Permalink Reply by Jim on September 10, 2009 at 19:24
Hi Fellas,
Just a quick add on to Matts fire starting tips...
If (for what ever reason) all you have is a rifle, the projectile of the loaded round can be inserted into the muzzle and wiggled backward and forwards to loosen it. It will not take long before the bullet can be removed from the case.
Once the bullet and case are separated, pour 3\4 of the powder into a pile and mostly cover with your tinder.
At this point, tear of a small section of your shirt\jeans\bandana\G-String..(you choose, cotton being the best tho)and stuff it into the shell case on top of the small amount of powder remaining in it.
Carefully slide case into the chamber of your rifle ensuring the muzzle is kept pointing up..^^
Now all you need to do is fire the rifle skywards, and watch where the now smoldering peace of rag falls. Pick it up carefully and ignite your powder\tinder pile and you will have the beginnings of a good fire.
Yep, excellent tip Jim. First read about this in John Wiseman's SAS Survival Handbook (page 278). I've only tried it three times...was successful only one of the times. Hey, I guess 1 out of 3 isn't bad... At the very end of this thread, I have two YouTube videos where I actually demo most of the things listed above, including the gunpowder. I've been thinking about doing the video on the chambering of a round with cloth for a little bit after making those initial vids...sort of a follow-up expansion. Might just have to do it after all.
Thanks again Jim. Excellent idea.
Permalink Reply by Jim on September 11, 2009 at 19:04
Hi Matt.
Just watched your vid's on fire making and have downloaded them to my fire making file .Thank you for your time and effort with them as they will defiantly make another great teaching aid.
The "rag in the rifle "method mentioned has been around for eons that's for sure but like many other skills has it's own little quirks. One of them being too much powder left in the shell case .That seems to be the #1 cause of PPP.
I first read of this method in an orange covered book my Dad gave to me as a 10 year old kid, dead keen on hunting, trapping and fishing. It was called "How to Survive in the Bush, in the Mountains and on the Coast of New Zealand". This was over 40 years ago and it's a real shame the book is now long out of print.
Another little tip from that very same book may help to over come one of the problems you outlined in your fire lighting vids. As you know, when ordinary untreated store bought matches get wet, they don't work. The heads usually turn to mush when you try to strike them so they have to be dried out first. To do this, even when both you,your gear and your matches are soaked through, is fairly easy. Thirty minutes or so prior to making camp and setting up your hooch, shove 5 or 10 of those damp/wet matches into your hair and put them as close to your scalp as possible. Your body heat, will in due course, dry those puppies out to the point where you can use them..
I have used this little trick many times over the years and it works like a charm.
regards..
jim
I'm with Mr. Todd on this. Flint and Steel is by far my favorite method of fire starting. Here is a video a buddy took of me showing him how use a flint and steel.... unless I did the link wrong
I forgot about this video...still somewhat on topic. A tabasco bottle candle using a lamp wick and some lamp oil.... pretty self explanatory from there. The burn for quite a while, I like to keep one in my firekit they come in handy if you happen to find yourself with limited matches or other firestarters. Best to dip the cap in wax after it is full of oil to keep it from leaking. I have kept this one in my bag for about a year now without dipping it and it is just now about of oil.
Permalink Reply by lg&m on December 24, 2009 at 9:05
In addition to tapping into our tech-starved past, butane lighters can be mighty disappointing when it gets really cold. At a certain low, they will just quit working.
I got some new firesteels from goinggear. When I was shopping their I picked up a capsule/ whistle. I cut off the whistle part and made this little red firestarter. It has just enough room for tender and a good handle to hold onto. The white one is made from aluminum and I can replace the steel in both if I want to.
I've found that the fuel bars, wrapped in foil, have been really reliable for me. They always light for me, but I haven't put them to any real test. Recently I tried some Wet Fire tinder and was very disappointed. Had to fall back on the fuel bar!
There is a book called "The Outdoor Survival Handbook" by Raymond Mears. Read his chapters on firemaking using flint and steel, a bow drill and a hand drill. that is a real challenge to master. Also, let's not forget the trusty old magnifying glass.
the gerber blast match is cool but the manuel gerber is the best,its got a hollow hanle for trioane type fuel bars thatr included .ive used it for at keast 12 tears and its still gita lot of meat left on ti.also iy comes with 3 bars in the handle an i still have 2 an a half left it simply duznyt need them ,unless u r startig in extremly wet circumsatnces>just the mag bar is enough in most situatins its comes also with a good paracord lanyard an is housed in an super tough plastic housing.it goes in my day pack keep undr my seat at all times!