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A bunch of us was having a conversation in a different discussion that brought up several questions about the state of the Knife collecting hobby.  Below are some of those questions to ponder and consider. 

Do you have a limit to how much you are willing to spend on a knife, such as a $100 threshold?  If so, why?  At what point is a knife too expensive to use as an everyday carry knife? 

Do you feel some of the knives you own are too pretty/costly to use?

Do you feel that some knives probably cost more because of how they look as opposed to their ability to get the job done? 

Do you think some of the new super steels over-priced hype?  How good does the steel in the knife really need to be?

Do you think some knife makers, including well established companies are now making knives to collect and not actually use?  Has the overall quality of their knives slipped because the company is really making knives to cut a sheet a paper and spend the rest of their life in a collector box or tin?

At what point do you feel like you’re not getting the return on your investment?   Are you willing to pay more for a USA made knife of lesser quality or same quality compared to an imported knife;  if so, how much more?

How does all of this affect the knife collecting hobby in general and your overall approach to building your collection?

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I collect old and new and I believe to take a knife that's 50, 75 or 100 years old is not a knife to be used. We must treasure them and hand them down to the next generation of knife collectors. There is plenty of knives we can make into users and not get into using the vintage ones.

First I look for the pattern I collect, then the makers origin..preference is USA made. Price is reflective on the time,availability

and it's potential at being a future desired collectible.

All the USA knives have become collectible...the Imports will be just EDC or something to talk about.

As for knife sharpening, I used to use a stone and then I went to 1000 grit sand paper, now I typically use a Smith's JIFF-S  10 second knife sharpener.   I saw the knife sharpener on http://www.knivestv.com/   and it looks promising.

When it comes to camp/utility and military knives, I've bought several that  go in the Cutlery Cavern, my poor man's personal museum.  I also buy some older one specifically to use. Often I buy a used knife to use because I figure, it already lacks value.   But then when they arrive they some times become items in the museum.  They may eventually get more use but...for the moment...I guess I'm too busy admiring them to use them.  Hack I've got a drawer full of junkers as it is.

It takes a lot for me to spend over $100.00 on a knife and if I do it is usually a special one for my collection.  My EDC knives have normally been Kershaw's.  For the longest time I carried a Leek, until that stabby little point went through my left hand one day requiring a doctor's visit and a molded cast on my hand.  I then switched to a Kershaw Kuro which I have carried for a couple of years now, it is made in China and has a tanto blade.  At it's price point I would not be afraid to abuse it or lose it, things I like in an EDC knife.  That being said, I am about to switch over -  probably the first time I have EDC'd a knife that cost more than $100.00.  I have ordered a Benchmade 915 Triage.  The reason I decided to make this switch is because I have been trained and certified in motorcycle crash scene first-aid and I ride with a group of other Harley riders.  I do see and believe in the importance of a good knife capable of assisting in emergency first-aid on the highway.  I am hoping this Benchmade Triage will be a good EDC knife for many, many years to come.

Wow, that's a lot of questions! Lemme see if I can answer those:

Do you have a limit to how much you are willing to spend on a knife, such as a $100 threshold?  If so, why?  At what point is a knife too expensive to use as an everyday carry knife? 

Not really.Currently my most expensive knife is a handmade slipjoint with mother of pearl scales. It cost (at the time) upward of $300 and it's also currently in my pocket. It's a GREAT knife and I love using it. So far I've not reached a "limit" on what I'll use either. I'm on the list with a knifemaker to buy a knife from him that's looking to cost around $1K and I'm planning on carrying and using it a lot. There's people that carry a $5K watch. I think I could get myself to use a $1k knife.

Do you feel some of the knives you own are too pretty/costly to use?

No I don't.

Do you feel that some knives probably cost more because of how they look as opposed to their ability to get the job done? 

Yes, some materials like Damascus, Ivory and mother of Pearl are purely for looks and add nothing to functionality. Other materials like premium steels however can do a LOT for functionality.

Do you think some of the new super steels over-priced hype?  How good does the steel in the knife really need to be?

That all depends on your usage. For some people having a steel that will last all day on processing meat/wood/drywall really helps them in their work. And they really get something out of steels like M390 or S90V etc.

For me personally....anything over 440A is generally good enough. But I do prefer better steels still and am willing to pay for them in most cases.


Do you think some knife makers, including well established companies are now making knives to collect and not actually use?  Has the overall quality of their knives slipped because the company is really making knives to cut a sheet a paper and spend the rest of their life in a collector box or tin?

For some this is true. For others it isn't. Impossible to do a general sweeping statement on this. I know of plenty "Armchair Warriors" who never get out and use what they buy. And I know of plenty hard users as well that beat the snot out of the knives they take into the bush.

Great response, Alexander.   Your answer shows that the member on IKC come from all walks of life and from around the world.  In many ways the only thing some of us have in common is that we own knives.  I can't even imagine spending a $1000 for a knife, let alone use a $1000 knife!  But I recall drooling over the beauty and functionality of such knives in books as well as on the old Knives Live TV show.

Alas, I fear I am more armchair warrior these days.  However, when the opportunity arises I always take a knife in the bush with me as I always leave the beaten path behind.

I have to say I never thought I'd spend 1K on a knife either. Untill I saw this one. Took me a long time thinking about it but I finally decided that I'd rather spend 1K on a single knife that I LOVED than 1K on 5-10 knives that I just kind of like.

But I don't buy a lot of knives. So it might be easier for me because of that.

As for me. I'm closer to the armchair warrior side of things in that my personal setting is extremely urban. I work in an office, live in a sort of suburb in a country where there's hardly any real bush left anymore. That said a couple of times a year I get to go camping and I use my knives a lot at those times. And in the mean time my knives see a lot of use opening packages, slicing food, cutting string, cleaning nails, coring apples etc.

I know what you mean, Alexander.   I've skinned quite a few apples in my life but I usually one of those Swiss made wonder knives!

You have all inspired me to make some Affordable Pocket Knives in the just over $100 price range. Most likely they will be case trappers with a solid piece handle with my engraving and embellishments on them. I customize pocket knives. Case and Buck mostly. It really amazes me to see lots of guys collecting knives with drab handle materials. Factory made knives. I was going through the gallery and the lack of color in the knives floored me. There is a large selection of materials available to use for customized knives out there. Lots of the good colorful stuff being recon stone which is 85% crushed ore thats been reconstituted with 15% resin. They add color and heat to bring out the patterns. It's mock stone that looks like natural stone such as turquoise, etc. It's much easier to cut then stone and can be worked with normal wood working tools. Michael Prater, David Yellowhorse, and other customizers use this material almost exclusively on their knives. I like to use other materials like Mammoth tooth, Lab Opal and Fossil Coral which is a bit tougher to work with for high end collectible knives. 

About collecting and using knives that are more expensive. I just realized how many knives I have laying around my house in displays and on the walls and in drawers. I like all sorts of knives from Production knives like Emerson, Cold Steel, and Benchmade to fully plastered knives that have thousands of dollars in real turquoise on them to my own knives which I have never carried or kept! The mechanic always has the worst running car.

Personally my favorite EDC knife right now is a case 61225L. I carry a custom one that Dave Kopec did for me. It has pink pearl and abalone on the handle. It holds an edge and sharpens easily. It slices through anything I need to cut and fits nicely in the pocket. I bash it up and then make it look like new again in less than 5 minutes. Its a bit different for me because I can take any pocket knife that I buy and make it into anything I want so with this in mind the sky is the limit. I have had a chance to work on lots of case knives and some buck knives as well. My favorites for carry would also be case peanut, toothpick, saddlehorn, stockman, pen knife etc.. If I was working in the yard I may carry a buck 110 or case hawkbill knife. Something with a bit more weight on it.

Just throwing this in but the absolute sharpest knife I have ever owned was an emerson mini commander! Never have I had a knife with an edge like that on it.. Almost cut my finger clean off. I cringe when I think about it.

Great discussion, Tobias.

I already said my piece in another discussion, so I'll simply say that inflation has upped the ante for a price ceiling for me.  If you wonder why 1095 carbon knives cost $100. today when you have a drawer full of 1095 carbon knives for which you paid way less than half that for each knife - inflation.  Most of the new knives I buy are "super" steel, so you pay the price, and the price is over $100.

I got hooked on collecting a couple Case patterns, and Case figured out what Garrett is talking about - colors, so you keep buying the same pattern in all the colors available.  I don't use these knives, but I do use one of each pattern.  The old timers didn't have this problem.  Folders came in some dark jigged bone or pearl.  You got a new "working" knife when you wore one out, lost it, or broke a blade.

I buy only fixed blades that I use.  I am fascinated by new steels, so I buy a fixed blade in whatever steel that the specs for which say it should withstand hard use, not rust, and be easy to sharpen.  I like to test one steel against another in field use, so you kinda have to pay the asking price.

I have no use for a Paua handled, or mammoth handled fixed blade that I am going to beat with a baton [not the handles], or chop with it like a hatchet.  For these knives I am not looking for adornments or jewelry to pretty them up.  Even stag is a bit delicate for a "woods" knife, so the Micarta handles are just fine, and not as expensive as "exotic" materials.  The money is in the steel, where I think it should be for a hard use knife.

I don't own any Randalls or Ditemar Kresslers, which I would be afraid to use, but I believe that I would buy a "Randal-priced" knife in some exceptional new steel, like the "unobtainium" steel I mentioned in another discussion.

Oh, if I am considering a custom knife I read the maker's warranty.  I understand that a kitchen knife isn't a Bowie knife, and some makers don't warranty their knives against what they call "stupid".  Batoning is considered "stupid" by some makers.  I believe a "hunting" knife should be able to stand up to batoning.  I don't expect to be chopping or splitting firewood in the woods with fillet knife, but a custom hunting knife should be able to do this.  So, I will not be buying a $300.+ custom knife that maker is telling me won't hold up to routine batoning - by excluding it from his warranty.

Good points about batoning, Howard.  I know some knives are really a batoning type knife (such as upswept skinners) but if a knife is made to be an all around knife or a bush-craft knife it better be able to take some batoning.  Whacking the spine of such a knife with a piece of wood should not  beak the blade or void the warranty.

Great points to ponder and learn from.

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