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My free-hand sharpening technique

I made some videos to show the technique I use for free hand sharpening. I've tried different ways to hold the knife as well as other things but this one is the easiest to learn to do. I believe someone new to sharpening would advance faster using this method only because it only has two basic hand movements to maintain a consistant angle throughout the stroke. Also, the bevel will be a consistent width from the edge heel to the tip. One video is omitted and a couple are cut off a couple of seconds at the end but I think the info is covered. Please ask any questions about something I didn't make clear or left out if you want. This is the best method (if there is a best) because of it's simplicity. Easy to learn and easy to do with consistency.

Part 1

http://s800.photobucket.com/user/jackknifeh/media/Sharpening/Free%2...

Part 2

http://s800.photobucket.com/user/jackknifeh/media/Sharpening/Free%2...

Part 3

http://s800.photobucket.com/user/jackknifeh/media/Sharpening/Free%2...

Part 4

http://s800.photobucket.com/user/jackknifeh/media/Sharpening/Free%2...

Part 5 omitted

Part 6

http://s800.photobucket.com/user/jackknifeh/media/Sharpening/Free%2...

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Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Steve Hanner on April 13, 2014 at 12:33

OK Jack! I will take a look at these. Hopefully it's not too different from what I am doing as it's hard to teach an old dog new tricks!

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by Terry Ray on April 13, 2014 at 12:34

Great info thanks

Permalink Reply by Steve Hanner on April 13, 2014 at 12:43

OK questions on Part 1 which I just viewed. I understand the angle and the locking your wrist. I even understand the lifting of the handle to sharpen the tip without rounding off. The return is where I have a question. Is it brought back on the stone or just above it?

Permalink Reply by Jack Haskins, Jr. on April 13, 2014 at 12:49

On the stone. When the knife is at the stone with the handle raised,just bring it back to you as you LOWER the handle. When the knife is back to you the heel of the edge is back on the stone. It is exactly the reverse of stroking away from you

Steve Hanner said:

OK questions on Part 1 which I just viewed. I understand the angle and the locking your wrist. I even understand the lifting of the handle to sharpen the tip without rounding off. The return is where I have a question. Is it brought back on the stone or just above it?

Permalink Reply by Jack Haskins, Jr. on April 13, 2014 at 12:53

I remember when I first tried this technique I wasn't sure lifting the handle would create a consistant bevel width. It does. The more accurate your stroke is the more consistant the bevel width will be. The edge bevel width is a picture of your accuracy.

Permalink Reply by Steve Hanner on April 13, 2014 at 12:55

Using my left hand ...hmmm well I have one and sometimes it cooperates! However little chance I have the same confidence in it as my right. So for us "heavy righty's" is there any hope for a balanced knife?

Permalink Reply by Jack Haskins, Jr. on April 13, 2014 at 12:56

Refressure.
Lock your wrist, hand and fingers while holding the knife at your chosen angle. Don't hold the knife so tight your hand gets tired.

Permalink Reply by Jack Haskins, Jr. on April 13, 2014 at 13:04

It took me some getting used to. But I wanted both hands to do exactly the same thing and I wanted to be seeing the same thing no matter which side of the edge I was working on. I think it helps a lot to use both hands but for those who can't or just don't want to I'm sure using the same hand for both sides is doable. Just check for any differences on opposite sides of the edge. If they are differend just make adjustments and log them into memory (brain and muscle memory).

The edge will tell us how accorate we are.

Steve Hanner said:

Using my left hand ...hmmm well I have one and sometimes it cooperates! However little chance I have the same confidence in it as my right. So for us "heavy righty's" is there any hope for a balanced knife?

Permalink Reply by Steve Hanner on April 13, 2014 at 13:22

Well I watched them all and I must say it does make it much easier in a way. I mean no stropping, just keep the handle angle and it gets done.

The paper test looked good and the Spydie seemed to make quick work of things. Will have to give that a try. Any thoughts on the stones to use ?

Permalink Reply by Jack Haskins, Jr. on April 13, 2014 at 13:37

The stones I used are Shapton glass 320, 1k, 4k and 8k. I absolutely love these stones. I cN't explain it but they took some getting used to. It seemed I could get a better edge with the Spyderco ceramic stones. But now I'm getting the "feel" of the Shaptons and the results are really great. I believe this method is the best (for me) and can be adopted by anyone. But, if someone tries it and isn't getting the best results at first I hope they don't give up on it. Any technique requires practice and this one is no exception. Murray Carter said in one of his videos that it's best not to switch using stones all the time because stones require getting used to. When I heard him say that I started using ONLY my Shapton glass stones and it has paid off. I have the Spyderco fine and UF stones also and I'll use them for a quick touch up but whwn the edge needs a lot of work I only use the Shapton's. For now I've quit using my EP also just to get very good at free hand. Why you ask? After all the money and time to master the EP. I just WANT to become proficient at free-hand sharpening. :)

Jack

Steve Hanner said:

Well I watched them all and I must say it does make it much easier in a way. I mean no stropping, just keep the handle angle and it gets done.

The paper test looked good and the Spydie seemed to make quick work of things. Will have to give that a try. Any thoughts on the stones to use ?

Permalink Reply by Steve Hanner on April 13, 2014 at 13:45

Ok I have all but the 320 I would have to start on the 1K I believe.

Jack Haskins, Jr. said:

The stones I used are Shapton glass 320, 1k, 4k and 8k. I absolutely love these stones. I cN't explain it but they took some getting used to. It seemed I could get a better edge with the Spyderco ceramic stones. But now I'm getting the "feel" of the Shaptons and the results are really great. I believe this method is the best (for me) and can be adopted by anyone. But, if someone tries it and isn't getting the best results at first I hope they don't give up on it. Any technique requires practice and this one is no exception. Murray Carter said in one of his videos that it's best not to switch using stones all the time because stones require getting used to. When I heard him say that I started using ONLY my Shapton glass stones and it has paid off. I have the Spyderco fine and UF stones also and I'll use them for a quick touch up but whwn the edge needs a lot of work I only use the Shapton's. For now I've quit using my EP also just to get very good at free hand. Why you ask? After all the money and time to master the EP. I just WANT to become proficient at free-hand sharpening. :)

Jack

Permalink Reply by Jack Haskins, Jr. on April 14, 2014 at 9:38

I was looking around here and noticed a thread I started a while back. Here is the link

http://www.iknifecollector.com/group/knifesharpeners/forum/topics/f...

This thread is actually the decision to go with the "lift handle" technique. The "don't lift handle" technique works also but is much more difficult to understand and perform. It is for me anyway. It requires more complicated hand movements. Lifting the handle is an easier to learn method making it the better one. It will produce good results much faster because of the simplicity. My opinion only.

Jack