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Knife Sharpeners

Who does not want a sharp knife? If it does not come from the factory that way, or if your knifemaker only put a "safety" edge on it...you want it sharp...right? Join us as we explore ways to do just that!

Members: 176
Latest Activity: Mar 24, 2021

Discussion Forum

pull through sharpening aids//Fast New Bevel

Started by richard m bissell III Nov 4, 2020. 0 Replies

Grindstone city, history of a unique grrindstone

Started by Jan Carter. Last reply by allanm Jul 25, 2017. 2 Replies

Knife Robot: World's First Auto Knife Sharpener

Started by Steve Scheuerman (Manx). Last reply by D ale Mar 18, 2017. 17 Replies

WIcked Edge owner experiences....

Started by AlecsKnives. Last reply by John Bamford Jul 14, 2016. 4 Replies

USB microscopes ?

Started by John Bamford. Last reply by Jan Carter Jan 31, 2016. 34 Replies

I'll sharpen your knife for free (except return shipping)

Started by Jack Haskins, Jr.. Last reply by Kees ( KC ) Mension Dec 7, 2015. 11 Replies

3 dimensional pivot point on sharpening tool.

Started by Thomas Lofvenmark. Last reply by Thomas Lofvenmark Nov 29, 2015. 4 Replies

Smith's 2-Step Knife Sharpener

Started by Charles Sample. Last reply by J.J. Smith III Nov 28, 2015. 9 Replies

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Comment by Thomas Lofvenmark on June 24, 2013 at 13:03
My two cents, part 1

Really sharp edges, 1 molecyle thick, was made in obsidan during the stone age for about 12.000 yeras ago. We cannot today get our edges so thin, and so sharp.

The problem stone age people had was that their edges was to sharp, and to fragile. So, for about 10.000 years ago they start to grind their edges. Not to get the edges sharper, but to get them "duller" - and stronger. What they did was to grind those very thin edges to a higher edge angle. What they got was a stronger edge, but not so sharp.

They understodd, for 10.000 years ago, that a scarry sharp thin edge is rather useless for outdoor life, hunting, and so on. For that type of life the edge must be both sharp - and strong. They understood that an edge shall be as sharp it need to be for its use, not sharper, or duller, than that.

In those days they have three main tools. One pointy tool to make hole with. One curved edge to skin with, and one tool with a straight edge to slice with.

Then come bronze and iron. Those three stone tools was put together to one tool, our first " multi tool" and it become our knifes with a straight part for slizing, a curved part for skinning and with a point for penetration, holemaking and drilling.

For about 1000 years ago, the first sharpening tools was inovated. We have drawings who are about 800 years old on sharpening tools of different types. People then still understood edges and they understood different edge angles importance.

All belt knifes in those days had convex edges. This becouse people sharpen them by free hand. The problem people in those days had was that they whittle a lot in wood - and they understood that flat edges was needed, so, they invented two things they needed, sharpening tools - and to flatten their sharpeners who was made in soft mateials and becouse of this become concave very fast. They did understand that they cannot grind a flat edge with a concave sharpener, if they did - the edge will be convex.

So, they flatten their sharpeners - and they use sharpening tools to get the edges flat in specific angles - that types of edges they need to have for fine wood woork. Their belt knifes still have convex edges.

Most of the sharpening tools we have today use the same principles as sharpening tools used for 1000 years ago. They use the law of physics. (dont argu against the law of physics please).

Take Lansky for example. The knife are clamped in the tool and it cannot move. The sharpening angle is also locked in the same tool, this means that the law of phycics rule. The result cannot be anything else than a perfect flat edge.

Most sharpening tools today use the law of physics.

Some sharpening tools do not works like this - and - the edge cannot be perfectly flat, the edge will be slightly convex. To get a perfect flat edge, both the blade and the sharpening angle must be locked in the same tool. If they are - the edge will be perfectly flat. It cannot be anything else
Comment by Lee Smith on May 13, 2013 at 21:31

I have been using ez-lap diamond stones for a few years and have had real good luck with them. It took a lot of practice to learn how to do it free hand. I have noticed lately that when I start to get tired my hands start to shake. Parkinson's runs in the family. Seems like I can get them almost to the edge that I want and my hands shake and I knock it off. It's very frustrating. So I was looking on the net today and discovered that ez-lap has a sharpening system that might help. Has anyone tried one? 

Comment by Jan Carter on April 5, 2013 at 19:17

I have been watching videos on freehand sharpening, wow there are some "different" techniques out there.  If I find a good one I will bring it over for you to see but so far I have just seen parts of each that are good LOL

Comment by Ron Cooper on April 1, 2013 at 15:33

Yep! I've used newspaper to strop a blade before. In a pinch I've also used cardboard.

Comment by Ron Cooper on April 1, 2013 at 13:27

I'm one of those who struggles with freehand sharpening. I can usually get some portion of the edge sharp. Usually the area near the tip of the blade. But all bets are off when it comes to getting a uniform edge over the entire length of the blade. Especially if I'm attempting to sharpen a recurved edge!

So, in light of what I've stated above, for the last year or so I have been using a Spyderco Sharpmaker and achieving a much better result. It's pretty much a foolproof system since the ceramic stones are set at predetermined angles - 30 or 40 degrees. I just hold the blade straight up and down and draw it down and across the rods/stones. Voila!

I think there is an aspect to sharpening that doesn't get enough attention and that is stropping. I have discovered that once I get a good edge on a blade it's really rarely necessary to return to the stones unless I've either damaged the edge or tremendously dulled it by cutting some particularly difficult substance. During normal use I can usually get my edge back on a leather strop. Sometimes I will use stropping compounds. But not often. I usually just use jewelers rouge or bare leather.

This is a great topic, though. I only wish I had the skills to get that killer edge freehand. Sadly I don't. *sigh* I also wish I had a spare 4 to 5 hundred bucks laying around that I could shuck out for a Wicked Edge or Edge Pro sharpening system. Sadly I don't have that either. *even bigger sigh* Oh, well!

Comment by Jan Carter on March 31, 2013 at 9:42

You know,

I think Robert is on to something   We see a lot about sharpening "systems" out there.  How about those that know the art of getting an edge free hand?

Comment by Ron Cooper on March 26, 2013 at 0:11

Steve, you scoff at the idea of push cutting toilet paper. You've obviously never had to field dress a roll of Charmin 2 ply, have you? Unless your knife is razor sharp you run the risk of puncturing the cardboard tube and contaminating the entire roll.

Now, if you'll excuse me, I have to get my tongue out of my cheek.


In Memoriam
Comment by Robert Burris on January 12, 2013 at 19:59

If ya'll can wait till I get a chance, I may try to give ya'll a few pointers on how I sharpen a knife, free hand. I'm just too busy right now to get it together. It's important that it's explained correctly, that's why it will take me some time to post it.

Comment by Ron Cooper on January 12, 2013 at 2:12

People are always saying that I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed. So, I thought, maybe, if I joined this group I could figure out how to get a little sharper?


In Memoriam
Comment by Robert Burris on May 30, 2012 at 13:57

We need a discussion on knife sharpening, we use to have one. Is there anyone up to the task of making a "Knife Sharpening Discussion"? It could be the basics, using an oil stone, a wet stone and maybe a diamond board.

 
 
 

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