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WR Case & Sons, Bradford PA Slim Trapper question

Picked up a 100+ year old Case knife. It looks like a slim trapper but the stamp reads"R2049". The 9 could be a poorly struck 8. The celluloid scales are both cracked. The Spey blade is broke off at the choil. Question is, should I repair it to use, or just save it. The long slim clip blade has some rust on it, but it's usable. The scales could be glued? I really like the size and style of this knife. The factory doesn't have any parts for this neat old guy. What do you think?

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Replies to This Discussion

KnifeMakerPermalink Reply by Andy Larrison on January 4, 2017 at 11:00

Terry,

Happy New Year! I was wondering if you ever got around to finishing up this project? If so I'd love to see the results.

Take care,

Andy

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on January 4, 2017 at 19:14

Terry

I've a Rock Chucker Bullet Press & dies for the .223 & 22-250. My bros add to the die set w/ their own .220 Swift, 7mm, 30-06, 7-30 Waters, etc. We occasionally go to the Dakotas prairie dogging. The 7mm & up are for whitetail. Not only does it save on $ .. it allows one to match the load to the firearm. i.e. the load holding the tightest group in my .223 is not the same load that holds the tightest group in my bros .223 .. I've a TC & my bros shoots a Ruger .. different barrel lengths .. different twists .........

But .. I digress.

I am also quite sincerely interested in how it turns out.

I rather think .. it'll be pretty nice.

Enjoy

D ale

Permalink Reply by Andy Jordan on March 9, 2017 at 16:19

Terry, if you can figure out what kind of blade came off of it originally, it may be a good candidate for my blade replacement procedure as explained in my post to this group yesterday. You'd need to find a donor knife with the same type and size blade (and one that would tuck in when you fold it with the other blade). If one could be located, I could probably laser weld the donor blade to what's left of the original missing blade.

If the collector value is shot otherwise, this may be a valid option - I will say that the procedure WILL remove patina around the area of the repair because it must be finished down....Of course, most of the blade in question has no patina because it has no blade, either LOL. That stated, my procedure would keep most if not all of your original tang and tang stamp which is not possible when replacing the entire blade.