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Okay, I finally got some time last night to work with the kit I received on May 7th. Yeah, that is 3 weeks! I am busy. LOL
So, after watching the dvd and other technique videos, I used a low end Smith and Wesson SWA8 "Extreme Ops" folder as the test subject. It has a 3" hollow grind edge.
I started with the 400 grit stone, did 2 light passes on each side alternating sides between passes.
I repeated that process all the way through to the 3000 grit polishing tape.
What I ended up is the sharpest knife in my possession. If the back bevel was larger, you could use it as a mirror to shave with.
I didn't get any before shots of the edges, but we all know what a factory edge looks like. I tried to get as close as possible and stay in focus, so take alook:
Smith & Wesson SWA8 folder: Polished to 3000 grit
As I could not stand to have a sub 20 dollar knife be my sharpest implement, I pulled out the Scrapyard Scrapivore (SR101 steel 62-64Rc) and my Kershaw JYDII-CB (CPM-D2 edge) and gave them the same treatment.
So, after the first knife I felt comfortable enough to do more expensive knives with confidence. In fact, it took me only 8 minutes to do the Kershaw in the above pic.
I will have more super keen edged knives going forward...and so will some of my friends.
If you have $250 bucks to spend on a sharpening system, I would wholeheartedly recommend the Apex/4.
Tags: Apex/4, EdgePro, sharpener
Thanks for the review of the Edge Pro Apex 4, Brad
I am going to give my new Delica Damascus blade the same treatment tonight, along with whatever knives that are not sitting in my knife rolls at this moment....that count in my office alone is 4 knives. Schrade 13OT, Schrade 156OT, Benchmade Nimravus & ZT 0560.
The 13OT needs some serious edge corrections, so I get to use the 120 stone! Yippee!
Excellent job. The EP is a great tool but it still requires a bit of attention to detail IMO. You're off to a great start. Especially the mirror finish with the tapes. I never did get the hang of them. Did you use pull strokes or push strokes. If the angle is adjusted just right you can use push strokes. But I kept cutting them so I always used pull strokes. I didn't use them very much though. Your edges look great. Also you owe me a bandaid. I'm on my tablet and when I used my finger to scroll down the knife edge on one of your pictures cut my finger. lol
What angles did you use on those knives? Did you add a micro-bevel at all? Just curious. Great job.
Jack
A great write up Brad and thanks for posting this. I love the pictures and they sure look sharp! Can't wait to see the rest!
You definitely need to pay attention to where your edge is on the platform when your stroke comes to the belly of the blade. I felt that keeping the bevel from the belly to the point was the hardest section to keep consistent. I learned long steady strokes with no additional pressure to the stones, made controlling the location of the edge on the platform easier to maintain. It took more strokes but attained muscle memory developed a comfortable rhythm after about 45 seconds with each stone.The lower the grit the slower the tempo. That rhythm aided in rotating the belly to the center of the platform with out losing tempo.
But if you do not have rhythm, (rhythm is the ability to achieve multiple graceful maneuvers at the same tempo). Just stop your stroke and re-position your blade on the platform.
I have a lot of soul, but little rythm, apparently just enough to use here with success.
Jack:I believe I was using the yellow dot, 22 degrees.
You have the main thing covered already. GO SLOW AND BE ACCURATE! After a while the speed will develope with the rhythm. But the speed will be accurate. That is unless you try to speed up before the accuracy muscle memory really set in. You'll know when you are goint goo fast. The results will tell you. lol Good going. I know what you mean about getting around the belly and tip section. I think I'll try to dig up a thread I started on the Spyderco forum to share with you. It deals with making what I call EDGE GUIDE BLOCKS. They hold the blade perfectly still on the blade table. They are only good for blades with a max length of 4" and some blades not that long. The reason I made these was I was having a problem holdiing the blade still when the spine had areas that allowed the blade to pivot on the blade guide. Spyderco's are the best example. When stroking the belly and tip the blade wants to pivot on the spine where the opening hole is. My blocks keep the blade perfectly still. They work good for some blade/edge shapes and not so well for others. Sometimes they cause the actual angle of the stone edge be LOWER than what the EP is set to. This creates a wider bevel around the belly to the tip. I'll try to find it so you can check it out. The way you have started so far is the best way for all blades though. Gives you more freedom.
Keep it up and more pictures please.
Jack
Brad T. said:
You definitely need to pay attention to where your edge is on the platform when your stroke comes to the belly of the blade. I felt that keeping the bevel from the belly to the point was the hardest section to keep consistent. I learned long steady strokes with no additional pressure to the stones, made controlling the location of the edge on the platform easier to maintain. It took more strokes but attained muscle memory developed a comfortable rhythm after about 45 seconds with each stone.The lower the grit the slower the tempo. That rhythm aided in rotating the belly to the center of the platform with out losing tempo.
But if you do not have rhythm, (rhythm is the ability to achieve multiple graceful maneuvers at the same tempo). Just stop your stroke and re-position your blade on the platform.
I have a lot of soul, but little rythm, apparently just enough to use here with success.
Jack:I believe I was using the yellow dot, 22 degrees.
Here's the thread I was talking about. Check it out if you want.
http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?46425-Edge-Pro-blocks...
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