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Hello all,

I started this group for the dedicated discussion of the Buck model 110 hunting knife because it has been said many times that any serious knife collector should have a Buck 110 in their collection for many reasons.

One of which is because the Buck 110 has been considered by some as the knife that started some of it all, with its engineering, and how its built. This is open to objection and discussion. I myself, havent done enough research to come to that conclusion, but maybe many of you have.

There is a problem that my 110 has though, and I wanted to see if anyone has had the same problem.

In my 110, the lock has enough play in it that when the knife is folded, you can push the blade down into the handle enough for the tip of it to hit the inside of the knife, and on mine, it has flattened part of the tip of the blade so it's not sharp any more.

If any of you can understand what I am describing, share your thoughts.

If you have any questions about the knife and how I can describe the problem, please comment.

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Replies to This Discussion

I believe that is because the backspring has a center pivot that rocks from side to side when opening and closing. So pushing in on the blade simply rocks (dips) it a little from the center pivot pin. I have several 110's and they all do that. Anyone else have any technical insights?
If your blade is going too far down into the handle and it is touching/wearing, you should contact Buck Knives. There seems to be a defect to me.
this were the Kick on the bottom of the blade was sanded to much
it is more common in older pre 86 knives
newer ones should not do this
if you send it to buck they may replace it
but to many it is not a bother enough to justify the postage sending it back
however it is some thing to check for before buying if you can handle it before buying
the year of moving from cal to idaho
there was more of this issue reported
I have a one year old 110 and I can push the blade in until it touches the inside of the knife as well. However, you have to push it a good 1/4" before it reaches metal. I would suggest that if this action cause dulling I would have to be pushing it down there on purpose, and with considerable force. It couldn't happen (on mine) accidentally.

Maybe if you look closely you can see that the curve on my 110 is not a perfect curve. Towards the tip the curve levels off, perhaps keeping the tip away from the inside of the knife a little longer. (look at the blade right where the curve meets the shadow on the desk.)

http://iknifecollector.ning.com/photo/buck-110-signed-by-chuck-buck...
I think if its a newer knife and you aren't always squeezing the blade. (The blade hits when you close it not when you squeeze it) that the problem is blade is just a little oversize at the tip.
Maybe try sanding the blade down a bit if you have a narrow vertical belt sander that would work perfect.

 Even good companies often have warranties that look like  examination answers from a internet  special ed law school.  If you have any doubts,  I respectfully remind you Buck has a warranty that is second to none. No questions asked, repair or replace . IMHo and experience  It is as good as the warranty from  Zippo lighters.  Those fellers even refuse to accept postage, and even repaired several non zippo lighters my brother accidently put in the box of several  we sent for repair.  I gave him heck for that. Big Mr Zippo  expert collector who didnt even know he was collecting cheap knock offs. I told him Zippo just  felt sorry for him.

Hi Nick! I couldn't resist joining this group since I bought my Buck 110 back in about '69 and still have it today. I don't wear it too much anymore except on certain occaisions when camping. I checked mine and it does that also. I don't see where it's a problem though. I used to carry it in my pocket and up in Alaska too. I wore it down in Australia too until "me mates kindly informed me that it was illegal to carry them down under". I don't know if that's true in the outback as I was in Sydney, Manly & Bondi beaches chasing the "Sheilas" (girls). No, I wasn't wearing it on the beach when I was warned about this but whatever happened to Crocodile Dundee and "now that's a real knoife" and all that? This was about '91 and I was backpacking thru Australia & New Zealand with a pal.

One bad experience was in sending the knife back to the the factory to have it resharpened as it had some pretty deep nicks in it. This was back in the early '80's. Well, they sharpened it alright but they removed too much stock from the the blade. It's still good though and I still use use it. You can't go wrong with a 110 as far as I'm concerned and YES  , I think every Buck collelector should own one. Just the plain wood grips without the finger notches is quite adequate as it IS a working knife. Use it hard-it'll take it unless something has changed. I DO have to admit, I did like those those stag or elk(?) slab handles offered on the company web, but the basic wood has been fine for me all these years.

Kent, that 110 has a storied life and he should always remind you of your many travels. Thats a good one for sure, I love the slimmer frame of the oldies. 

The 110 is hard to deny, it's a great solid user that has been around since Buck really got the ball rolling, it's a huge part of who they are today. These old knives I see just pay a homage to a great history of a Buck knife in use.

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