Hello John,

Bill DeShivs can do anything you need done to any knife. His website is BillDeShivs.com Tell him John6553 recommended that you get in touch with him.

I have Bill work on all my knives. 

Good luck your new friend on iKC forum,

John

Thank you very much!

A rebuild done by T Bose

First things first. Ron, you did a great job of peening that pin! I'm looking forward to seeing the final result on your project!

And, Jan! Tony's rebuild looks great. But, of course, I would expect nothing less than a first rate effort from Mr. Bose. It's always nice to have a couple of donor knives just laying around, too!

Thanks for sharing, everyone!

I really need to start looking around more on here. I had no idea this group was here. Glad it is though.

Welcome Max !!

Hey guys,

There is a drilling question in here from Pappy.  Can someone help answer it please?  As always, thanks to everyone we get info from in here, it is a great way to share and help!

http://www.iknifecollector.com/group/kniferepairrestorationupgradeg...

@ Jan .. would you direct me to question please .. I could not find @ the link you provided.

found it .. will answer yet tonight.

Certainly Dale, thanks

http://www.iknifecollector.com/group/kniferepairrestorationupgradeg...

That is sweet !  I am currently working on a Schrade Uncle Henry, folder, that was cast into the garbage after our neighbor had passed on. He used it in the concrete business for years, I am wanting to resotre it using African Blackwood for the handles and Elephant Ivory for the emblem, opposite the side where the original will be, I have a question for Mr. Eduardo; How do I drill out the ends without damaging them? I guess you cal then the bolsters?

Pappy asked the question

Schrade Uncle Henry knives (many of them anyway) used a unique fastening system @ the ends. i.e. the pivot pin does not go through the bolster .. as is the case with most folders. Instead .. the pivot pins have heads on either end that slide into a groove in the frame & lock in place. 

If it is the type I'm thinking of .. the center pin in the backsprings should be removed first .. then the sides will slide forward / backward & allow the locking pins to disengage from the frame & the entire knife will dis assemble @ that point.

 Hope that helps 

If one still wishes to drill through holes in the bolsters .. I suggest careful measurement in locating the hole .. cntr punch the location .. clamp the part securely in place .. flat side down .. supported by & clamped to a flat surface .. in a drill press .. slow speed .. 'n use cutting oil.

Note the "strange hole" in the lower frame half.

take a look here

Just joined this group.  Recently I've gotten interested in modifying pocket knives on a low level.  Mainly making scales for my knives with screw construction.  Don't know how far this will go.  So far it's gone as far as I can go with limited money.

Here is a recent project I did.  Kirinite lava-flow scales on a Spyderco Jester.

Jester%2C%20kirinite%20lava-flow%20B%20closed.JPG

Those scales look great on that Spydie! Nice work, Jack!

Nice looking scales Jack!

This is a little off topic, but I need someone out there to help me find some basic tools and supplies for repair of old folders.  I'd like to find one of those little knife repair anvils with the stepped top.  I have punches, and know where to get more.  I also need a good source for brass and nickel silver wire in various gauges to use for pins (rivets).  I could also use some tips on finishing carbon steel blades.  I have some felt wheels,- hard felt - and various compounds, but I would like to know  how to get that mirror finish.  I have a bag of crocus of iron, but I need to know what hardness of felt to use with it, - hard, flint hard, etc. -  and what to mix with it to build up a (head) on the wheel for this finishing task.  Information on inches per second for wheel speed would be helpful.  I don't have a nice 2 inch vertical belt grinder yet.  Just wheels and a small 1" JET belt grinder so far.  I have the skills, and many tools, but I need help on how to apply those skills to pocket knife repair.  Info on any of these issues would be helpful.       

Mike,  I can tell you how I clean up knives for people and I hope it helps.  As to where to find thinks, I have a great collection of knife related links on my blog that should speed up your research time in finding tools and knife supplies:  http://texasknives.org/.  As for the polishing, I use a sewn mulsin buff (http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=223_225_176_511)  with 50% chrome Green Rouge for most of my polishing needs.  I use this on blades, bolsters and handle material if it is hard.  This rouge will melt or burn soft handle material.  I use this for most polishing and cleaning duties on blades in pretty good shape or as a final polish.  If there are heavy scratches or substantial corrosion or abuse then I hand sand the blades first.  I start with 60 grit until all scratches are gone and only go length wise.  Then I go to a 100-250 grit.  Then to a 400-600 grit, and then a 1200 grit.  I also have some higher sandpaper I can get into the thousands and microns.  Lastly I go back to the buffer with the green rouge.  I have both a 1" x 30" belt grinder and a 2" x 72" belt grinder.  I use these for profiling, shaping, and blade geometry grinding.  But when trying to polish I hand sand and buff.  I hope this helps.  I have an old anvil I don't use if you are interested.  It is probably bigger then you want though.  I will answer any questions you have if I can.  Thanks, Vance.  

Hi Vance.  I've been doing blade refinishing using roughly the same way that you describe here.  I do the step sanding all the way up to the thousands and microns, then the polishing.  I've used the green rouge.  the thing I don't do is use the sewn cotton buffing wheels.  I find that they knock off the sharp grind lines I've been so careful to maintain through the whole process.  What I want to do is finish up with a hard felt wheel, and crocus of iron compound.  That's what the old makers used. and that's why their grind lines and swedges look so fine and sharp.  It gives the blades that faceted look.  What I need to know is what hardness of felt wheel to use with the compound I have for "crocus polishing".  There are hard, rock hard and flint hard.  These wheels are expensive.  They can get into the hundreds of dollars depending on the diameter and width.  I want to be certain that I'm using the right wheel before I apply the "head" as the old blade finishers used to call it, when they would prepare a wheel for polishing.  I have the sewn rag wheels, but as Bernard Levine Says; "You would never see a sewn rag wheel anywhere in the old knife factories.  The just didn't use them."  I think hard felt is the way for me to go.  The other bit of information I need, is wheel speed in inches per second, or IPS.  Then I can set the speed correctly, no matter what my wheel diameter is.  Thanks for the reply, but I think other info is still needed.   

Thanks for the informative reply.  So far, when I reply to a post, I learn more from the replies to my post, than I provide in info.  This is a great site with great people.  I will have to reevaluate my sewn muslin wheel and look at the hard felts.  I hope we both get an answer to your question. 

Thanks Vance, and you're right about the helpful folks on this site.  I still haven't gotten any replies to my question about tool and supply resources.  I'd like to get into re-handling old folders that need it.  But I will have to know where to obtain pin material, and a nice little anvil.  Ive seen these anvils on u-tube videos, and in one knife repair book, so I know they are out there.  I'm confident that someone on this site will be able to help.

Oh, I must be half blind!  I just noticed Pat Kennedy's reply about Jantz Supply having the anvil I'm referring to.  Old age must be catching up with me.  See, I knew someone could help me.  Thanks Pat.  I'll Check it out.

Here's an anvil and other things.  I like this site a lot.  Jantz is good to in my experience.  I like the handle material on this site more I think.

I can't paste the address.  Go to usaknifemakers.comm and search for "anvil".

Jack

Wow.   I just looked at the anvils.  Sure can cost a lot of $ to get something to bang on with a hammer. :)

There are a lot of knife links on my blog that may help.  I have been accumulating as many as I can. 

http://texasknives.org/

If you can think of any to add, let me know.  Thanks.

Vance

Hello Mike!  As far as handle materials, I have had good luck with Culpepper and Company  at http://www.knifehandles.com/  for bone and horn handles; and at http://stores.ebay.com/WOODEN-ARTISTIC-TREASURES ie bigmikeyc1 where some very nice stabalized wooden handles are offerd.  Best regards

Jack.  You're right about the handle materials.  Thanks!

Thanks Vance, I buy from Texas knife makers supply but I haven't heard of those others. I'll check them out.

Ok here go's with my first post. Doe's anyone know where I can get a blade for a #19 queen pocket knife?

You may ask Jan.  She works at Queen and may know how to get a replacement blade.  Also, she pointed to their warranty info last week about a broken back spring.  You check into that as well.  Vance

Howdy, Rich! 

Congratulations on making your first post! Let me point you in the direction of Queen Cutlery: http://queencutlery.com/ That is their website and you can contact the Daniels family there. You could also post your question here at iKC in our Queen Group: http://tinyurl.com/Queen-Group-iKC Ryan and Courtney Daniels of Queen Cutlery may respond to your question there, also.

Good luck! And keep on posting -- The more you put in the more you'll get out!

Thanks guys. What I am really looking for is a used blade so the knife looks more original. Guess I could have been more specific in my first post.

  I bought the knife at the queen show in pleasantville pa from a woman whose husband worked for queen 54 years ago. The blade was bent and I promptly broke it trying to straighten it.

  I talked to the president of queen at the show and she said it isn't covered under the warranty and would cost more to replace the blade than the knife is worth. Now if I hadn't broke it tryin to straighten it they would have fixed it...I'll never learn.

I see some blades for folders, some times on Ebay. They are mostly, Camillus but some might be Queen's. Check it out and I'll keep an eye out for Queen knife blades, for you. I'm on there all the time any way...lol

LOL.  That sounds just like one of my repair jobs.  You are with the right group that may have an old queen to give to the cause.  Ebay is also a possibility.  I would post in the Queen group and see if they have any ideas.  I have one old queen trapper that was my uncles and I have a queen trapper of my brother's that has a broken backspring that I intend to send back to Queen for repair.  Which blade do you need?  Do you have pics?

I've been checking ebay not a queen pocket knife blade to be found. The blade I need is the pointed skinning blade. I'll get some more of my knife pictures up later tonite after I feed the dogs. Thanks again...

Rich, maybe you could find a whole Queen knife in bad shape that you could get cheap and salvage the blade from it.

Marked improvement!

Your master blade is now taking on the appearance of a clip point tanto. lol Much much better, though! And, the overall appearance of the knife is up a thousand percent!

Good show, my friend! 

Looking good, Steve.

Real good job, Steve. I'm not familiar with that brand "Ranger" but it looks like a sturdy knife.

Robert, 

Ranger knives were made by Colonial Knife Company: http://www.colonialknifecorp.com/history.htm 

They actually had a patent for their system of pinning their blades and hiding the pins beneath the bolster, rather than piercing through it. Here is their design and original patent application.

Oh yea, Colonial, a user man's knife company.

Ron that is some cool information.  There are so many ways to learn the mechanics of a knife these days.  Buying a kit will help you understand how it all fits together

http://www.premiumknifesupply.com/servlet/the-259/Kit-S002-Osaka-Fo...

I just looked for kits on usaknifemakers.com.  They have several.  I see a Gunstock 3.25" closed kit that looks interesting.  But, it looks like it still needs to be ground, heat treated, fit and finished according to the description.  So it's now just a "put parts together" kit.  I'll have to call them to see if there is any aspect I can't do.  I know I can't grind a blade.  The picture looks like the blade comes cut to shape but no FFG or hollow grind or anything like that.  If I tried to grind it I'd end up with a FFG, hollow and saber grind in different places on the same blade. lol

Oops.  I meant to say "it is NOT a "put parts together" kit.  Keyboard can't spell. lol

Jack, SMKW has some Rough Rider kits.  They don't look to awful hard to put together and they are cheap.  Might be good for practice.

Knifekits.com has kits available .. a simple "screw parts together" kit can be had as low as $ 17 + shipping. A partial pin together kit (i.e. scales pre-attached) can be had for the same.

Blades are pre-tempered .. a little on the soft side for my preference .. one has a working knife upon assembly though .. a good learning experience. 

..... still cheaper to buy a couple abused knives @ yard sales. Dis-assemble those & attempt re-assembly. Repeat until reassembly successful.