Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Daniel Howland on January 9, 2011 at 18:18

John,

 

The pins are in the bolsters, you just cant see them because they are blended in.  Here is a pictorial that I put together on a balisong knife I re-pined. It should give you a general idea.

 

http://www.iknifecollector.com/photo/how-to-repin-a-balisong

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on January 9, 2011 at 20:13

 

John,

 

I’ve taken an Old-Timer apart that indeed had a unique “pinning approach” that would have been absolutely wonderful for an automated or semi automated production process. As I recall .. the center back spring pin is the key. It is the last one installed in the assembly process & should be the first one removed for disassembly. It is the one which locks the entire knife assembly together.

 

The pivot pins / hinge pins for the blades have a “nail head” .. and the mating bolster had a “slot” into which the pin’s nail-head locked.

 

Re: HOBO knives. Similar pins are often used. These pins lock the assembly together into a single unit  when the knife is closed. When a (unique/specific) blade was opened .. the unit can be dis -  assembled into component form .. knife / fork / spoon.

 

Might I suggest …. … …

 

• Find an inexpensive beat up won’t feel bad about destroying Shrade Old-Timer of the same vintage. i.e. produced the same time & likely using the same process.

 

• Destroy it .. intelligently.

 

§         i.e. plan the attack .. I’d suggest drilling / pressing  out the center backspring pin as the first disassembly step .. Dan’s pictorial documentation of his repining of a bali-song is a great place to start for prepping on that step.

 

§         Document the process .. pics .. before during after. Dimensions .. what sizes are those pins .. what drill bit size …….. the more thorough the documentation .. the more info obtained / retained.

                                                      

• Once the center backspring is removed .. the knife sides .. (respective liner / scale / bolster assemblies) .. will slide / shift laterally about 3/8’s of an inch .. which will then allow the entire knife assembly to be dis – assembled into it’s component parts.    …… again, analogous to the disassembly of many a current HOBO knife.

 

 

 

 

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on January 9, 2011 at 23:01

… shift laterally about 3/8’s of an inch …

 

!!! .. O0ops .. !!!

 

The shift will be about  ³/₁₆   or  0.187”

 

Permalink Reply by John Otis Swatsell on January 10, 2011 at 22:04

Thanks for all the good information.  The part that has me stumped is how to place a new blade on the hammer headed pin and re-Align it.   I am sure I will have to string the blad on the pen and then spreading / forge the head on the little pin.  The Jig for that would be easy enough, I have new brass liner materials. 

 

Food for thought, for sure.   Thanks again,

John

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on January 10, 2011 at 22:45

 

Oh yeah .. those unique lil hammer headed pins .. you find a ready source on those .. please share !!!

 

Just a thought .......

 

Determine the dia of the pin .. I’m guessing 5/64~0.078  … 3/32~0.093 .. see if brass hobbyist tubing can be sourced w/ equivalent OD ..  cut-n-sand a small section to the required length

 

Hard part .. source a threaded fastner that will go through the brass tubing ..  ultimately to be  tightened in place to form the “nail heads” or “caps”

 

……………………..……………………….. OR ………………………………………………………

 

Obtain a pc of pin stock of the appropriate dia .. obtain some flat stock of the same matl .. thickness = thickness of existing “nail heads” .. have a bit of patience set aside !!!

.. fabricate the caps from the flat stock .. i.e. make washers to solder on the ends of the pin stock

.. drill a cntr hole = dia of pin stock & cut the OD (could even be sq shape) to fit the slot in the liner/bolster combination

.. trim a pc or two of the pin stock to length .. check the notes on the one you destroyed for the OAL of the original pin

.. if the cntr hole in the fabricated cap was drilled to a dia = pin dia .. it’ll be an interference fit .. sand the end of the pin down & tap it in place .. then solder

.. install on blade & repeat above step

 

……………………….…………………….. OR ………………………………………………….

 

Ya find a ready source … please share !!!

 

Permalink Reply by John Otis Swatsell on January 16, 2011 at 9:31

May be of interest,  Not Sure.  :)

 

Here is the junker that was suggested to use. 

I have a shoe box full of these that I have found over the years.

I am almost sure that they are not knives that everyone wants.

However, they are from the era that was made in the USA.

Since this picture, I have disassembled this knife.

Someone had already ripped the clip ( king ) blade out of this one, so I decided to experiment on it.

I also found some brass for the back  pin.  I am going to try to re-create the pin that holds the bladed in place.

After some thought, I have drawn, what I think will replace the clip blade. I want to forge the pin with the heads on it,  and the blade.   The blade will have to be strung on the pin before the second head is made on the pin.  The only tricky part I can see is winding up with the pin the right length.

Guess I will see if I can make it happen. 

I will present more pictures later.   Oh by the way this is the condition that I found the knife in.

You can see that someone had been kinda brutal with the removal of the clip blade.

 

Raining in Houston today.   Sitting in my "shop" staring at a cup of coffee......  Yawnn......!

Maybe a good day to ponder on this and TAKE A NAP.

 

 

 

Permalink Reply by John Otis Swatsell on January 16, 2011 at 9:43

Another post,

 

You all feel free to throw down and send me your thoughts.  I so much appreciate all the good advice so far.

What would you folks think about putting some really pretty material on the handles?

I have mixed emotions about that.   The Old Timer badge on the blade is loose, and will come out with no effort.

Yesterday I processed some beautiful Mesquite in 1-1/2" x 5" blanks and it looks really nice.

Oh I forgot to mention, I was in a hardware store this last week and found some of the most beautiful oak material I have seen in a long time.  I plan to prepare it into blanks for future projects.   My buddy over on Ivory Mountain in Alabama collects antlers and bone.  He is shipping me some more antler to "pickle"

 

Hope everyone is having a GREAT weekend.