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Knife Repair, Modification, Restoration & Improvement

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Knife Repair, Modification, Restoration & Improvement

This group is hosted by D ale, for knife enthusiasts who are interested in repairing, modifiying, restoring or improving knives, including fixed blades, folders and automatics of all types.

Members: 199
Latest Activity: Dec 9

Discussion Forum

Fixing mistreatment (AKA "I can fix it!")

Started by Kevin D. Last reply by Jan Carter Dec 9. 9 Replies

Once again that "I can fix it!" thing bit me...Someone mistreated a Japanese nakiri chef knife by using it as a cleaver.  Needless to say, they put a healthy divot in the edge of the blade.  .138" deep to be more exact...After they damaged the blade…Continue

A Japanese Floating Fish Knife

Started by Kevin D Nov 14. 0 Replies

I acquired this Japanese floating fish knife in not so good condition.After it had been sitting around the house for a bit, I made the decision to redo the entire thing.  As I started to clean and refresh the knife, I was surprised how rough and…Continue

1972 Case repair

Started by Andy Larrison. Last reply by Andy Larrison Sep 15. 2 Replies

This piece belonged to a friends Grandpa.  The main back spring was completely rounded off and there was no action left to it.  Both blades had been loved on quite a bit.I had the main blade tang tig welded and reshaped, lightly cleaned both blades…Continue

Case Trapper Mod

Started by Andy Larrison. Last reply by Andy Larrison Aug 4. 3 Replies

Removed the yellow synthetic scales from this Case trapper yesterday and fit it with green streaked smooth buffalo horn, nickle silver cigar band and a strip of black and gold webbed onyx.  Also fileworked the blades and back springs.  Oh yeah, i…Continue

Could not find the perfect place for this - looking for feedback

Started by Kevin D. Last reply by Kevin D Jul 25. 5 Replies

M1913 'Patton' Cavalry Saber - blade.This thing was never finished, and as such never issued.It was made in 1915.Being as…Continue

The first of the ulu refurbishes

Started by Kevin D. Last reply by Jan Carter Jan 15. 12 Replies

I recently was able acquire a small lot of ulu knives that all needed to be cleaned, restored, or refurbished.Here is a before photo of one that was missing a handle.…Continue

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Comment by J.J. Smith III on April 7, 2016 at 19:10

"So Far".

Comment by allanm on April 6, 2016 at 23:30

Thanks JJ - I planned to be sure it is well treated all the way through, but worth reminding since I am a newbie. Now looking more seriously every day at tools, blanks, raw steel, finished blanks, and the list is growing. :-) At least my wife is ok with it. So far!

Comment by J.J. Smith III on April 5, 2016 at 23:04
Which ever treatment you use, Allanm, you need to make sure that it is fully absorbed by the leather. I've seen the surface looking nice, but the inside was still dried out.
Comment by Bryan OShaughnessy on April 5, 2016 at 21:36

Softens my hands, too!

Comment by Jan Carter on April 5, 2016 at 19:16

Bryan,

Great call in using some sandpaper on the edges to get better absorption!  Also on baseball glove oil.  I have never tried it on a knife but DUH!  I should have LOL.  I have seen it do wonders for old gloves

Comment by allanm on April 5, 2016 at 17:23

Thank you Bryan, good ideas to try also. I had not thought of coated edges. With age I had just guessed the disks were just totally worn and dried out but you may be right in possible coatings.

Jan, I was also halfway surprised at the proxy allowing me to the site, bit not entirely, What surprised me was it allowed me to get to the site but some things don't work, like attaching / embedding images, and when I post a comment, after posting, the proxy whines and cries that I am attempting to go to a social media site and blocks me. But we can get to facebook and twitter, because businesses use them too. Go figure. :-)

Comment by Bryan OShaughnessy on April 4, 2016 at 21:35

Note to allanm: Regarding the leather disks on the handles, I would suggest examining the edges of the disks to see if they have been coated with grease or oil or paint or just "polished" smooth by use.  If so, take a medium sandpaper and rough-up the edges so they will absorb oil; several coats of oil will cause the disks to swell up and close up the gaps.  Second, I would suggest that you use baseball-glove oil on the leather.  Rawlings or Dunlap or whatever brand you can find is ok; they are made especially for treating leather and will have the best chemical compound.  I've used 3-in-1 oil on sheaths and it improves the look and softness of the leather, but it never seems to soak in deep: it always feels oily and slippery. 

Comment by Jan Carter on April 4, 2016 at 20:57

I am surprised work lets you even see us!  Most places block anything to do with knives

Comment by allanm on April 4, 2016 at 20:45

Thanks Jan, I will try to get Simichrome and give that a try, and let you know how it goes. Just to prove to myself the problem is the proxy server at work - I can attach an image in here. So it looks when I'm eating my lunch I need to read and research new knife making things and join in here from home. :-)

Comment by Jan Carter on April 4, 2016 at 20:23

Allanm,

Neatfoots oil may work.  It is certainly worth a good try.  I would start the steel parts out with some simichrome or something along those lines, you can pick it up at walmart, home depot, ebay...just about anywhere.  I would love to watch this one come back to life!

 
 
 

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