just been solved. The following has been copied and pasted from another forum's archives. It was posted by a moderator named Joe Houser who was apparently the "Director of Consumer relations Buck Knives Inc.
Buck Collectors club Liaison, Member #123"

This is what Mr. Houser posted in 2007:

QUOTE>> In 1992 the date code on our blade stamps was a dash, just after the model number. BUCK, 110-, U.S.A.
As many of our loyal forum members know, later in 1992 a second dash was added to the 110. BUCK, -110-, U.S.A.
Our engineering group gave me the explanation as to why the second dash was added. Apparantly, there was a design change in the blade radius area that warranted the stamp code change.
The goal of this design change was two fold. Make the action smoother, and eliminate an opertation in the shop. It was not a very noticeable change to the naked eye. I compared a 1994 110 blade to a 4 dot i just happened to have on my desk and any diferences were hard to see but they are there.
So there you have it, mystery solved! End Quote>>

So, there it is straight from the horse's mouth. And like he says, the mystery has been solved! Ya gotta love the internet!

Cheers!

Post script. Here is the link to the above referenced quote: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/449838-110-Folding...

Thank you Mr. Houser!

FeaturedPermalink Reply by Craig Henry on March 5, 2013 at 0:18

Cool! Isn't the internet a wondrous thing?

Permalink Reply by ken benson on March 5, 2013 at 4:22

Ron I'll take it any way. No reason you have go around with such almost defects. The wood alone makes me want this one.  If you keep yours handy next time you go to a decent knife show, Chuck Buck will autograph it his electric pencil engraver. If you starting on about how you didn't like something the custom shop did, he might get POed at me and leave  the date off  mine unlike he did everybody else. Hey maybe his  is rare like your double dash 110?   Did the previous owner seem to make everybody mad at him for no good reason too?

Permalink Reply by Brad T. on March 5, 2013 at 8:40

Ron,

I responded to this post from my phone last night, really small screen. I "assumed" the post was from a newbie, as I would have thought "the Ron Cooper" could have figured this out without posting the question and you did.

I did apply a light coat of some Howard's Butcher Block & Cutting board mineral oil to the scales I am still contemplating using. The wood I applied it to are really hard and dense, absorption and expansion are not a concern at this point.

Permalink Reply by Ron Cooper on March 5, 2013 at 13:43

Thanks, Brad! I appreciate your reply. And actually, for all intents and purposes, I am  "Newbie," and can use all the help I can get. My concern was how the wood might react after being exposed to a liquid, such as mineral oil. I guess I was just being overly cautious?

The point you raise about the wood's density would seem to negate any adverse effect from the oil. In hindsight it seems obvious that any tool that was designed to dress game in the field should be able to withstand a thorough cleansing (read: washing) afterward.

Like I said, I can use all the help I can get -- my elevator doesn't always go all the way to the top floor. Thanks!

Brad T. said:

Ron,

I responded to this post from my phone last night, really small screen. I "assumed" the post was from a newbie, as I would have thought "the Ron Cooper" could have figured this out without posting the question and you did.

I did apply a light coat of some Howard's Butcher Block & Cutting board mineral oil to the scales I am still contemplating using. The wood I applied it to are really hard and dense, absorption and expansion are not a concern at this point.