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This group is hosted by D ale, for knife enthusiasts who are interested in repairing, modifiying, restoring or improving knives, including fixed blades, folders and automatics of all types.
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Started by Andy Larrison on Tuesday. 0 Replies 0 Likes
This Case trapper started out as a 2 bladed purple barnboard jigged bone knife. Had a fella aske me to make it a 3 blade and add some filework to it. I used a spey blade from a donor trapper and modified it into a wharncliffe blade for the 3rd…Continue
Started by Kevin D. Last reply by Lars Ray Nov 13. 11 Replies 3 Likes
Good Evening!I just acquired a USN MK2 knife a couple of days ago. The grip's leather discs were horribly dehydrated, and the guard was a bit bent; but for the most part, it was in pretty good shape. It really needed some cleaning and just a touch…Continue
Started by Kevin D Sep 21. 0 Replies 2 Likes
I found this old fillet knife literally in pieces.The blade was bent. The tang was warped. The handle was too small (in my opinion). And the mechanical connection of the tang behind the handle was destroyed. The edge being useless was an obvious…Continue
Started by Andy Larrison. Last reply by Andy Larrison Jun 12. 4 Replies 2 Likes
Had to try one out, so I sacrificed a jigged black synthetic handled razor and added some mammoth bark ivory that had some great character. First razor I've ever done, very easy pattern to work with.…Continue
Started by Andy Larrison Mar 13. 0 Replies 0 Likes
Had a customer reach out wanting me to barehead and add stag to this great Old Timer. Original handles and box can be seen in the pictures.…Continue
Started by Andy Larrison. Last reply by J.J. Smith III Feb 25. 5 Replies 0 Likes
Recently removed the original black covers and replaced them with European red stag on this 1972 Case Sodbuster. Original covers can be seen lying to the left of the knife.…Continue
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Thoughts on this one?
http://www.iknifecollector.com/forum/topics/to-refinish-or-not-to-r...
Thanks for the reply Peter. The razor method sounds awesome. I can't wait to try it on another jack knife that I have. To answer your question about the jigging, I tried to get the joint between the bone and the bolster to be where you couldn't feel it. I was using a large diameter wheel on the grinder. I though it would also clean up the pin. I don't know. This is the first time I have tried to repair a pocket knife. I appreciate all of the advice. I need all I can get. Thanks.
HEY- first of hope all is well!!!
TO ANSWER your question - about drilling out the pins. i have taken apart knives only to restore them and im far from a professional and still will send them out when i want the knife done very well. so this might be a crude way of doing it but it works very well fpor me.... plus in HOW TO BOOKS-by some of the great makers - i have seen the RAZOR method work ... and it works very easy.
1.align razor {yes like a gillette razor ,just the blade of course. i have a home made razor mount that i use so you can easily swap out the razors.. and packs and packs of old razors from ebay cost less the drill buits{remember boken drill bits make excellent pins themselves-dont waste them!} ...so first off you want to make sure the razor blade is not going anywhere.so lock it down good somwhere sharpened edge facing UP!.. i have seen some just place razor between the liner and spring and with just a few taps sperate enitre knife but the razor blade goes flying ...lol..not good...
as well as i have seen folks use HAND HELD razors for opening boxes-this can work sometimes pretty well as you just tap on the back of the BOX-CUTTER..
now i would just take the knife ,slip the edge of the raozr between the liners and whatever else you want to seperate and just tap your way though. the razor will cut the pins on the way down...y0u will of course know when you hit another pins. you will need to tap a litlle harder but through the entire process you want to tap slowly ..even when you hit the pins..the razor blade will after a few taps cut the pin and continue down the liner.
2. after you tap the knife down the raozrs edge all the way-and you do it through the rest of the knife the knife will almost just fall apart.the bolsters will still be on the liners.if you need to take the bolsters off-{small other lesson for that.}
3.just use a TAP to knock out the rest of the pieces of pins.{i have never had to drill out a pin dues to the fact that their are only small pieces of pin material left after doing it this way.} some will tap at once.some may get stubborn...you may need to file it a little ... their are so many tricks to restoring knives.. i dont have much time now and im just getting back into taking some CELLULOID knnives apart {that i can handle} and others im sending out.
i have one question. this is just me and the hafting job looks good- but i see that the bone is jigged from end to end. when using bone i always go with leaving the jig from bolster to bolster.. was their a reason you didnt...just a prefernce?..just wondering thats all. reagrdless keep it up...restoring knives is another entire part of the hobby that i love. also can save ya tons of money!!...when i was restroing i bought mostly junkers and eventually you will have parts that you can mix and match.. alsywas good if your gonna really get into retsoring as a hobby to mark with a sharpie on any exces pieces/if you make single blade jack knife out of a TL-29..which makes a great jack!..you might wanna mark on the screwdriver blade .which knife and mayybe which year it came out of -so later down the road if you need to repair a TL-29 that needs a screwdriver blade you all set!...i still have a baggy of just all liners...LOL!
KEEP UP THE AWESOME WORK VANCE!!
Thanks for the reply. I will get me some center drills. I just finished the handle repair. Instead of drilling out the pins, iI cut off the scale pins and sanded the backspring pin to where it would fit through a hole. I was able to get the new slabs on but I have a couple of questions. My biggest problem was that the epoxy did not hold in the middle of one of the slabs. Did I not put enough epoxy on? The epoxy I am using is several years old, is there a shelf life? Secondly, what is the best way to cut out the hole for the shield inlay? I kind of eye-balled it and made it too big. I am happy with the way the red bone jigged scales from Culpepper turned out. I ended up drilling the handle pins all the way through, then cutting off the pins on the inside with the dremel and filed them down. Is there an easier way to pin the slabs on without taking the knife apart, or do most people take the knife completely apart?
Vance,
I use a center drill because it is sturdy and will not drift. I go just deep enough to clean out the peened pin then press it through. You can follow my step by step process on a balisong, Hope this helps. http://www.iknifecollector.com/photo/albums/how-to-repin-a-balisong
And what are the best drill bits to use?
I am having a hard time drilling out the pins in some slip joints. The drill bit keeps breaking. What is the best way to remove the pivot pins, backspring pin, and handle slab pins?
What are you planning to use for the scales?
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