Try .... loosening all frame threaded fasteners .. does this allow lock engagement ???
Mine locks open .. BUT .. observe mating parts engagement. I.e. chamfered / tapered button lock surface .. vs .. area in tang reliefed for button engagement. The engagement of the locking parts is greater in the closed position than in the open position. NOTE: observe the degree of "engagement" @ ea position. I suspect you will find same.
Also, when all threaded fasteners are tightened .. the engagement of the mating locking parts is further minimized.
I intend to "optimize" "sand" "polish" this area for a SAFE amount of "engagement" of the mating locking surfaces ... as a FINAL step.
Dan .. do let me know what you think .. once you rec the button-lock kit .. pics of your "scale mounting" would be appreciated .. esp .. how you gonna do the hole xfer ?? .. :D :D
I finished mine up to the point where it reliably goes .. click .. click .. click and have stalled there J
Everything went together SWEET !!! I believe you’ll be very pleased with the unit .. I certainly am !!!
I ordered black linen micarta stock for scale matl .. but once I got It automated . I kind of got sidetracked .. click .. click .. click …. I still have to finish (start) on the scales.
DO machine the 0.390 (clearance on the 0375 dia coil spring) cavity into the blade .. for proper clearance for the stack height of whatever spring you end up using .. it is the way to do it right.
.. and it looks like the stack hgt will be OK .. may compress slightly.
Any suggestions on drilling the .0625 hole .. I just trashed a bit from the same set I'd successfully drilled that "Steel Warrior" copperlock for a thumbstud last yr .. no probs .. apparently that cryo-treated AUS-8's 56~58 Rc is a little closer to actual than Frost's 56~58 Rc .. go figure.
Looks like I'll need to spend some real money on a bit this time .. any suggestions ??
Here's the spring I sourced .. http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?cPath=60_85_187&products_id=476 .. am pretty sure it is the correct one .. same sa one in my Paragon .. and both the paragon & the exploded view of the assembly instructions have a machined ~ .437 dia hole @ the spring side .. to about half the depth/thickness of the blade .. which would meet up with the exixting .0625 hole. I intend to punch the .0625 hole on through the blade & assemble it that way.
Correct in observing "No Safety". Button is recessed & backed w/ ??stiff?? spring.
I've not successfully drilled the rest of the coil spring hole @ tang of blade. (it comes w/ this hole only ½ drilled .. from the wrong side !!!). So I’ve no spring installed .. yet. BUT, I anticipate NO safety concerns.
The button is recessed .. the top has a very relaxed radius .. which protrudes. The button’s retaining ring / bolster combo limit this travel (in the extreme). Also, there’s a healthy spring behind it.
Dan .. have you tried one of these .. Santa arranged a USPS delivery for me yesterday .. initial assembly is tight .. the hole for the spring (tang of blade) is only 1/2 ~ 2/3 drilled .. need harder drill bit at this time .. all else really sweet !!!
Daniel .. thanks bunches for pitching in on my MOD grp discussion .. you have a knack @ presenting useful data in a practical real life way !!
Based on my personal experience .. I believe .. lots of members have an interest in "improving" their knives with little personal modifications .. resource's might be somewhat limited .. mechanical abilities ~to~ budget considerations .. probably a little hesitent to dive in & try it ..
I started w/ simple mods .. adding a tighter radius or simple contouring to the handle .. eventually advanced to kits .. am currently wking on a DDR2 & looking for a better blade to incorporate into the project .. and certainly, dream of the future knife that will be of my own manufacture ..
I view this MOD thing as a learning experience .. if the bug catches .. could motivate a person to become a maker ..
Dale,
Thanks for the Tip...and I agree, they are nice and good quality, I actually built one from them, the DDR3 BL http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=1_13
I helped finance the production run for that model, I waited about 1 year before I got it. I put a spring in it and made it an auto. It was a good learning experience for me.
What I meant was making a folder from scratch, my own design is my goal, soon... maybe this summer.
You mentioned the first folder you make will screw together. I picked up a kit from knifekits.com http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?cPath=1_24&products_id=6
some months ago. I was happy w/ the kit. Haven't finished it yet ... desert ironwood scales ... but I was pleased w/ the quality. I think his kits have potential for alot of personalizing.
Daniel Howland's Comments
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KnifeMakerJeff Keeler said…
Happy Birthday Daniel!
Daniel, thanks for joining the Buck Knives Group.
In MemoriamD ale said…
Re: Squirt .. not locking open.
Try .... loosening all frame threaded fasteners .. does this allow lock engagement ???
Mine locks open .. BUT .. observe mating parts engagement. I.e. chamfered / tapered button lock surface .. vs .. area in tang reliefed for button engagement. The engagement of the locking parts is greater in the closed position than in the open position. NOTE: observe the degree of "engagement" @ ea position. I suspect you will find same.
Also, when all threaded fasteners are tightened .. the engagement of the mating locking parts is further minimized.
I intend to "optimize" "sand" "polish" this area for a SAFE amount of "engagement" of the mating locking surfaces ... as a FINAL step.
PM me.
In MemoriamD ale said…
In MemoriamD ale said…
In MemoriamD ale said…
Dan,
I finished mine up to the point where it reliably goes .. click .. click .. click and have stalled there J
Everything went together SWEET !!! I believe you’ll be very pleased with the unit .. I certainly am !!!
I ordered black linen micarta stock for scale matl .. but once I got It automated . I kind of got sidetracked .. click .. click .. click …. I still have to finish (start) on the scales.
DO machine the 0.390 (clearance on the 0375 dia coil spring) cavity into the blade .. for proper clearance for the stack height of whatever spring you end up using .. it is the way to do it right.
Dale.
In MemoriamD ale said…
.. and it looks like the stack hgt will be OK .. may compress slightly.
Any suggestions on drilling the .0625 hole .. I just trashed a bit from the same set I'd successfully drilled that "Steel Warrior" copperlock for a thumbstud last yr .. no probs .. apparently that cryo-treated AUS-8's 56~58 Rc is a little closer to actual than Frost's 56~58 Rc .. go figure.
Looks like I'll need to spend some real money on a bit this time .. any suggestions ??
In MemoriamD ale said…
In MemoriamD ale said…
Correct in observing "No Safety". Button is recessed & backed w/ ??stiff?? spring.
I've not successfully drilled the rest of the coil spring hole @ tang of blade. (it comes w/ this hole only ½ drilled .. from the wrong side !!!). So I’ve no spring installed .. yet. BUT, I anticipate NO safety concerns.
The button is recessed .. the top has a very relaxed radius .. which protrudes. The button’s retaining ring / bolster combo limit this travel (in the extreme). Also, there’s a healthy spring behind it.
Again, I anticipate no safety concerns.
http://www.iknifecollector.com/photo/albums/santa-2010
If I manage documentaion .. I'll post in Repair/Mod grp under something like "CA legal auto kit assembly" .. or the likes.
In MemoriamD ale said…
Dan .. have you tried one of these .. Santa arranged a USPS delivery for me yesterday .. initial assembly is tight .. the hole for the spring (tang of blade) is only 1/2 ~ 2/3 drilled .. need harder drill bit at this time .. all else really sweet !!!
CA legal auto kit (SQUIRT 2.0)
In MemoriamD ale said…
In MemoriamD ale said…
In MemoriamD ale said…
In MemoriamD ale said…
Based on my personal experience .. I believe .. lots of members have an interest in "improving" their knives with little personal modifications .. resource's might be somewhat limited .. mechanical abilities ~to~ budget considerations .. probably a little hesitent to dive in & try it ..
I started w/ simple mods .. adding a tighter radius or simple contouring to the handle .. eventually advanced to kits .. am currently wking on a DDR2 & looking for a better blade to incorporate into the project .. and certainly, dream of the future knife that will be of my own manufacture ..
I view this MOD thing as a learning experience .. if the bug catches .. could motivate a person to become a maker ..
Thanks again,
Dale.
KnifeMakerT.A.DAVISON said…
Todd
In MemoriamD ale said…
I posted a link to your tutorial "How to re-pin a Balisong" into a current repair/restore discussion ..
Dale replied to Terry Waldele's discussion 'NEW GROUP FORMED: Knife Repair, Restoration & Upgrade Group'
I hope you don't mind .. I personally found your tutorial very useful !!
Thanks !!
Thanks for the Tip...and I agree, they are nice and good quality, I actually built one from them, the DDR3 BL http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=1_13
I helped finance the production run for that model, I waited about 1 year before I got it. I put a spring in it and made it an auto. It was a good learning experience for me.
What I meant was making a folder from scratch, my own design is my goal, soon... maybe this summer.
In MemoriamD ale said…
You mentioned the first folder you make will screw together. I picked up a kit from knifekits.com
http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?cPath=1_24&products_id=6
some months ago. I was happy w/ the kit. Haven't finished it yet ... desert ironwood scales ... but I was pleased w/ the quality. I think his kits have potential for alot of personalizing.
KnifeMakerCaptJeff Saylor said…
Captain Jeff Saylor, CJS Knives
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