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Here is my current light set-up...about 10 years of upgrades and accumulation!! I'm using 3 Alien Bee strobe lights with 2 Soft boxes, also a defuser for the main strobe. My current camera is a Canon 40D DSLR tethered to either my IMac or Windows Laptop. Up running Adobe Photoshop CS3 for my editing software.

I'm constantly changing the setup to try to get that perfect picture but am not there by any means. I've been taking my own knife picture for at least 10 years, starting out with film, then going digital with the first model of the Sony Digital Mavica. Since then I've gone through Fujifilm, Nikon, and have settled on Canon. I'm happy with my 40D but am looking to upgrade to a full frame 5d Mark II at some point.

One thing that I learned early on is that the camera is secondary to taking good knife pictures...lighting is the key whether you a shooting in natural light, flood lamps, or strobes. As a good friend, who is a professional catalog photographer, said to to me, "photography is painting with light".

My studio was formally our dining room...with my wife's full support (smile if you believe that!!) we now eat on TV trays in the Den. I'm now able to not only take my own, but also work in a few knife pictures for other makers.

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Hey there Johnny. Looks like you have come a long way in your lighting skills. My photography professor would always say that "a camera is something you talk through." I always keep this in mind when working with the camera. I do have some suggestions regarding your lighting set-up. One thing that is very useful is a good sized sheet of foamcore. 1/4 inch thick is fine. You can cut this up into pieces and stand them up around the knife to fill shadows and reduce brightness range. The other thing you could try is to take the one strobe head on the left and lower it down to almost table height and remove the diffusing material. You may be familiar with grids or honeycomb attachments for the strobe reflector. Speedotron makes them as well as many other brands. this will give you a very directional light that will really help to define the handle material much better. Some other little lighting tricks: use some mylar or even aluminum foil and crumple it up so it has lots of wrinkles in it. this is a great tool for modifying light and filling shadows. Another is to use small mirrors to bounce light around the set. hope this gives you some new ideas. i have worked in the field of commercial photography most of my life and love playing with light to create mood. talk to you again and enjoy the table top photography.
Johnny,
What lens or lenses do you use?, I use a Canon 20D and Love it, My wife has a 5D, but I find the 20D best for knives up to about 10 in. in length, the 5D works well on longer pieces.
Thanks Michael...I do have a couple of the grids for the strobes that I occasionally use, but the other tips you gave I'll have to try.


Johnny
James, I use several, but my main lense is the 28x135mm kit lense that cam with my camera. I had a Canon 24X70MM L lense but didn't get the pictures from it that I thought I should. I ended up selling it but wish I had it back now.
Thanks Kyley.

Johnny
I use mostly either a 50mm macro lens or a 100mm macro, but I have to move the camera a lot in order to fill the frame, I just bought a new 24-105 for my wife's 5D and have not used it yet, but I think it may be a good option. It is the lens that comes with the 5Dd Mark2 kit if you buy the kit instead of the body only. It is a professional grade lens and a little pricey, but may be a really good choice. I will let you know after I have a chance to use it some.
James, with my limited experience I've found that a telephoto lens is the best type for knife photography. I've talked to some of the professional photographers that specialize in knives, and they are all using some variation of a telephoto lens. You should really like the 24-105 and should see a big difference.
i kind of fired off a quick reply before rushing out the door this afternoon. the mylar should be "silver" mylar. you can do the same thing with the mylar as i described with the aluminum foil. crumple it up and then straighten it out again so it's flat but not completely flat. you can then staple it or stick it to a rigid piece of cardboard or foamcore. you could use spray mount too. you've got the diffused light figured out pretty well. the real trick that will really elevate your photographs to a new level is mixing diffused light with "raw" or direct light. shooting outdoors (what we called gods light) when photographing cars in Detroit is definitley a good alternative and overcast days are indeed the days that offer the most beautiful and subtle effects (especially for highly reflective objects) like cars and knife blades. Photogrphing jewelry presents many of the same challenges and is usually a specialty in the commercial photogrphy industry. i guess the best way to contribute to our group is by doing some videos.
Hey James. If you're using Canons the best lens (in my experience) has always been the 105 micro-nikkor. it may be called something different today but that focal length gives you some working distance from the product and has the close focusing capabilities too. A 50 mm macro is fine too but you have to get the camera so close to the object that sometimes you will see the camera reflected in the object. Lighting is the paramount concern that will define your vision from all others. good luck.
Michael, if you make videos I'll be the first one in line.

Johnny
James, I use several, but my main lens is the 28-135mm kit lens that came with my camera. I had a Canon 24-70MM L lens but didn't get the pictures from it that I thought I should. I ended up selling it but wish I had it back now.

Johnny
What is the "ball joint " thing?
Where did you get it?
I need one of those
Does it attach to the "regular" camera/tripod mount?

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