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Knife Repair, Modification, Restoration & Improvement


Knife Repair, Modification, Restoration & Improvement

This group is hosted by D ale, for knife enthusiasts who are interested in repairing, modifiying, restoring or improving knives, including fixed blades, folders and automatics of all types.

Members: 194
Latest Activity: Sep 16

Discussion Forum


Started by Jan Carter Jul 12. 0 Replies

Best steel guideJust thought this would be a great place to house this linkContinue

Tags: steels

an old butcher knife...

Started by Dan Neyhouse. Last reply by D ale Dec 17, 2019. 4 Replies

Hello everyone, Merry Christmas! I found an old Robeson ShurEdge butcher knife awhile back, in a flowerbed of all places. Cleaned it up a bit, it's still pitted, and from what I've been able to find online, not worth much. I would like to reuse this…Continue

Premium Knife supply - Blade blanks for customization

Started by Brad T.. Last reply by Brad T. Sep 25, 2019. 133 Replies

Over the last week I acquired 4 blade blanks for customization. The materials they use for their "S" line of products are 440C, manufactured in China.The ones I selected are pictured below:…Continue

Tags: Customize, handles, Supply, Knife, blanks

Mikov kit

Started by D ale. Last reply by D ale Aug 23, 2019. 56 Replies

 Here's a place to share resources.The pics will provide something to aspire too.Share a little about your kit experience !!! …Continue

Scale replacement of a factory pinned knife.

Started by D ale. Last reply by Flint Bone Feb 23, 2019. 37 Replies

My Sweetheart asked me for a knife .. made my day !!!Specifically .. she wanted a Doctor's Knife .. for the inherent pillbuster feature.I showed her the ones I have .. a Kinsfolk (by Queen for Case) .. a couple Queen std # 96 .. a Case Baby Doc…Continue

Becker BK7 handle

Started by Laura. Last reply by Laura Jan 21, 2019. 7 Replies

I replaced the black plastic scales with aftermarket ones, then cut, sanded and glued orange liners from a sheet of .06" G10.https://photos.app.goo.gl/9KuWJrJHz2fUJKtH70Continue

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Comment by D ale on December 21, 2019 at 18:06

Bruce ... Re: Pin Stock

Brass round stock.

Nickel Silver Round Stock.
I've personally used Jantz supplies. Not for pins ..but.. certainly other parts. I've always been pleased with their service & parts I've sourced from them.
Rod / pin stock from another supplier that I've used in the past. I've never experienced negative experiences from them either..


I've also used USA Knife Maker's supplies ..but.. they're currently out of 0.125" pin stock in both brass & SS ..&.. I'm pretty sure the pivot pin used in a Schrade LB7 is 0.125".
NOTE: when you reach the stage of peening the pivot pins .. place an 0.001" ~ 0.002" shim stock around the pins (both sides) between the frames & the blade. Cut enough of a slot into the shim stock the it will "saddle" the pin during the peening process. Also, use an old piece of inner tube or a sufficient pc of rubber that exposes just the pin to be peened while covering the surrounding bolsters or other parts you wish to minimize any damage.


I'm lucky enough to have a real honest to goodness hardware store in town that meets most of my pin stock & tubing requirements.


D ale

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 21, 2019 at 16:37

D ale,

Regarding your addendum, I would do the same myself if communicating with someone I was unaware of their expertise and knowledge.  As it happens, I do have a very wide background in a lot of stuff including metal work, but am never offended when receiving information.  Besides, someone who hasn't the background might read the thread and need the extended information.  

Now on to the meat of the matter.  The link you sent was instructional.  I was trying to use the utility blade wrong and had terrible luck.  Wound up drilling and punching pins to get the two knives apart.  Copacetic at this point.  Next problem is finding pins to put it all back together.  I am assuming the pivot for the blade needs to be semi-hard at least.  Am I correct or is simple mild steel going to hold up?  I have brass rod which I think will work for everything else, but the blade is a question mark in my mind.  I also had to remove the scales from the liners,since the ones I had are much nicer than the replacements.  Are these pins available somewhere reasonably or should I just use soft brass rod for these as well?  I'm sure setting them is going to be interesting.  

The whole project has been a learning experience.  I hadn't anticipated the necessity of truing the liners before reassembly, but it was necessary.  As stated, quite a learning experience.  

Thanks again for the assistance.


Comment by D ale on December 21, 2019 at 14:51

Bruce .. take a look @ the attached LINK. It's authored by a very respected knife maker who specializes in repair. Useful pics are included / embedded w/i the link.
Note: I've seen 2 other's who specialize in slipjoint repair. They both now use putty knives where they've sharpened one long edge to a durable edge (45 deg or slightly more". The advantage of putty knives, (sharpened on the edge intended for use specific to shearing pins), over using the industrial razor blade approach is the thinness of the putty knife & their enhanced strength & durability. I've seen this approach by 2 people that specialize in high volume slipjoint knife repair.
I've also noted additional industrial razor blades adjacent to one another until the pin shears, i.e. the first industrial razor blade is firmly in place & starting the shear process, the 2cnd blade is introduced along side the 1st til the shearing action is completed.


Note: Pins have to be soft enough to be peened. They are not hardened. By the same token, they are not so soft as gold or silver. Those are only used in "art" knives & then very rarely.
Hope things are working out for the LB7 project !



D ale


*Addendum: I never wish to come off as condescending in any of my remarks, such as .. " carbide end mills (fancy drill bits)". I just never know a person's skill level & rather over do it @ times. If you are already proficiently aware .. please excuse !

Comment by D ale on December 18, 2019 at 15:53

Thanks for the kind offer , Bruce. Genuinely appreciated !


Leverlocks have a sear pin that drops into slots in the blade locking the blade in place for both the open & closed positions. I popped a couple open for you to take a look at the locking mechanisms.

My greatest concern was if there existed a sufficient area of the tang of the Kinfolks to make this a workable project. I used a bamboo barbecue skewer that was slightly larger then the 0.125" dia of the pins of these leverlocks. I also drove the bamboo skewer on through the 0.090" pin hole of the Kinfolks, forcing the 2 hole diameters to become coincident w/ one another, i.e. centered. This allowed me to insure there did indeed provide a sufficient area present in the tang of the Kinfolks. 
I will have to enlarge the pivot hole of the Kinfolks to 0.125". Luckily, I have a small mill & a # of 0.125" carbide end mills (fancy drill bits). I will take great care to insure that the larger hole is centered on the original pre-existing pivot pin hole.
Cutting of the slots will also require some thought. The open slot at the end of the tang is for the open position. Being open ended .. it will be fairly straight forward .. I hope. The enclosed slot is for the closed position & will require a bit more effort. I intend to (carbide) drill a hole in the appropriate position & then likely use up a # of needle files while finishing the process.


I seem to be going on & on &on a bit ...........
Thanks for the kind offer !
D ale

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 18, 2019 at 8:34

I think I have a couple of liners that can work on a liner lock, if you are interested.  Will have to check and measure them to see if they might be a candidate for your second project.  Sympathies on the Kinfolks.  I've had a couple of knives do that through the years, but nothing that nice.  Mine were el-cheapos that didn't amount to anything to begin with.  Let me know if you want me to check and good luck with both projects.

Comment by D ale on December 17, 2019 at 22:47

The knife I'm currently working on is a Kinfolks Folding Hunter model #8292. I purchased it back in the early 80's on the cheap because one of the backsprings was broken. I told myself .. when I got my skill set up .. I'd fix it ! Then, bagged it at the time. Sometime later while going through some other knives I discovered this one had gassed out.

!!! . Sad Day . !!!

I removed all the remaining celluloid & sadly re-bagged it again. Recently, now became that time I referred to so many yrs ago.

I now intend to use the 2 liners w/ bolsters, intact spring, & the larger of the blades back into a single blade Folding Hunter. I hope to build the smaller blade into a leverlock auto. Please, wish me luck on the latter endeavor.

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 17, 2019 at 22:32

I had always figured the pivot pins would be hardened.  The center pin, not so much.  Guess I was wrong about the pivot pin.  As an aside, I bought a batch of Schrade parts a while back on ebay, so if you need liners for Schrade, I might have it.  Unfortunately, there wasn't one for the LB7 in question.  Couple of unground medium size blades as well.  

Comment by D ale on December 17, 2019 at 22:22

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 17, 2019 at 21:48

D ale,

I had seen this process somewhere but thought it looked like difficult to cut the pins.  Hadn't thought of the utility blades.  That's how I will proceed.  Looks like you are doing the same thing I'm trying with a different knife.  Guess we'll have to keep this dialogue going until we're both done.  Thank you, yet again for a road map.


Comment by D ale on December 17, 2019 at 21:11


I have a mini-mill & used to do very similar to what your currently thinking. I would center punch the pin to be removed & would then drill (using a drill slightly undersize) the said pin to a depth of  ~0.031".  I would then use (again, slightly undersize of the given pin) & drift out the pin using the punch. Unfortunately, the used pins often become bent our out line from use. I would then drill to a deeper depth & try drifting the pin out again. Sometimes it didn't work out quite the way I'd hoped.

After perusing a # of other forums .. I discovered an almost universal method. I see it used by so many others ..simply because.. it works. That method is to use utility type razor blades. You start by edging the utility blade between the liner & the blade ..or.. between the liner & the back spring. Slowly but somewhat forcefully the utility blade is forced into the pin, which will shear the pin. Sometimes more than one utility blade will be required.

NOTE: I am currently working on a project that required full disassembly. See pic.

I did not have any utility razor blades in the house & wasn't about to run into town for any. One thing I do have in my house is an abundance of knives. go figure. What I very successfully used was an old used up Catt kitchen knife. The spine of the blade measured on 0.045" thick .. ideal. It worked quite successfully. And big Kudos to the old Catt. Take a look @ the Catt blade's edge & you'll not see a single notch @ the cutting edge of the Catt after shearing all 3 required pins. 
If a slight burr is present @ the btm of the sheared pin .. either sand out the burr ..or.. use a dremel cut-off wheel (lightly) till you removed any burr left from the shearing action. Generally speaking, I can usually just drift the pins out using a punch w/o any additional clean-up of burrs left from the shearing action.

Also .. by utility type razor blades .. I mean those pictured below.


White River Knives

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