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In Memoriam Comment by D ale on December 17, 2019 at 21:11

Bruce,

I have a mini-mill & used to do very similar to what your currently thinking. I would center punch the pin to be removed & would then drill (using a drill slightly undersize) the said pin to a depth of  ~0.031".  I would then use (again, slightly undersize of the given pin) & drift out the pin using the punch. Unfortunately, the used pins often become bent our out line from use. I would then drill to a deeper depth & try drifting the pin out again. Sometimes it didn't work out quite the way I'd hoped.

After perusing a # of other forums .. I discovered an almost universal method. I see it used by so many others ..simply because.. it works. That method is to use utility type razor blades. You start by edging the utility blade between the liner & the blade ..or.. between the liner & the back spring. Slowly but somewhat forcefully the utility blade is forced into the pin, which will shear the pin. Sometimes more than one utility blade will be required.

NOTE: I am currently working on a project that required full disassembly. See pic.

I did not have any utility razor blades in the house & wasn't about to run into town for any. One thing I do have in my house is an abundance of knives. go figure. What I very successfully used was an old used up Catt kitchen knife. The spine of the blade measured on 0.045" thick .. ideal. It worked quite successfully. And big Kudos to the old Catt. Take a look @ the Catt blade's edge & you'll not see a single notch @ the cutting edge of the Catt after shearing all 3 required pins. 
If a slight burr is present @ the btm of the sheared pin .. either sand out the burr ..or.. use a dremel cut-off wheel (lightly) till you removed any burr left from the shearing action. Generally speaking, I can usually just drift the pins out using a punch w/o any additional clean-up of burrs left from the shearing action.

Also .. by utility type razor blades .. I mean those pictured below.

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 17, 2019 at 19:46

Questions are always useful when trying to figure out a problem.  I think we worked the problem well.  I think the only way to make the marriage work and come out with a good knife will be to take them both apart and use the best parts.  It may be a little tricky to fit the scale from one to the frame of the other, but that's a bridge to cross when it is met..  My thought is to drill out the center pivot and then the blade axle.  Any thoughts about this approach?

In Memoriam Comment by D ale on December 17, 2019 at 12:45

Thanks for the response, Bruce. Feedback keeps me doing this.
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I'm glad to hear the H&B w/ MOP worked out for you. I know I queried a # of questions before giving an actual response. I just wanted to insure of providing the best possible approach. Again, pleased to hear it worked out just fine for you !
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Yet another question, will you be completely dis-assembling the LB7 w/ used up blade ?
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Thanks again for the feedback, I personally appreciate it ..plus.. other members can also benefit from the "it worked" point. 

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Regards,

D ale

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 16, 2019 at 20:20

Hi D ale,

Sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner.  I tried the epoxy route on the H & B MOP knife and it worked a treat!  The scale is tight and no damage to anything.  I still have to do the clean up on the whole knife, but now I will definitely feel it worth the effort.  

I also ordered the Schrade LB7 with the used up blade.  The frame is slightly bent, but I think it is totally repairable.  Will start on this one soon and let you know how it progresses.  Thank you for the reassurance I needed to tackle these projects.  I'm not one to shy away from a new challenge, but just wasn't positive I was headed the right direction.  Thanks, again.

Bruce

In Memoriam Comment by D ale on December 7, 2019 at 19:07

While pearl is simply beautiful, it is also quite fragile. 

I believe this to be the safest approach.

D ale

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 7, 2019 at 18:49

D ale,

Guess I will have to get some epoxy.  I have used a good deal of it over the years, but have none currently.  Also just picked up a couple of small clamps today that will be perfect to hold everything together.  Thanks for all the help and suggestions.  This should be worth the effort when done.  

Bruce

In Memoriam Comment by D ale on December 7, 2019 at 15:41

Bruce,

That's exactly where I was headed. I would NOT use superglue, as it sets up way to quickly. I would suggest a good 2-part epoxy w/ a 5 min cure time .. min.

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NOTE: Rule of thumb is the longer the cure time .. the stronger the bond.

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I would not mix up very much of the epoxy as you will not be needing much. I would suggest a toothpick or a sharpened bamboo barbecue skewer to insert the epoxy into the area of the gap. Squeeze it together enough to remove the excess epoxy. Then, one could hold it in place till it sets up. Personally, I use a padded clamp to hold it tight for an extended period to insure a complete cure time. Also, I'd suggest wrapping it in wax paper during clamping.
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Addendum: I sent you a "friend request" to facilitate PM'ing you some links to where others have done the same on some of the other forums I belong to.
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Enjoy,
D ale

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 7, 2019 at 7:43

Yes, it does.  I cleaned the pearl and the liner as much as I could with 400 grit abrasive in the gap, but don't know if epoxy or some other adhesive will bond the two together.  I assume that if I had some way to peen the brass pin that would probably hold.  But I am not about to attempt that and have the pearl break. 

Bruce  

In Memoriam Comment by D ale on December 6, 2019 at 18:09

Re: pearl knife.

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?? does the gap close up if you squeeze the effected area of the knife between your finger & thumb ??

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 6, 2019 at 16:49

Got it.  Thanks for the pointer.  It should be fun and informative to marry these two and come up with one usable knife.  Any thoughts on the MOP?  I am very aware of the fragile nature of this material.  Am also aware that working with it can be risky healthwise, so don't plan to do any abrasive work with it.  Had a custom knife maker friend in Illinois years ago that warned me about the potential health risks.  He has since gone to his reward, but was a knife maker of the first order in my opinion.  Thanks again for the help so far.    

Bruce

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