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The online community of knife collectors, A Knife Family Forged in Steel

Knife Repair, Modification, Restoration & Improvement

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This group is hosted by D ale, for knife enthusiasts who are interested in repairing, modifiying, restoring or improving knives, including fixed blades, folders and automatics of all types.

Members: 198
Latest Activity: Jan 21

39 members like this

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KnifeMaker

1972 Case repair

Started by Andy Larrison Jan 21. 0 Replies 0 Likes

This piece belonged to a friends Grandpa. The main back spring was completely rounded off and there was no action left to it. Both blades had been loved on quite a bit.I had the main blade tang tig welded and reshaped, lightly cleaned both blades…Continue

The first of the ulu refurbishes

Started by Kevin D. Last reply by Jan Carter Jan 15. 12 Replies 3 Likes

I recently was able acquire a small lot of ulu knives that all needed to be cleaned, restored, or refurbished.Here is a before photo of one that was missing a handle.…Continue

USN MK2

Started by Kevin D. Last reply by Kevin D Jan 14. 12 Replies 3 Likes

Good Evening!I just acquired a USN MK2 knife a couple of days ago. The grip's leather discs were horribly dehydrated, and the guard was a bit bent; but for the most part, it was in pretty good shape. It really needed some cleaning and just a touch…Continue

Another ulu - cleaning/restoration

Started by Kevin D. Last reply by Kevin D Jan 10. 1 Reply 0 Likes

Another ulu from the small lot of them I was able to purchase recently.This one only needed a thorough cleaning and some careful restoration.Before pics:…Continue

KnifeMaker

Case Three Blade Trapper Modification

Started by Andy Larrison Nov 19, 2024. 0 Replies 0 Likes

This Case trapper started out as a 2 bladed purple barnboard jigged bone knife. Had a fella aske me to make it a 3 blade and add some filework to it. I used a spey blade from a donor trapper and modified it into a wharncliffe blade for the 3rd…Continue

An old Rapala (Marttiini) fillet knife

Started by Kevin D Sep 21, 2024. 0 Replies 2 Likes

I found this old fillet knife literally in pieces.The blade was bent. The tang was warped. The handle was too small (in my opinion). And the mechanical connection of the tang behind the handle was destroyed. The edge being useless was an obvious…Continue

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Comment by Terry Waldele on May 4, 2010 at 23:51: That Dremel tool control issue is one that really bugs me! Even when I lay off the coffee for awhile, my hands are just too shaky to do fine work (like nail nicks) without risking making a mess of it. One trick painters use to steady their hands for fine work is to support their painting hand with a wooden rod with a rubber tip on it held against the canvas with the other hand when they apply brush to canvas. Could we translate that trick into some kind of simple support for a Dremel tool? I surfed the web to find those paintering sticks, which are called Mahl sticks, and found a product that looks very promising. It's called the "EZ Rest Painting Handrest" and it's sold by Jerry's Artarama. Here's a link to it.

KnifeMaker Comment by CaptJeff Saylor on May 4, 2010 at 20:36: hey guys! you got some great info on here! i just had to join!

In Memoriam Comment by D ale on May 4, 2010 at 19:18: .. also used to cut coconut ..

!! .. love the diversity .. !!

In Memoriam Comment by D ale on May 4, 2010 at 19:16: .. alignment prob ..

once I get a cut started .. keeping the wheel in alignment with what groove is already cut is critical .. more so w/ an actual cut-off operation .. but, I introduce any 'twist" whatsoever into the wheel .. it flies apart …..

I know .. go figure .. that's why I asked about any fixture & commented on steadying the dremel .. those cut-off wheels are fragile little things .. 'course @ 20K+ rpm's ......

Have got a Grizzly reasonably close .. well, in MO anyway .. need to re-check what they have for dremel like accessories .. hate paying for the name !!!

Comment by J.J. Smith III on May 4, 2010 at 16:46: Only use that much blade when I carve the pits. Really like the wharncliffe blade design for the built in strength. The point is surprisingly strong from the way it is in line with the entire spine of the blade.

Comment by J.J. Smith III on May 4, 2010 at 16:41: I actually use the ones from Harbor Freight.
Dremel costs about $9.00 while at Harbor Freight I get 5 for $6.00, (but they go on sale for $4.00 frequently). Never had an alignment problem with these.
Don't know how long a Dremel wheel would last but I can generally cut down 2 -3 blades before I have to replace it.
Use them also for cutting coconuts...

In Memoriam Comment by D ale on May 4, 2010 at 16:29: .. the short blade length .. does it yield better control ??
.. I know it's typical of whittling tools .. just, not sure why !!

In Memoriam Comment by D ale on May 4, 2010 at 13:32: .. got the lower one .. top one is new though .. been using the cut-off wheels ..

.. my prob .. should do a better set up .. something to rest/steady the dremel up against.. knife's already in a vise .. and, skip the coffee

that top one looks like it might be a bit more durable/robust than the cut-off wheels .. any mis-alignment on those .. you better have the safety glasses

Comment by J.J. Smith III on May 4, 2010 at 13:05: Diamond wheels will make a simple, yet narrow, nail nick. I use these to cut the initial location for a new nick and to also make a shallow, existing, nick a bit deeper.

Additional flairing can be made with an aluminum oxide stone.