The online community of knife collectors, A Knife Family Forged in Steel
Mosaic pins can add SO0o very much to a knife.
Such as .. expense !!!
Note: The outermost "ring" is simply masking tape to facilitate securing the piece in the vise for pics.
And .. as pictured .. there is no adhesive.
Everything is assembled "loose" strictly for the purpose of demonstration.
Further ..something not readily evident.. is the copper tube inside the centermost square piece.
This pic being slightly out of focus doesn't help any.
For the purpose of this discussion .. I limited myself to material on hand.
I would have preferred copper pins between the outside round tube & the larger square tube.
And perhaps .. copper pins between the 2 square tubes.
But again,, I needed to limit myself to "stock on hand".
What I've pictured in this intro is just enough to provide an idea of where I'm going with this.
It is intended to simply provide a facsimile of the final appearance.
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There are a number of things one NEEDS to do to facilitate a desirable outcome.
There are also a number of things that one can do to make it far simpler than it can be.
Those are the items / concepts / ideas I hope to present in this discussion
such that
anyone interested can do this themselves.
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Understand .. your very first attempt will likely not be perfect. Nor will this one.
BUT
with a couple of mistakes ..and.. a fair amount of patience.
You will be able to do this.
It's commonly known as "the learning curve".
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I'll do the "step by step" in the comment section below.
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Enjoy
D ale.
Tags: mosaic-pin
Jan - I will definitely show results when I get to that!
Good info you gave Dale - thanks - and yes, absolutely a fired round that has no powder or live primer.
I used to reload - 9mm for me, and a .455 (British Webley revolver my dad had) back in Africa. Since moving to the US I have not taken up reloading again but I am an active hunter and shooter. And my plan was to use genuine 5.56 specifically, not .223 for exactly that reason - being a green beret (any US military for that matter) the 5.56 markings would really mean something.
And of course I want genuine brass for that, not Wolf/Tul steelcase. He has real 5.56 AR-15s, and both he and I have also built 7.62x39 ARs. My motivation was slightly heavier ammo, lower cost = more practice - but mainly because the caliber makes it deer legal. In VA as with many states, the minimum caliber is .23 which eliminates .223/5.56mm. I use my bow or muzzle loader mostly, but if I want to use the AR, I just hand feed one round and carry a few spares in my pocket. Each hunt I have used just the one round and brought home a nice pile of meat. My best shot was on his family land in Arkansas out to around 150, maybe 160 yards with that AR
My thinking on this is he will get the black acid "stonewashed" blade I am getting ready to start for him now with white sunbleached buffalo bone scales as soon as possible - it's a late 2016 Christmas / whatever present. We don't specifically do Christmas or birthday gifts - we just do whatever and say I saw it and thought of you. Then for next Christmas or birthday I'll do another and use some of my precious Patagonian Rosewood with the brass for decoration. I think that will look really nice. And for both knives, another new venture for me, a home made sheath using home tanned deer hides I liberated from the meat I already ate from my November 2015 black powder hunting. :-)
Another thing that could be interesting - not all on the same knife though, we don't want to become gaudy with gadgets - a 5.56 bullet carefully cut and inlaid in the scales.
Like my Remington Bullet collectibles with mother of pearl bullet inlays, but in this case, a thin slice of recognizable FMJ "ball" ammo. Of course being rounded that would take some careful shaping and sanding, but maybe a round carefully sliced in half could work with some careful Dremel grinding to make a suitable space for an inlay.
allanm
I understand you'd want to use a round with the military 5.56 stamping around the spent primer. I was just using the .223 round I had handy to obtain some accurate measurements.
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What you might consider with the 5.56 round split lengthwise is to cast in in some fiberglass resin. It is NASTY to work with afterwards i.e. you do NOT want to be breathing that dust. But it is quite similar to how they make micarta. They soak & then compress the cloth or linen or paper .. whatever type they're producing .. in a fiberglass resin type material. Then .. let it cure out. Also, the resin could be "dyed" such that it wasn't clear. There are a # of ways of accomplishing that .. from wood dust .. to metal dust .. to ..........
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... just a thought ...
allanm said:
Another thing that could be interesting - not all on the same knife though, we don't want to become gaudy with gadgets - a 5.56 bullet carefully cut and inlaid in the scales.
Like my Remington Bullet collectibles with mother of pearl bullet inlays, but in this case, a thin slice of recognizable FMJ "ball" ammo. Of course being rounded that would take some careful shaping and sanding, but maybe a round carefully sliced in half could work with some careful Dremel grinding to make a suitable space for an inlay.
Jan
?? Did you & Donnie ever put together some mosaic pins ??
If so .. how'd they turn out ?
D ale
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