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Whittling / Carving knives

For those who like to carv/whittle something. We will talk about all knife types for whittling, about types of wood and types of whittling.

If you just collect a Whittler knives, you are also invited!

Location: All aroud the world!
Members: 76
Latest Activity: Aug 31, 2022

Tom T. Hall - The Whittler

Discussion Forum

Whittlins

Started by J.J. Smith III. Last reply by Kenneth W. Hill Nov 30, 2020. 53 Replies

If you enjoy whittlin and carving, why not show some of your work. Post your pics here...Continue

Next whittling knife.

Started by John Bamford. Last reply by Lewis E.Ward Jul 9, 2020. 9 Replies

Although I am tempted by the latest GEC folder for my new whittling knife, it certainly is a great looking knife, I want to try a fixed blade for a change.I have narrowed my choice down to three,…Continue

whittlers,large grip.

Started by richard m bissell III. Last reply by richard m bissell III Sep 27, 2019. 2 Replies

If you have the hand for them, there are sunfish size, whittler pattern knives out there which are new made and carry the brand names Winchester and Kabar.// They can be a bit pricey however they…Continue

Oar Carving Knife / Single Locker (modified Queen Cutlery 41-L, Copperhead)

Started by J.J. Smith III. Last reply by Tom Peterson Dec 20, 2018. 35 Replies

   Kaylin and I went to the Charlotte Woodcarvers Club, annual show, this past weekend, and I was fortunate to see Robert Stadtlander, from Stadtlander Woodcarvings.  I was hoping to find an…Continue

Tags: Stadtlander, Queen, Carver, Oar

WoodBeeCarver.com

FUNDAMENTALS OF ART

The Fundamentals of Drawing listed above are useful for wood carvers to consider these same fundamentals in the process of designing and shaping of any carving project. OBSERVATION ~ Observation begins with imagination and then study of the subject to blend in with imagination to form a mental image of the carving project. As the subject is in the process of being carved, observation continues to guide the process. COMPOSITION ~ Composition in carving is when all the different elements of the carving are put together to create a desired effect. Does the carving look like a decorated telephone pole and is it a figure that shows a sense of movement and tells a story in its pose? LINE QUALITY ~ Line quality are visual lines that outline the carving as if tracing the lines that are viewed while looking at the completed carving project. Are there lines to move and follow the normal curves of movement and action or are there too many straight and wooden lines that do not bend away from having a boxy look. For example, the front of the chin bone of leg is straight while the back of the leg chin bone is the calf muscles of the leg that has a curved line. Curving lines in a carving are more eye catching that straight lines as in a straight arm along the side of the body is not as interesting as an arm bent at the elbow and a hand holding an object. SHAPE AND FORM ~ In carving, the first process is the “Shape Up the Basic Form” of the subject to become a silhouette that will guide the detail portion of the carving process. “Form follows function and detail follow form,” making the Shape and Form essential in the carving process. PROPORTION ~ Proportions are what keeps the carving balanced for if a section of the carving is out of proportion the overall effect falls apart. Proportions help is keeping the design honest and true to its intended purpose. Even in caricature carvings which exaggerates proportions for an added effect, such exaggerations must be balanced with the rest of the proportions. The Rule of Three for Facial proportions in three divisions are: Hairline to Eyebrow; Eyebrow to Nose Tip; Nose Tip to Bottom of Chin. The Rule of Three for Body Proportions in three divisions are: Shoulder to Waist; Waist to Mid Knees; Mid Knees to Bottom of Feet. Using these two rule of proportions as a visual guide will guide the carving process both in Observation and in Shape and Form set up. PERSPECTIVE ~ Perspective in carving is the ability create depth on a flat surface or create a 3-D effect to amplify a flat surface. Relief carving utilizes Perspective more than a carving in the round. However, in carving in the round, there may be areas where perspective comes into play to amplify depth in a shallow area. For examples texturing clothing with wrinkles and folds or the row of buttons on a shirt or the belt lace through the belt loops of the pants. Shallow cuts of stair step fashion can create a depth of perspective in a relief sort of way. One definition states “the art of representing three-dimensional object on a two-dimensional surface so as to give the right impression of their height. width, depth, and position in relation to each other.” SHADING ~ Shading is the technique used to create the illusions of depth and volume in a drawing or painting that involves varying the darkness and lightness in colors to represent light and shadow. For carving in wood, shading can be accomplished by varying the depts of cuts in designated areas of the carving subject to create depth and texture that contribute to darkness and lightness that implies “Texture is Color.” Consider this effect as being applied to a carving that will be finished in a monochrome (one color) natural finish. Of course, if the carving is to be painted with multicolor, then Shading would enhance the carved texturing. This discussing of Fundamental Art terms as describing drawing and paint art has been applied to the wood carving process has been only a brief comparison. A more extensive understanding of these fundamentals can be researched on the internet by listing each one in the search box by using each term and adding “in Art” to the search. Any small tid bit of information car enhance an understanding the enhances the carving process. LINE QUALITY ~ Line quality are visual lines that outline the carving as if tracing the lines that are viewed while looking at the completed carving project. Are there lines to move and follow the normal curves of movement and action or are there too many straight and wooden lines that do not bend away from having a boxy look. For example, the front of the chin bone of leg is straight while the back of the leg chin bone is the calf muscles of the leg that has a curved line. Curving lines in a carving are more eye catching that straight lines as in a straight arm along the side of the body is not as interesting as an arm bent at the elbow and a hand holding an object. SHAPE AND FORM ~ In carving, the first process is the “Shape Up the Basic Form” of the subject to become a silhouette that will guide the detail portion of the carving process. “Form follows function and detail follow form,” making the Shape and Form essential in the carving process. PROPORTION ~ Proportions are what keeps the carving balanced for if a section of the carving is out of proportion the overall effect falls apart. Proportions help is keeping the design honest and true to its intended purpose. Even in caricature carvings which exaggerates proportions for an added effect, such exaggerations must be balanced with the rest of the proportions. The Rule of Three for Facial proportions in three divisions are: Hairline to Eyebrow; Eyebrow to Nose Tip; Nose Tip to Bottom of Chin. The Rule of Three for Body Proportions in three divisions are: Shoulder to Waist; Waist to Mid Knees; Mid Knees to Bottom of Feet. Using these two rule of proportions as a visual guide will guide the carving process both in Observation and in Shape and Form set up. PERSPECTIVE ~ Perspective in carving is the ability create depth on a flat surface or create a 3-D effect to amplify a flat surface. Relief carving utilizes Perspective more than a carving in the round. However, in carving in the round, there may be areas where perspective comes into play to amplify depth in a shallow area. For examples texturing clothing with wrinkles and folds or the row of buttons on a shirt or the belt lace through the belt loops of the pants. Shallow cuts of stair step fashion can create a depth of perspective in a relief sort of way. One definition states “the art of representing three-dimensional object on a two-dimensional surface so as to give the right impression of their height. width, depth, and position in relation to each other.” SHADING ~ Shading is the technique used to create the illusions of depth and volume in a drawing or painting that involves varying the darkness and lightness in colors to represent light and shadow. For carving in wood, shading can be accomplished by varying the depts of cuts in designated areas of the carving subject to create depth and texture that contribute to darkness and lightness that implies “Texture is Color.” Consider this effect as being applied to a carving that will be finished in a monochrome (one color) natural finish. Of course, if the carving is to be painted with multicolor, then Shading would enhance the carved texturing. This discussing of Fundamental Art terms as describing drawing and paint art has been applied to the wood carving process has been only a brief comparison. A more extensive understanding of these fundamentals can be researched on the internet by listing each one in the search box by using each term and adding “in Art” to the search. Any small tid bit of information car enhance an understanding the enhances the carving process.

BE SHARP AND NEVER DULL ~ Part 1

This manicure knife was rescued from a flea market in the early 1980’s as part of the Wood Bee Carver’s pursuit of suitable knives that could be modified into a carving tool. Even though one half of the scissors’ blade was missing this novelty knife invited an interest to pursue its usefulness. Beside the scissor […]

HALF PINT~ Bunk House Five

Six-inch-tall cowpokes carved as the Bunk House Five were carved in August, 2024 and now have been carved as the three-inch-tall Half Pint versions.  Six-inch-tall figures are carved in the one-inch scale of an inch equals a foot.  Half Pint figures are carved in the half inch scale equals a foot making them half sized […]

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Comment by Brian Martin on November 15, 2013 at 19:57

Sweet knives Ivars!!

Comment by J.J. Smith III on November 15, 2013 at 19:47

I'm fond of Barlows too.  Saw a nice stag handeled sway back in a hardware store in North Carolina once.  Didn't pick it up at that time, but came back the next day and it was gone.  You snooze, you loose.

I'd love to have one with a coping blade secondary.  I'd be ALL over that.

Comment by Howard P Reynolds on November 15, 2013 at 10:40

Thanks, guys.  It looks like I need to get at least a couple different carvers.  The Oar carver looks good, and so does the 2-blade GEC.  The Seahorse is also worth a try.  I don't intend on being a dedicated carver, so I should probably pick one of the three and go with it.  However, I do like to test knives and I need more than one to make comparisons.  Probably any well made Whittler would do for someone like me who intends to just play around.  You guys don't think I need a Bill Ruple Whittler do you?  Hahahahaha.

Comment by J.J. Smith III on November 14, 2013 at 18:47

Howard,

In the end, it all depends on what you want to carve.  Dedicated carving knives are nice, but a slip joint whittler let's you carry it anywhere you like.  Ivar's makes excellent observations and recommendations tho I like the downturn on the Seahorses main blade.  He makes his own carving knives, while I like to modify knives to suit my tastes,  

http://www.iknifecollector.com/photo/albums/knife-modifications.

Either way, experiment with what's available.

Comment by Howard P Reynolds on November 14, 2013 at 17:33

Ivars,

I looked at Oar carvers today, too.  They look pretty good, and as you say, Queen makes them.  And a Canoe is my favorite knife pattern in folders.  Also, I think you are correct about 1095 or high carbon steel being easy to work with and sharpen.  My problem with it is that most of my life I lived without central heating/cooling, and rust loves hot and humid weather.  I live in a controlled environment now, but it's hard to forget all the pitting I experienced with carbon bladed knives.  Whatever carver I get will sit around a long time between uses.

Comment by Howard P Reynolds on November 14, 2013 at 17:19

Thanks, J.J.,  Good point about "pocket worn", that is, might want smooth bone or wood for the scales/handles for comfort.

I took a look around the Internet this afternoon and a sowbelly might feel pretty good, but they have 4 and sometimes 5 blades which makes for a little fatter knife, and I don't have big hands.

Comment by J.J. Smith III on November 14, 2013 at 15:57
I'm a big fan of the Seahorse, Howard.
If you can find one in "pocket worn" you'll love it. You can always smooth out the edges of the scales to your liking on a regular one.
Comment by Howard P Reynolds on November 14, 2013 at 14:49

Well, that does it, Steve.  I have to get a whittler.  What make/kind do I need?  I bought a "Carvin Jack" just so I had something, but reading this blog it seems that REAL carvers don't much like the "Carvin Jack".  So, Seahorse Whittlers look good, but do they feel better in the hand than a straight Whittler?  As you know, I am not much for 1095, even though that is what the "Carvin Jack" is.  D2 sounds like a good option, but are there any "super steel" (154 CPM, Aus-10, S30V,etc.) carvers out there?

Comment by Howard P Reynolds on November 14, 2013 at 13:43

Hahahaha.  Steve, that is something (walking stick carving) I can't do with my big Busse knife - totem pole maybe, but not fine work.  Great talent, and I saw on "Antiques Roadshow" that a couple old ones, from nobody famous, brought some big bucks.

Comment by Brian Martin on November 9, 2013 at 22:17

They fit in the hand nice Howard and don't feel heavy in the pocket make nice EDC.  Thanks Pat I am trying to make better pics, working on better lighting is my next goal.

 
 
 

whiteriverknives.com

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