Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by J. R. Reeves on January 26, 2010 at 22:39

Hand sanding has always been the least desirable task involved to finishing a blade for me. I have made this chore a little easier for me by making a tool that I can use both hands while keeping pressure on the abrasive and keeping flat on the blade. I took a twelve inch mill file and attached handles to both ends. This allows me to keep even pressure all the way across the blade and offers a hard flat surface to work against those grind lines. I start with 120 grit, 320, 400 and then go to a leather backed block with 600 grit for the final finish. A popcycle stick works well in the plunge area to get those little stuburn lines out up close to the ricaso.

Permalink Reply by J. R. Reeves on January 27, 2010 at 9:59

Blade sanding tool

Permalink Reply by J. R. Reeves on January 28, 2010 at 19:38

When making a hidden tang knife, many times one has to remove material from the inside of a knife handle. I have labored doing this for years . I've made a tool that has helped me speed up the process. It really works great and one can remove alot of material quickly. It works well on stag tapers and also wood handles. I bought a couple of reciprecating saw blades and ground the backs down to make them a little smaller. I then took a nut driver and brazed the blades down in the socket side by side. I super glued the blades together on their sides. If you are not careful you will remove too much material out of the inside of your handle. They cut quick and really work better than anything I've ever tried to use.

Permalink Reply by J. R. Reeves on January 28, 2010 at 20:52

Brooching Tool

Permalink Reply by Gary Music on January 31, 2010 at 11:46

Thanks for the tips J.R.!

I use a Roto Zip to make the slot in hidden tang material, it works pretty good.................and it's fast!

Your saw blade tool will come in handy for those deep slots.

Gary Music

Permalink Reply by J. R. Reeves on January 31, 2010 at 14:48

Gary, I'm not sure what you are calling a roto zip. Could you clarify? J. R.

Permalink Reply by Gary Music on February 11, 2010 at 23:48

Glad you weren't holding your breath for this reply J.R.!

It's like a dremel tool but you make plunge cuts/slots with it's unique bits.

Permalink Reply by Terry Waldele on March 5, 2010 at 1:27

Hi, J.R. I've found router bits for my Dremel tool that may work almost as well as a Roto-Zip tool. I haven't used them for that purpose yet, though, and don't know if they're stiff enough.

Permalink Reply by J. R. Reeves on March 5, 2010 at 18:53

I use some drill bits that have been designed to cut sheet rock and other types of wood and formica. They have a cutting edge on their flutes. I get them at Harbor Freight and they work well

Permalink Reply by John Broughton, Jr. on March 9, 2010 at 15:46

Has anyone ever made grinding jigs? I am attempting to make some for profiling the beveled edge of curved bladed knives? Any tips out there?

Permalink Reply by J. R. Reeves on March 13, 2010 at 21:48

Jantz Supply offers a hollow grinding jig that can be adapted to fit a KMG or Bader grinder and possibly some other type grinder. They are not cheap and require an 8 inch wheel. There is an elevator attachment also that can be used with the jig to control the width of the grind. hope this helps. J.R.

Permalink Reply by Eugene Coates Smith Jr on August 5, 2010 at 7:30

Hi J.R....what fantastic tips!! thanks so much. I'm gonna try the sawzall blade tip and see how it works for me..thanks again!

Gene

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