The online community of knife collectors, A Knife Family Forged in Steel
This group is hosted by D ale, for knife enthusiasts who are interested in repairing, modifiying, restoring or improving knives, including fixed blades, folders and automatics of all types.
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Latest Activity: on Tuesday
Started by Andy Larrison on Tuesday. 0 Replies 0 Likes
This Case trapper started out as a 2 bladed purple barnboard jigged bone knife. Had a fella aske me to make it a 3 blade and add some filework to it. I used a spey blade from a donor trapper and modified it into a wharncliffe blade for the 3rd…Continue
Started by Kevin D. Last reply by Lars Ray Nov 13. 11 Replies 3 Likes
Good Evening!I just acquired a USN MK2 knife a couple of days ago. The grip's leather discs were horribly dehydrated, and the guard was a bit bent; but for the most part, it was in pretty good shape. It really needed some cleaning and just a touch…Continue
Started by Kevin D Sep 21. 0 Replies 2 Likes
I found this old fillet knife literally in pieces.The blade was bent. The tang was warped. The handle was too small (in my opinion). And the mechanical connection of the tang behind the handle was destroyed. The edge being useless was an obvious…Continue
Started by Andy Larrison. Last reply by Andy Larrison Jun 12. 4 Replies 2 Likes
Had to try one out, so I sacrificed a jigged black synthetic handled razor and added some mammoth bark ivory that had some great character. First razor I've ever done, very easy pattern to work with.…Continue
Started by Andy Larrison Mar 13. 0 Replies 0 Likes
Had a customer reach out wanting me to barehead and add stag to this great Old Timer. Original handles and box can be seen in the pictures.…Continue
Started by Andy Larrison. Last reply by J.J. Smith III Feb 25. 5 Replies 0 Likes
Recently removed the original black covers and replaced them with European red stag on this 1972 Case Sodbuster. Original covers can be seen lying to the left of the knife.…Continue
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Just finished restoring an old, really beat up "hunting knife" called a Siberian Skinner and made by Anton Wingen, Jr. of Germany.
I found one for sale on-line and the seller was kind enough to provide some information about the knife and its maker, and I quote:
"Anton Wingen Jr. ceased operations and closed their doors in the early 1990's. However, for nearly 120 years they were one of Solingen's finest makers and produced some knives of incredible quality. In addition to their own high-quality knives, Wingen also made knives under contract for other top makers including Kershaw. I've collected and researched Wingen knives extensively for many years and I've never seen another example of this knife. I could also not find any examples in any old Wingen catalogs, so I really don't know how old it is other than to say that it likely pre-dates 1960 by quite a bit."
The seller must not have looked very hard for other examples of this knife, because I found a number of them on-line. Also, they are being reproduced today by Linder, but not in the same exact configuration. For example, the repros have only a half guard, and it's made of nickel silver, while the repros' pommel is made of brass instead of the original aluminum.
I found this knife in a local antique store, and it was in pretty bad shape cosmetically, but very sound structurally. The blade was badly pitted with rust, and was heat treated so hard that I couldn't remove all the pitting even after about 6 hours of electric and hand sanding. That's OK though, because I preserved most of the stamped labels on the blade, especially the knife's name prominently displayed on one side of the blade. I love the lines of this knife, but can't help but wonder if calling it a "skinner" was an attempt at "political correctness", considering the length and shape of its blade, which is just under 8 inches long and too long for skinning. I suspect this knife was actually intended to be a fighting knife, and not a skinning knife. What do you folks think?
So did I somehow miss the pics of the completed knives?
Dan, I'm having difficulty viewing the entire video .. the connection's been slow lately .. I'll just need to keep trying. I'm getting just enough to be tantalizing. I did however Google & find some text explanations (sales lit) to refresh my memory.
Now I remember one of the distinct advantages to having parallels above/below a die box. Among other things .. going in between the parallels made slug removal pretty easy .. w/o adding height to the die. I've also seen bolster plates that look like swiss cheese .. I don't want to do that to my table. Parallels are on the list !!!
And one way or another .. I'll get the video downloaded. Thanks again, Dan !!!
Dale, this should answer your question about parallels: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlLVEXXlFnY
Clamping kit. Oh yeah .. I forgot about those handy .. (really really handy) .. step devices. They made clamping dies down in a press real easy. They're on the wish list now !!!
Dan .. some nice links there .. Thank You !!!
The mill came w/ 2 t-slot nuts & bolts .. one of the vices comes w/ a couple .. and there are 2 more w/ the rotating table that I was hoping would be enough to get me started .. not sure they’re all 7/16 though .. but, I do know what you mean !!!
The parallels .. they’re to get the piece your working on closer to the head .. or within the range of the head .. very precisely ... ??? correct ???.
Dan, my background is Engineering w/ 17 yrs of that in a steel fab environment. However, I spent more time behind a monitor designing & 3D CAD than I did hands on in the prototype shop. Twas a great experience though & will hopefully give me a leg up on this machining fun !!!
Nice link on the videos .. Thank You !!! I've never "trammed" a mill. I was involved in paralleling the head / bed of some old Danly presses .. 6’ * 8’ bed size .. that we ran in production. Some smaller Minster presses too. I may rent the video which covers the tramming procedure .. since it will be one of the first things I do after cleaning & initial set-up.
I don’t need to re-invent the wheel on any of this .. i.e. it would be good to watch somebody that knows what they’re doing do it first before I get into it !!
You have a point on the belt drive. And .. this mill is so I can make knives .. which isn’t exactly going to require hogging off a ½ inch of matl just to get a thick chunk down to wking size. I’ll certainly be cutting 0.062” brass sheet & flat stock .. the same for some SS for liner lock mechanisms .. but nothing much thicker than 0.125”. It should be easy enough to stay w/i the specs of the machine. So, you’ve a valid point. I will eventually upgrade to a belt drive .. as the budget more readily accepts.
Jan & Terry ………………. Yuppers .. I do love that girl :)
Dale,
Your sweetheart really IS a sweetheart. Congrats
Here is a good place for educational videos: http://smartflix.com/store/video/91/MiniMachines-101-Mill
As far as the belt kit, thats your choice, my thought is as long as you stay within the limits and capabilities of your machine, you should not dammage the gears.
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