The online community of knife collectors, A Knife Family Forged in Steel
Who does not want a sharp knife? If it does not come from the factory that way, or if your knifemaker only put a "safety" edge on it...you want it sharp...right? Join us as we explore ways to do just that!
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Latest Activity: Mar 24, 2021
Started by richard m bissell III Nov 4, 2020. 0 Replies 2 Likes
Started by Jan Carter. Last reply by allanm Jul 25, 2017. 2 Replies 1 Like
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Started by AlecsKnives. Last reply by John Bamford Jul 14, 2016. 4 Replies 4 Likes
Started by John Bamford. Last reply by Jan Carter Jan 31, 2016. 34 Replies 2 Likes
Started by Jack Haskins, Jr.. Last reply by David Gallup Jan 30, 2016. 6 Replies 1 Like
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Yep, "back bevel" works. I don't want to start no trouble, but I use a back bevel of 10 degrees, and an edge bevel of 18 degrees on kitchen knives. 15 degrees and 23 degrees for work knives.
en I started talking to people on the pc about knives it surprised me at the different ways people referred to different parts of a knife. Since I didn't know much I just started learning. A primary bevel, to me, should be the cutting edge and the sec. bevel is above that. I've seen them referred to just the opposite. Some people call the edge bevel (my favorite) a micro bevel. I like to use the term "micro" only when the "edge bevel" is VERY small. Barely visible. I also like Spyderco's terms. Edge bevel and back bevel. This way the word "edge" is used to mean the cutting edge. Then they say " back bevel" for the bevel above that. Murray Carter uses primary and secondary terms. Primary means the edge bevel. Mr. Carter being a Japanese bladesmith of some very high level is about good enough for me to estsblish a terminology standard. Until a standard dictionary of edge terms is written we'll just have to figure out what the heck we are talking about. :)
Jack
Jack,
I'm with you on Primary & Secondary bevels for work knives, but I have trouble remembering which is which when talking about it. Probably don't need it for kitchen cutlery, but as you say, "tune-up" is easier, and if you have some clad kitchen knives, just tuning up the edge takes less metal off.
Stephen, I couldn't sharpen a knife like this free hand. Not even close. Using an Edge Pro I could keep the bevels flat but still it would be difficult because whenever the bevel is wider like this it's harder for me to get the attention to detail right on the edge apex I can get when using a seperate edge (micro) bevel. I use micro bevels even when the blade steel is capable of holding an edge at the angle of the scandi bevel just because touch ups are easy and fast with a seperate edge bevel. My hat is off to you for even trying. :)
Howard,
I would like to try dulling edges of different type steels just to see but I couldn't force myself to do that to the edges any more. I wasn't even trying to test edge retention when I started. I just wanted to dull the edge and when the M4 on the Gayle Bradley didn't get dull immediately I was amazed. Love CPM-M4 and that knife. :)
Jack
If I understand you correctly, Stephen, a Scandi grind is a convex grind and should be sharpened convex?
Thanks, Jack for the knife dulling videos.
I put this in the Spyderco lover's group also but since it has to do with edge sharpness and/or retention I put it here also for anyone who may not be a Spyderco lover. This is really (IMO) a good demo of edge retention of a given steel.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auBEgSmKApc
Here is another demo.
http://s800.photobucket.com/user/jackknifeh/media/Sharpening/DSCN54...
Here is another demo.
http://s800.photobucket.com/user/jackknifeh/media/Sharpening/DSCN54...
Grand children are very special. I think as we get older we appreciate children more and doing things with them is some of the best experiences we can have.
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