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In Memoriam Comment by D ale on December 21, 2019 at 21:01

Bruce,

Most makers or master cutlers in the repair business use either Brass or NS for handle pins .. as shown here for securing handles, bolsters, and guards. Often, for pivot pins too. I've also seen others use std nails of the appropriate size.
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However ..I apologize.. I'd forgotten about these. 
They are machined hardened stainless steel pivot pins. I use them mostly in my leverlocks. The are 0.125" in OD & 0.050" in length. The are machined threaded over the entirety of the internal length & come with the required threaded fasteners. These may be ideal for your intended purpose. 
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Note, if you prefer that the heads of the threaded fastener are flush w/ the bolsters .. you will need to drill them to just the required dia of the heads & only to a depth that would make them flush. I have used them both exposed (they have a pretty low profile as is) ..or.. have recessed the heads just to the point of being flush.

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You may need to sand their OAL of the pins to match what is your required purpose. I've also had to sand/file the overall length of the threaded fasteners for best fit. Once I'm happy w/ the fit .. I add threadlocker to insure they do not creep out w/ time.
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I purchased them from knifekits ..however.. their link is currently down -{maintenance or some such}- or I would have attached a link.  I currently have 4 of them in stock & could part with one if you need.
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Enjoy,

Dale

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 21, 2019 at 19:29

So, what you're telling me is the pin is nickel silver or SS rod? I would think either would be too soft to resist the friction of the blade rotation.  Then again, I have never built a slip joint of any type, so am just being sure I'm doing this correctly and not misinterpreting what you are telling me.  I really don't want to do this knife over.  

The pivot pin in the knives I have disassembled does seem to be .125.  One of the blades has the pivot hole wallowed out, but it is the one that will no be reused, so not an issue.  The pivot hole on the good blade measures out at about .128.  Is this about right?  I assumed there needs to be clearance, but wasn't sure .003 is not excessive.  

All input appreciated, as usual.

Bruce

In Memoriam Comment by D ale on December 21, 2019 at 18:06

Bruce ... Re: Pin Stock
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Brass round stock.

Nickel Silver Round Stock.
I've personally used Jantz supplies. Not for pins ..but.. certainly other parts. I've always been pleased with their service & parts I've sourced from them.
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Rod / pin stock from another supplier that I've used in the past. I've never experienced negative experiences from them either..

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I've also used USA Knife Maker's supplies ..but.. they're currently out of 0.125" pin stock in both brass & SS ..&.. I'm pretty sure the pivot pin used in a Schrade LB7 is 0.125".
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NOTE: when you reach the stage of peening the pivot pins .. place an 0.001" ~ 0.002" shim stock around the pins (both sides) between the frames & the blade. Cut enough of a slot into the shim stock the it will "saddle" the pin during the peening process. Also, use an old piece of inner tube or a sufficient pc of rubber that exposes just the pin to be peened while covering the surrounding bolsters or other parts you wish to minimize any damage.

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I'm lucky enough to have a real honest to goodness hardware store in town that meets most of my pin stock & tubing requirements.

Enjoy,

D ale

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 21, 2019 at 16:37

D ale,

Regarding your addendum, I would do the same myself if communicating with someone I was unaware of their expertise and knowledge.  As it happens, I do have a very wide background in a lot of stuff including metal work, but am never offended when receiving information.  Besides, someone who hasn't the background might read the thread and need the extended information.  

Now on to the meat of the matter.  The link you sent was instructional.  I was trying to use the utility blade wrong and had terrible luck.  Wound up drilling and punching pins to get the two knives apart.  Copacetic at this point.  Next problem is finding pins to put it all back together.  I am assuming the pivot for the blade needs to be semi-hard at least.  Am I correct or is simple mild steel going to hold up?  I have brass rod which I think will work for everything else, but the blade is a question mark in my mind.  I also had to remove the scales from the liners,since the ones I had are much nicer than the replacements.  Are these pins available somewhere reasonably or should I just use soft brass rod for these as well?  I'm sure setting them is going to be interesting.  

The whole project has been a learning experience.  I hadn't anticipated the necessity of truing the liners before reassembly, but it was necessary.  As stated, quite a learning experience.  

Thanks again for the assistance.

Bruce

In Memoriam Comment by D ale on December 21, 2019 at 14:51

Bruce .. take a look @ the attached LINK. It's authored by a very respected knife maker who specializes in repair. Useful pics are included / embedded w/i the link.
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Note: I've seen 2 other's who specialize in slipjoint repair. They both now use putty knives where they've sharpened one long edge to a durable edge (45 deg or slightly more". The advantage of putty knives, (sharpened on the edge intended for use specific to shearing pins), over using the industrial razor blade approach is the thinness of the putty knife & their enhanced strength & durability. I've seen this approach by 2 people that specialize in high volume slipjoint knife repair.
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I've also noted additional industrial razor blades adjacent to one another until the pin shears, i.e. the first industrial razor blade is firmly in place & starting the shear process, the 2cnd blade is introduced along side the 1st til the shearing action is completed.

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Note: Pins have to be soft enough to be peened. They are not hardened. By the same token, they are not so soft as gold or silver. Those are only used in "art" knives & then very rarely.
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Hope things are working out for the LB7 project !

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Enjoy,

D ale

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*Addendum: I never wish to come off as condescending in any of my remarks, such as .. " carbide end mills (fancy drill bits)". I just never know a person's skill level & rather over do it @ times. If you are already proficiently aware .. please excuse !

In Memoriam Comment by D ale on December 18, 2019 at 15:53

Thanks for the kind offer , Bruce. Genuinely appreciated !

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Leverlocks have a sear pin that drops into slots in the blade locking the blade in place for both the open & closed positions. I popped a couple open for you to take a look at the locking mechanisms.

My greatest concern was if there existed a sufficient area of the tang of the Kinfolks to make this a workable project. I used a bamboo barbecue skewer that was slightly larger then the 0.125" dia of the pins of these leverlocks. I also drove the bamboo skewer on through the 0.090" pin hole of the Kinfolks, forcing the 2 hole diameters to become coincident w/ one another, i.e. centered. This allowed me to insure there did indeed provide a sufficient area present in the tang of the Kinfolks. 
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I will have to enlarge the pivot hole of the Kinfolks to 0.125". Luckily, I have a small mill & a # of 0.125" carbide end mills (fancy drill bits). I will take great care to insure that the larger hole is centered on the original pre-existing pivot pin hole.
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Cutting of the slots will also require some thought. The open slot at the end of the tang is for the open position. Being open ended .. it will be fairly straight forward .. I hope. The enclosed slot is for the closed position & will require a bit more effort. I intend to (carbide) drill a hole in the appropriate position & then likely use up a # of needle files while finishing the process.

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I seem to be going on & on &on a bit ...........
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Thanks for the kind offer !
D ale

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 18, 2019 at 8:34

I think I have a couple of liners that can work on a liner lock, if you are interested.  Will have to check and measure them to see if they might be a candidate for your second project.  Sympathies on the Kinfolks.  I've had a couple of knives do that through the years, but nothing that nice.  Mine were el-cheapos that didn't amount to anything to begin with.  Let me know if you want me to check and good luck with both projects.

In Memoriam Comment by D ale on December 17, 2019 at 22:47

The knife I'm currently working on is a Kinfolks Folding Hunter model #8292. I purchased it back in the early 80's on the cheap because one of the backsprings was broken. I told myself .. when I got my skill set up .. I'd fix it ! Then, bagged it at the time. Sometime later while going through some other knives I discovered this one had gassed out.

!!! . Sad Day . !!!

I removed all the remaining celluloid & sadly re-bagged it again. Recently, now became that time I referred to so many yrs ago.

I now intend to use the 2 liners w/ bolsters, intact spring, & the larger of the blades back into a single blade Folding Hunter. I hope to build the smaller blade into a leverlock auto. Please, wish me luck on the latter endeavor.

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 17, 2019 at 22:32

I had always figured the pivot pins would be hardened.  The center pin, not so much.  Guess I was wrong about the pivot pin.  As an aside, I bought a batch of Schrade parts a while back on ebay, so if you need liners for Schrade, I might have it.  Unfortunately, there wasn't one for the LB7 in question.  Couple of unground medium size blades as well.  

In Memoriam Comment by D ale on December 17, 2019 at 22:22

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