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Comment by Terry Waldele on September 7, 2011 at 23:14

Many thanks to all of you who responded to my cry for help.  I would like very much to get to the point where I don't use the Lansky anymore, but my eye-hand coordination sucks and I can't seem to get a "straight" grind freehand.  Every time I try doing the sharpening freehand, I get a convex edge that can't be resharpened without re-profiling it.  Maybe Robert can suggest a technique I can use to keep from "rolling" the knife's edge on the stone as I draw the blade across it?  Thanks again, everybody!

Comment by Thomas Lofvenmark on September 6, 2011 at 14:23

Hi Terry! Take a little contact glue in the clamp " mouth", just a thin nlayer, and on both sides - let it dry.

Now you have a thin layser of "rubber" who protect your blade from scratches . and this "rubber" layer also give you a much better frip on the blade.

Thomas

In Memoriam Comment by Robert Burris on September 6, 2011 at 9:42

I use the one I have on knives that have a straight grind at the top of the blade. Wow great job Keijo. I don't use mine much, I prefer free hand, I been doing it so long that I get it close enough for most people.

Comment by Terry Waldele on September 6, 2011 at 3:11

Hi all,

Maybe you can help me with a problem I have with my Lansky sharpening system, (see image below). 

The clamp on my Lansky sharpener won't grip blades tightly enough to prevent them from slipping out of position during the sharpening process.  Does anyone have any ideas on how I can solve this problem.  (So far, I've tried wrapping the clamp's jaws with electricians tape to improve their grip, but that didn't solve the problem.)  I'll appreciate any suggestions you can give me.  Thanks.

 

 

In Memoriam Comment by Robert Burris on May 24, 2011 at 15:25

Mr. AG, I have used your honing oil and must admit it is the finest I have ever used. I know I'll be using japanese wet stone alot more now but will never quit using my old oil stones.

Comment by Halicon on May 23, 2011 at 12:48

Russell, my spectrum of stones include every stone with Novaculite.

 

Hydrochloric acid melts synthetic stones and corrodes steel, is that really what we want to use when removing a thin layer of oil on a stone we want to use water on again?

 

I stand for my previous statement of simply grinding away the contaminated portion. The mildest and also safest way to get the stone back to functionality with water again.

 

Russell, you probably know a lot more about Arkansas stones than any of the people I know do and myself included but the same goes for the rest of the Novaculite stones out there and you yourself. I don't know if it's because of the composition of an Arkansas that you can clean them with acid but I have never read or heard anything in either historic documents or in recent years about acid being used to clean oil stones.

 

I have read mining and preparation documentation from Charnley forest, Turkey stones, Water of Ayr, Tam 'o Shatner and none of them had anything in them about any acids being used.

In Memoriam Comment by A. G. Russell on May 23, 2011 at 9:41

Don,

Hal is right about hydrochloric and muratic beubg tge sane.  Muratic is either a 31 or 60+% solution of hydrochloric.  use in a 10 to 1 with water being the ten.

use outdoors with lots of protection, forget damaging the stone, protect your precious person.

google muratic acid and heed all the warning.

I was in the business of producing and selling Arkansas stones for several years and may know a bit more about them than Hal's retailers.  After cutting the raw stone with diamond saws (in an oil bath) and then polishing them flat on a cast iron plat with silicon carbide we would put them in crocks full of an acid mix and let them soak until they were clean

When we wanted a surface for an eye surgion?  we would lap two stones together  using 25 micron diamond paste.

Comment by Halicon on May 23, 2011 at 3:30

Russell, you completely missed my point, I couldn't care less if some poor guy spilled hydrochloric acid all over himself.

I have dealt with retailers of stones for a long time and what you might not be aware of is this we have a great number of precious vintage stones that are loaded with oil that people want to use water with today.

 

These are stones that have been extinct for decades, even centuries and my "take" on the subject is that destroying a historically valuable stone isn't the wisest choice of action.

 

The retailers specialize in what we are discussing right now and I have never met anyone that used anything but a grinder to resurface a fresh portion of the stone.

Oil will only reach the outer layer of a stone due to it's particle size and it is very feasible to get a completely fresh face of the stone again by simply removing the contaminated portion.

 

My 2 damn cents. Now go do whatever you want with your stones.

Comment by Terry Waldele on May 23, 2011 at 3:21

Thanks, J.J.  Sounds reasonable to me.  Should I use muriatic acid to remove any residue from the brake cleaner?  ;-)  (I'm just messin' with ya.)

Comment by J.J. Smith III on May 23, 2011 at 0:47

Terry,

You could try an automotive brake cleaner.   It's designed to remove the oily residue and evaporate fully.

 I've even used it on photographic lens parts (not the elements) to get them back to a working order.

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