Knife Repair, Modification, Restoration & Improvement


Knife Repair, Modification, Restoration & Improvement

This group is hosted by D ale, for knife enthusiasts who are interested in repairing, modifiying, restoring or improving knives, including fixed blades, folders and automatics of all types.

Members: 197
Latest Activity: Aug 31

Discussion Forum


Started by Kevin D. Last reply by Lars Ray Aug 27. 5 Replies

Good Evening!I just acquired a USN MK2 knife a couple of days ago.  The grip's leather discs were horribly dehydrated, and the guard was a bit bent; but for the most part, it was in pretty good shape.  It really needed some cleaning and just a touch…Continue

restoration of a bayonet?

Started by Kevin D. Last reply by Kevin D Jul 12. 2 Replies

Good evening everybody!I have a question that will probably have as many answers as there are opinions on it.I recently came into the stewardship of a 1888 Prussian bayonet.  Before actually taking possession, I thought it was a 1940ish bayonet,…Continue


Started by Jan Carter Jul 12, 2020. 0 Replies

Best steel guideJust thought this would be a great place to house this linkContinue

Tags: steels

an old butcher knife...

Started by Dan Neyhouse. Last reply by D ale Dec 17, 2019. 4 Replies

Hello everyone, Merry Christmas! I found an old Robeson ShurEdge butcher knife awhile back, in a flowerbed of all places. Cleaned it up a bit, it's still pitted, and from what I've been able to find online, not worth much. I would like to reuse this…Continue

Premium Knife supply - Blade blanks for customization

Started by Brad T.. Last reply by Brad T. Sep 25, 2019. 133 Replies

Over the last week I acquired 4 blade blanks for customization. The materials they use for their "S" line of products are 440C, manufactured in China.The ones I selected are pictured below:…Continue

Tags: Customize, handles, Supply, Knife, blanks

Mikov kit

Started by D ale. Last reply by D ale Aug 23, 2019. 56 Replies

 Here's a place to share resources.The pics will provide something to aspire too.Share a little about your kit experience !!! …Continue

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In Memoriam
Comment by D ale on December 17, 2019 at 22:47

The knife I'm currently working on is a Kinfolks Folding Hunter model #8292. I purchased it back in the early 80's on the cheap because one of the backsprings was broken. I told myself .. when I got my skill set up .. I'd fix it ! Then, bagged it at the time. Sometime later while going through some other knives I discovered this one had gassed out.

!!! . Sad Day . !!!

I removed all the remaining celluloid & sadly re-bagged it again. Recently, now became that time I referred to so many yrs ago.

I now intend to use the 2 liners w/ bolsters, intact spring, & the larger of the blades back into a single blade Folding Hunter. I hope to build the smaller blade into a leverlock auto. Please, wish me luck on the latter endeavor.

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 17, 2019 at 22:32

I had always figured the pivot pins would be hardened.  The center pin, not so much.  Guess I was wrong about the pivot pin.  As an aside, I bought a batch of Schrade parts a while back on ebay, so if you need liners for Schrade, I might have it.  Unfortunately, there wasn't one for the LB7 in question.  Couple of unground medium size blades as well.  

In Memoriam
Comment by D ale on December 17, 2019 at 22:22

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 17, 2019 at 21:48

D ale,

I had seen this process somewhere but thought it looked like difficult to cut the pins.  Hadn't thought of the utility blades.  That's how I will proceed.  Looks like you are doing the same thing I'm trying with a different knife.  Guess we'll have to keep this dialogue going until we're both done.  Thank you, yet again for a road map.


In Memoriam
Comment by D ale on December 17, 2019 at 21:11


I have a mini-mill & used to do very similar to what your currently thinking. I would center punch the pin to be removed & would then drill (using a drill slightly undersize) the said pin to a depth of  ~0.031".  I would then use (again, slightly undersize of the given pin) & drift out the pin using the punch. Unfortunately, the used pins often become bent our out line from use. I would then drill to a deeper depth & try drifting the pin out again. Sometimes it didn't work out quite the way I'd hoped.

After perusing a # of other forums .. I discovered an almost universal method. I see it used by so many others ..simply because.. it works. That method is to use utility type razor blades. You start by edging the utility blade between the liner & the blade ..or.. between the liner & the back spring. Slowly but somewhat forcefully the utility blade is forced into the pin, which will shear the pin. Sometimes more than one utility blade will be required.

NOTE: I am currently working on a project that required full disassembly. See pic.

I did not have any utility razor blades in the house & wasn't about to run into town for any. One thing I do have in my house is an abundance of knives. go figure. What I very successfully used was an old used up Catt kitchen knife. The spine of the blade measured on 0.045" thick .. ideal. It worked quite successfully. And big Kudos to the old Catt. Take a look @ the Catt blade's edge & you'll not see a single notch @ the cutting edge of the Catt after shearing all 3 required pins. 
If a slight burr is present @ the btm of the sheared pin .. either sand out the burr ..or.. use a dremel cut-off wheel (lightly) till you removed any burr left from the shearing action. Generally speaking, I can usually just drift the pins out using a punch w/o any additional clean-up of burrs left from the shearing action.

Also .. by utility type razor blades .. I mean those pictured below.

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 17, 2019 at 19:46

Questions are always useful when trying to figure out a problem.  I think we worked the problem well.  I think the only way to make the marriage work and come out with a good knife will be to take them both apart and use the best parts.  It may be a little tricky to fit the scale from one to the frame of the other, but that's a bridge to cross when it is met..  My thought is to drill out the center pivot and then the blade axle.  Any thoughts about this approach?

In Memoriam
Comment by D ale on December 17, 2019 at 12:45

Thanks for the response, Bruce. Feedback keeps me doing this.
I'm glad to hear the H&B w/ MOP worked out for you. I know I queried a # of questions before giving an actual response. I just wanted to insure of providing the best possible approach. Again, pleased to hear it worked out just fine for you !
Yet another question, will you be completely dis-assembling the LB7 w/ used up blade ?
Thanks again for the feedback, I personally appreciate it ..plus.. other members can also benefit from the "it worked" point. 



D ale

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 16, 2019 at 20:20

Hi D ale,

Sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner.  I tried the epoxy route on the H & B MOP knife and it worked a treat!  The scale is tight and no damage to anything.  I still have to do the clean up on the whole knife, but now I will definitely feel it worth the effort.  

I also ordered the Schrade LB7 with the used up blade.  The frame is slightly bent, but I think it is totally repairable.  Will start on this one soon and let you know how it progresses.  Thank you for the reassurance I needed to tackle these projects.  I'm not one to shy away from a new challenge, but just wasn't positive I was headed the right direction.  Thanks, again.


In Memoriam
Comment by D ale on December 7, 2019 at 19:07

While pearl is simply beautiful, it is also quite fragile. 

I believe this to be the safest approach.

D ale

Comment by Bruce Zenge on December 7, 2019 at 18:49

D ale,

Guess I will have to get some epoxy.  I have used a good deal of it over the years, but have none currently.  Also just picked up a couple of small clamps today that will be perfect to hold everything together.  Thanks for all the help and suggestions.  This should be worth the effort when done.  



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