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When storing your knives,what kind of oils do you use?
And do you wrap your knives in what kind of material?
Do you leave them in the boxes?
What kind of cleaners do you use?
Is there things you do different on Carbon steel vs Stainless?
An if you have over 500 knives in your collection do you have
a sch. that you clean & oil certain amount?
Thank-you for your time an answers!

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When storing your knives,what kind of oils do you use?

I only use mineral oil now. In the past, I've used Camellia Oil because I was already using it for my woodworking tools. Mineral oil is cheaper (two 16oz bottles for $8 at Wallgreens) and works well to prevent rust.

And do you wrap your knives in what kind of material?

Some of my favorite knives I wrap in ferro pak -- again, I was already using it for storage of some of my woodworking tools.

Do you leave them in the boxes?

Yes.

What kind of cleaners do you use?

I only use mineral oil both to clean and store my collectible knives. For working knives, I may use Flitz if I think it's necessary. Usually, I just clean my working knives with warm water and soap and then oil them.

Is there things you do different on Carbon steel vs Stainless?

I keep a thin layer of oil on carbon steel blades.


How about you?
When storing my knives first I clean them with simichrome polish then I take Renaissance wax and coat the blade , bolsters,& handles .Then after it dries I take a clean cloth and polish the wax in ( don't wait to long to do this as it will be harder to take off) .I store some of my knives in display case's and some in the box but I never store fixed blade knives in their sheath's except for transportation to and from a show.When needed I spray the joints of my folders with silicone lube . The Renaissance wax acts as a barrier to people 's finger prints . After this I put some in my safe with a canister that has Hydrosorbent silica gel ( there is a gage that lets me know when it has reached to much moisture then I put it in the oven for 3 hr's and reuse it after it dries out) Mineral oil is always good for the handles .

Jasco Butcher Block oil aka mineral oil

I don't wrap any knives

I store my fixed blade knifes in wooden "silverware" boxes I buy at thrift shops for like 5 bucks
Photobucket
For my folding knives I have a few wooden display cases with glass tops

Cleaners====>#ooo and #0000 steel wool and mineral oil, and very rarely, 1800-2200 grit wet/dry sandpaper

I keep light oil on both carbon steel and SS blades

Don't have 500 knives yet!!! hehehehhehe
I figure by 2013 I should be at that level.....lol
I use an try several types of oil's but Du pont makes a spray Teflon Dry Wax Lubricant
that leaves an oil wax film which I like on my blades, an I use Heavy-Duty Silicone Spray
that after your blades have been cleaned leaves a coating of silicone. But I always wrap
my knives back up an leave them in there boxes! An be careful about knife rolls if one
gases out it will rust the rest!! An I keep all my knives In a gun safe with a golden rod to
keep the temp. same year round.
Thanks Gary for the answer you left, we can never learn enough about taking care
of the knives we have!!
Now that's a nice way to store fix blades Thank's Trent
Gary where did you buy the Hydrosorbent silica Gel. and is the gauge on the can.
Steve I order it from blue ridge knives and it comes in a cannister with a glass window that you can see when to put it in the oven for drying . If you would like I can order some for you .Let me know and I will check price and shipping
what steels do you oil? Do some steels not need it like H1 steel or maybe VG-10? What qualities of steel makes oiling necessary?

I'm glad to see this discussion because I only just found out that oiling knives is necessary.

Thanks ,


Frazer
Good subject Doug! Gary gave you great advise, however; I would suggest you divide your knives in 2 groups, carbon steel and stainless steel. Additional, separate by handle materials (plastic, celluloid, acrylics and other man made materials, sometime referred as faux) Some of these materials suffer deterioration when exposed to oils, unlike natural materials (Bone, Stag, Pearle, etc). Folding knives need occasional oil of the joints (3 & 1, sewing machine or light oil) I apply with a hypodermic needle and work each open & close till blade operates smoothly. Wipe off excess, clean inter frame with a Q-tip. Bone handles need occasional oil to prevent drying (dry bone will crack easily). Case store's there bone in transmission fluid (serves 2 purposes, prevents parasites from attacking and keeps it from drying out. Simichrome is all you need to clean the blades, bolsters, liners and shields with a soft cloth or chamois.
Renaissance wax as Gary described. Storing: Best method, knife rolls for smaller knives. Large knifes with sheaths, use pouches and separate from sheath. I wrap knife in soft cloth and place in pouch with the sheath. Glass cover display cases are handy when you want to display. Exposed knives open on a table will collect spit spots during conversations (both carbon and stainless). Always wipe off before storing. Store away from lite, under some controlled environment ( moisture control and consistent temperature, cooler the better, cool air contains less moisture than hot). Note: Light exposed knives will fade quickly (dye's will leach out). Hint! Put a few sheets of bounce with your knives, will smell good and repel insects. Happy Collecting
Nice discussion here.

iv'e always wondered why knives are often sent in plastic sleeves, but you shouldn't store them in it for long periods because it holds moisture and they will rust. What's up with that?
Frazer, I wipe all my blades down with oil due to all steel will
show up with something on it later like rust ,spots, ect. even Bone
handles need care, But dont store your fix blades in there sheaths,
that will cause the steel to sweat an rust an discolor ,also take care
of your leather! All parts of a knife left unattented will have some
kind of problem later on.

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