The online community of knife collectors, A Knife Family Forged in Steel
This group is hosted by D ale, for knife enthusiasts who are interested in repairing, modifiying, restoring or improving knives, including fixed blades, folders and automatics of all types.
Members: 198
Latest Activity: on Tuesday
Started by Andy Larrison on Tuesday. 0 Replies 0 Likes
This Case trapper started out as a 2 bladed purple barnboard jigged bone knife. Had a fella aske me to make it a 3 blade and add some filework to it. I used a spey blade from a donor trapper and modified it into a wharncliffe blade for the 3rd…Continue
Started by Kevin D. Last reply by Lars Ray Nov 13. 11 Replies 3 Likes
Good Evening!I just acquired a USN MK2 knife a couple of days ago. The grip's leather discs were horribly dehydrated, and the guard was a bit bent; but for the most part, it was in pretty good shape. It really needed some cleaning and just a touch…Continue
Started by Kevin D Sep 21. 0 Replies 2 Likes
I found this old fillet knife literally in pieces.The blade was bent. The tang was warped. The handle was too small (in my opinion). And the mechanical connection of the tang behind the handle was destroyed. The edge being useless was an obvious…Continue
Started by Andy Larrison. Last reply by Andy Larrison Jun 12. 4 Replies 2 Likes
Had to try one out, so I sacrificed a jigged black synthetic handled razor and added some mammoth bark ivory that had some great character. First razor I've ever done, very easy pattern to work with.…Continue
Started by Andy Larrison Mar 13. 0 Replies 0 Likes
Had a customer reach out wanting me to barehead and add stag to this great Old Timer. Original handles and box can be seen in the pictures.…Continue
Started by Andy Larrison. Last reply by J.J. Smith III Feb 25. 5 Replies 0 Likes
Recently removed the original black covers and replaced them with European red stag on this 1972 Case Sodbuster. Original covers can be seen lying to the left of the knife.…Continue
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Just realized, this afternoon, that I forgot to post a link to the 58mm SAK video.
Cece .. this is from a previous post. It's a post Re: epoxying wooden scales to metal liners.
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Reply by D ale on July 3, 2016 at 19:09
After meticulously cleaning the liners of old epoxy & milling the mating surface of the scale perfectly flat .. I just trashed all that .. intentionally. Rather .. I just roughed up the surfaces to be epoxied for better adhesion.
The scales have been epoxied & pinned in place. The whole affair is "resting" for the night in a nice tight vice. I used Loctite IDH# 1393759 ..60 minute 2-part epoxy.The directions suggest leaving undisturbed for 3 hours .. full cure in 24 hours ..&.. that's what it will get.
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Hope that helps.
Thank you JJ!
Cece, I'm assuming that you'll be doing the woodwork and fitment yourself. L
Dale said, I usually just do simple swaps, but found this awesome video on making custom scales for a 58 mm SAK where he uses the 2 part epoxy like Dale suggested.
Good luck and post pics.
Thank you D ale!
Hi CeCe .. Welcome to our Repair & Mod Group. Thank you for joining !
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JJ Smith is likely the man to talk to on Re: Victorinox. He has replaced numerous scales on his collection of SAK's. I believe he has a fair collection of them. However, I also believe his scale swaps have been from prefabricated scales. Nonetheless, he's the most knowledgeable, Re: SAK's, among our group.
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As far as adhesive goes .. I'd recommend most any quality 2-part epoxy. Note: longer cure times are generally the "strongest". I do "rough up" the mating surfaces before adding adhesives. I'll use a scribe to "scratch up" the metal surface & do the same for the mating wood surface. Re: wood .. a coarse grit will do the same.
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Wish I could be more helpful .. am just not that familiar with SAK's.
D ale
Hi CeCe .. Welcome to our Repair & Mod Group. Thank you for joining !
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JJ Smith is likely the man to talk to on Re: Victorinox. He has replaced numerous scales on his collection of SAK's. I believe he has a fair collection of them. However, I also believe his scale swaps have been from prefabricated scales. Nonetheless, he's the most knowledgeable, Re: SAK's, among our group.
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As far as adhesive goes .. I'd recommend most any quality 2-part epoxy. Note: longer cure times are generally the "strongest". I do "rough up" the mating surfaces before adding adhesives. I'll use a scribe to "scratch up" the metal surface & do the same for the mating wood surface. Re: wood .. a coarse grit will do the same.
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Wish I could be more helpful .. am just not that familiar with SAK's.
D ale
Hi All, I want to replace the scales on a Victorinox SD Classic. I have some redwood burl I want to use. Can anyone give me any advice on what type of glue to use? Thanks!
Comment by Dewey treat on Sunday
Can anyone share their method of helping rid a knife of the "gritty" feeling when opening and closing the blades? I've tried scalding hot water, Dawn dishwashing soap and a toothbrush and sometimes it will work, but other times.... meh!
Also, is there any PRACTICAL way of lessening the main spring tension short of disassembling the knife? I have two knives that are absolute nail breakers! Other than that, they're primo.
Thanks for any suggestions,
Dewman
Dewey,
For the tight spring I usually just "play" with that one. If I am watching the news or a movie I usually have a knife there that I can open and close. Sometimes it helps me loosen any grit remaining and usually will help make the knife easier to open, after time
Dewey
Your last comment might be better posted in the "comment" portion of your "My Page" area ..or.. at the top of the "Latest Activity" column on the right ..as.. it seems posted as a remark to all. Currently .. your last comment was posted only to the "Repair & Mod" group ..as opposed to.. the "entire iKC group".
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Note: Just cut-n-paste the last comment into the top of the "Latest Activity" column on the right & everyone will see it.
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Your more recent comment referencing the rough areas of the tang may be as the result of galling. Quest: does it appear like my last posted pic ?
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If so .. that is unfortunate. No matter how or if you manage to get it smooth again .. the galling will always return. I'm sorry.
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Re: particles between the tang & liner.
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!!! .. BEWARE .. !!!
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Brake cleaner would likely remove particles from between the tang & the liner ..BUT.. beware possible damage to other components i.e. scales.
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Afterwards .. "Oil the Joints" !!!
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