Replies to This Discussion

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on June 9, 2010 at 11:37

Terry

McMaster Carr stocks these down to 5/64" (0.078") diameter .. specified for drilling matl as hard as 70Rc .. they are pricey though .. http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/2427/=7gir9w .. then scroll to the btm .. the “ Ultra Duty Carbide Drill Bits for Tool Steel and Dies.” section.

Permalink Reply by Slade Ingram on June 9, 2010 at 15:53

Google "Enco Tools". They carry a large selection of drill bits. The hardest are solid carbide, brittle and expensive. For holes that do not need to be very precise, you can use carbide tipped masonary bits. They'll drill hardened steel pretty well.
Next in hardness are cobalt drills, very good in most hard steels. Then you have HSS (high speed steel), these are the everyday variety of drill bits.
Another trick you can try is to get a box (big enough to bury your knife in) full of vermiculite (get it at a greenhouse or nursery supply). Using a small torch, heat ONLY the area you want to drill (maybe 3/4"-1"across) until red hot, then bury deeply in the vermiculite and let it cool down very slowly, like overnight. It should drill pretty good then.
One other trick that works sometimes (I don't always have good luck with this one) is heat the spot you want to drill until red hot then let it air cool until the red is gone (do this in a darkened room) then quench in water. This usually takes enough temper out out to allow drilling. Sometimes I have to repeat to get it soft.

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on June 9, 2010 at 17:46

Thanks Slade !!!!!!

Permalink Reply by Terry Waldele on June 10, 2010 at 6:19

Thanks, Slade. I've tried cobalt, carbide and masonry drills with no success, so now I'll try some of your tricks. Thanks for the great advice!

Permalink Reply by Terry Waldele on June 10, 2010 at 6:21

Thanks, Dale. I'll check McMaster Carr's drills ASAP. Great tip!

Permalink Reply by Jan Carter on June 15, 2010 at 19:59

OK, First let me say I am sure glad you guys are here. Donnie had been working on putting scales on fixed blades. A friend has some elk and deer horn but I understand it has to be stabilized. I know I have bought stabilized scales to have knives handles redone but have no idea what that process consists of. Can someone help??

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on June 15, 2010 at 20:39

.. there is a process where pressure is exploited to impregnate porous materials with a resin .. then allowing the result to harden .. was under the impression this was primarily used on wood based matl .. wasn’t aware it was being used w/ other matl .. in theory .. certainly could ..

Permalink Reply by J.J. Smith III on June 15, 2010 at 23:28

I'm of the opinion that elk and deer antler will outlast us. I'm with Dale, don't think that it needs to be stabilized either.

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on June 16, 2010 at 0:45

Jan .. I've some knives scaled in stag that are older than I .. pretty sure they were not stabilized .. they're holding up .. as well as I am .. hehe

I'm aware of 2 varients in the process ...

#1) Porous matl is placed in a controlled environment. The pressure is evacuated. Fluid is introduced while in a low pressure state. The pressure is increased. Presumably to the pt of saturation. Manufacturing reality .. to the point where the porous substrate contains "enough" fluid to be stabalized.

#2) Porous matl is placed in a sealed fluid bath & the pressure is increased to the pt of saturation. Think of the old wooden railroad ties.

Permalink Reply by Slade Ingram on June 16, 2010 at 9:16

I haven't actually tried this, BUT, a friend of mine talked of of putting some 24 hr.cure epoxy and some wood to be stabalized into one of these seal-a-meal bags and pulling a vacuum on it for several hours, then removing the wood and letting it dry in the sun til hard. I believe he said the epoxy had been thinned with some acetone. I never heard the results, but it might be an interesting experience. Sadly, he is not here any longer, so we'll have to do our own learning.

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on June 16, 2010 at 10:02

.. make that 3 varients ..

... should certainly wk .. imo, the key is the "saturation" or the required degree of .. (Slade ~ think "case hardened") .. if one were doing this to an already contoured darn near finished scale .. the layer of soaked in epoxy that stabilizes the scale matl upon hardening wouldn't need to be that thick ..

... in the time critical production environment .. pressure is used to speed up the process of attaining the required level of saturation while simultaneously insuring uniform results .. @ hm .. it's less time critical & probably does not require anything approaching even 75% saturation ..

... insure the scale matl is DRY and ready to soak up the stabilizing solution.

... still would use caution w/ bone & antler. Is anybody else doing it to this matl ??? I've had horn matl delaminate .. never antler or bone ........

Permalink Reply by Jan Carter on June 16, 2010 at 18:26

Thank you all!!!!! I think the general idea is dont worry about it..We will just use the antlers and you are correct,my guess is they will outlast us all. Donnie is 63 years old, I keep telling him he has to be aorund to walk our 1 yr old grand daughter down the isle. Think I can now tell him he has to stay around on this earth as long as they last? Thanks again, Jan

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