Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by J.J. Smith III on October 8, 2016 at 16:22

If it was mine,  I'd need to assess the possibility of the further deterioration of the scales.  If they're susceptible to gassing, I'd definitely replace them.

Monetarily, haven't a clue as to value, as is, but converted to a single blade, with nice scales, it'd be a dandy user.

Permalink Reply by Terry Koch on October 8, 2016 at 16:42

I agree, the scales got to go. Both are broke into two pieces. Also multiple smaller cracks. The chances of finding a matching blade are slim to none. I'm really liking the single blade conversion more and more. It's a cool blade.thanks

Terry

J.J. Smith III said:

If it was mine,  I'd need to assess the possibility of the further deterioration of the scales.  If they're susceptible to gassing, I'd definitely replace them.

Monetarily, haven't a clue as to value, as is, but converted to a single blade, with nice scales, it'd be a dandy user.

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on October 8, 2016 at 17:22

Terry

The enlarged bolster that curves upward @ the blade pivot end is what defines a "copperhead" model.They sort of act as a finger stop or guard when grasping the knife in use.

.

By the pics .. you've a model 48 there .. cannot explain the (obvious to me) R2049 stamping.

.

Personally, I'd convert to a single blade jack for EDC. However, I've a mill ..&.. some experience doing the required conversion steps. For you ..if you've not done something like this before.. I'd suggest picking up a very inexpensive old beater knife & do the same to it first .. as a learning experience BEFORE diving into any conversion of the one you have pictured.

NOTE: No offense intended.

It's the learning experience & the mistakes one makes the first time 'round you'd wish to avoid with the real thing !!! Also, the center liner would be saved & used as a guide when transferring the required holes to the new scale material. While it would NOT be implemented in the resulting single blade jack .. in its final form .. I clearly wish to emphasize its value in the process as a "hole transfer" pattern ..or.. device !!!

.

Enjoy

D ale

Terry Koch said:

I'm out at the lake now. Will check it when I get back, tonite or tomorrow afternoon. Looking at the 6249 pic, it has an enlarged bolster on the blade end that's also rounded. This one is square looking. Maybe it was different 100 years ago?

Thanks

Terry

Permalink Reply by Jan Carter on October 8, 2016 at 18:37

I agree with Dale.  I do not see value in the knife as it is but I see plenty of value in a single blade EDC making the knife usable again.  I love to see an old knife get a new life 

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by John McCain on October 8, 2016 at 19:10

Terry- THIS IS a R-2048 2 blade slimline trapper- The R is the designation for Candy stripe celluloid, although the designation was used occasionally on other celluloid patterns. It appears to be from the Case Era, circa 1905-14. In great condition it would have been worth several hundred dollars, but unfortunately, yours is not in great shape.To restore to original by a professional would be very costly, and would not make it worth much more than it cost you to repair it. In addition, to repair to original would mean replacing those candy stripe celluloid scales, which along with the Waterfall celluloid, were the 2 patterns most notorious for gassing. I know, as I have had one of each rust a blade to ruin literally overnight. You could sell it as a parts knife, but I doubt you would get much for it. I agree with Jan and Dale your best bet would be to convert it to a single blade trapper, definitely with some new scales. It should make a very nice EDC knife. In the mean time, keep it away from any other knives you have, to prevent them from rusting from gassing.

Permalink Reply by Terry Koch on October 8, 2016 at 20:12

Thank you every one for all the info and advice. I will be converting this knife to a single blade trapper with new scales. It'll be my second project after I practice on a learner knife. I'll post pics when it's done.

Thanks again

Terry


John McCain said:

Terry- THIS IS a R-2048 2 blade slimline trapper- The R is the designation for Candy stripe celluloid, although the designation was used occasionally on other celluloid patterns. It appears to be from the Case Era, circa 1905-14. In great condition it would have been worth several hundred dollars, but unfortunately, yours is not in great shape.To restore to original by a professional would be very costly, and would not make it worth much more than it cost you to repair it. In addition, to repair to original would mean replacing those candy stripe celluloid scales, which along with the Waterfall celluloid, were the 2 patterns most notorious for gassing. I know, as I have had one of each rust a blade to ruin literally overnight. You could sell it as a parts knife, but I doubt you would get much for it. I agree with Jan and Dale your best bet would be to convert it to a single blade trapper, definitely with some new scales. It should make a very nice EDC knife. In the mean time, keep it away from any other knives you have, to prevent them from rusting from gassing.

Permalink Reply by Terry Koch on October 8, 2016 at 21:52

I'm home now . The length is 4 1/8". 3 1/8" length on the blade. What needs to be milled during the conversion?

D ale said:

OK .. I'm referencing ....

The Standard Knife Collector's Guide

Identification & ValuesSecond edition

By Roy Ritchie & Ron Stewart

According to my notes on the inside cover .. I purchased this in Sept 1992.

.

Note: The # 48 pattern is listed as being manufactured with yellow composition scale material ..&.. what I see pictured could easily be a faded old version of exactly that.

.

The pattern # 49 pictured directly below it appears to have an almost identical main blade.

The descriminating feature appears to be the OAL closed .. the # 48 is 4.125" while the # 49 is 3.938".

.

What is the OAL of the one you have in hand ???

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on October 9, 2016 at 3:54

Terrry

For this conversion .. a mill's not required !!

It would make some things easier ..but.. a drill press will more than suffice. A pin vise will even do for the drilling of the scales.

Might I inquire .. what did you ..OR.. do you do for a living ???  Just trying to get a feel for your level of experience or skill set when it comes to mechanical aptitude.

I did a scale replacement of a factory pinned knife HERE .. lots of pics in the comments section .. it lays out most of the steps involved in this conversion. The conversion to a single blade jack will require complete dis-assembly ..(unlike what's pictured in the referenced discussion).. however, the required steps are all there.

I did a scale replacement on a knife that used all threaded fasteners HERE .. might be worth the read .. the hole transfer process .. perhaps.

I did a friction folder HERE .. the pinning process is pertinent as is the use of the center liner of your project in the layout process for your new scales

I did an SS 3.0 kit HERE .. the hole transfer process is the same as you'll implement in the conversion of your knife .. using the center spacer liner.

There's a George Schrade PRESTO rebuild HERE .. that shows the required disassembly process. I need to finish that one !!

There's a MIKOV kit build HERE that I & another member both did .. has some good info.

.

That should get you started. Good luck with all. If you run into any issues .. pics go a long way in helping provide useful feedback.

.

Enjoy

D ale

Terry Koch said:

I'm home now . The length is 4 1/8". 3 1/8" length on the blade. What needs to be milled during the conversion?

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on October 9, 2016 at 4:52

Specifically

.

The heads of the pins need to be drilled out to facilitate being driven out without damage to the rest of the knife.

The X-Y table of a mill makes that easier. This step can be performed on a drill press ..just.. proper alignment will require more effort.

.

Enjoy

D ale

Terry Koch said:

 What needs to be milled during the conversion?

Permalink Reply by Terry Koch on October 9, 2016 at 7:19

Morning Dale,

I'm retired now but throughout my career  I worked as a repair/maintenance tech for several manufacturing companies. My skill sets include electronics, electrical, hydraulic, and pnuematic power, welding, and machining. I have a shop with various lathes, mills and saws, welders, and a plasma cutter. Since retiring in August, I've taken up Blacksmithing and am aspiring to become a blade smith. I also enjoy shooting, hunting, fishing, and camping (if you can call sleeping in a 36' 5th wheel trailer camping!). Whew, that's a lot of interests! It's a wonder I've any extra time. Actually, I move very slowly and deliberately. I've been planning my entire life.

Thank you for your help. I look forward to reading your how to posts. 

Have a great day

Terry
D ale said:

Terrry

For this conversion .. a mill's not required !!

It would make some things easier ..but.. a drill press will more than suffice. A pin vise will even do for the drilling of the scales.

Might I inquire .. what did you ..OR.. do you do for a living ???  Just trying to get a feel for your level of experience or skill set when it comes to mechanical aptitude.

I did a scale replacement of a factory pinned knife HERE .. lots of pics in the comments section .. it lays out most of the steps involved in this conversion. The conversion to a single blade jack will require complete dis-assembly ..(unlike what's pictured in the referenced discussion).. however, the required steps are all there.

I did a scale replacement on a knife that used all threaded fasteners HERE .. might be worth the read .. the hole transfer process .. perhaps.

I did a friction folder HERE .. the pinning process is pertinent as is the use of the center liner of your project in the layout process for your new scales

I did an SS 3.0 kit HERE .. the hole transfer process is the same as you'll implement in the conversion of your knife .. using the center spacer liner.

There's a George Schrade PRESTO rebuild HERE .. that shows the required disassembly process. I need to finish that one !!

There's a MIKOV kit build HERE that I & another member both did .. has some good info.

.

That should get you started. Good luck with all. If you run into any issues .. pics go a long way in helping provide useful feedback.

.

Enjoy

D ale

Terry Koch said:

I'm home now . The length is 4 1/8". 3 1/8" length on the blade. What needs to be milled during the conversion?

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on October 9, 2016 at 8:33

Terry,

.

You'll have no problem with this then

With that experience .. you might even get away with skipping the suggested cheapo rebuild.

However .. experience is the best teacher ..&.. I'll leave that one up to you.

It's obvious ... you are mechanically inclined.

The presence of a mill & the knowledge to use it will greatly simplify this project.

.

What you'll have when you're done is one fine user .. one very fine user.

When it comes to supplies .. IF you're even lacking anything .. I can at least recommend some known good sources.

.

I'm genuinely excited to see your result. It will be well worth the effort involved !!!

.

Let me guess .. you reload too !?!

.

Enjoy

D ale

Terry Koch said:

Morning Dale,

I'm retired now but throughout my career  I worked as a repair/maintenance tech for several manufacturing companies. My skill sets include electronics, electrical, hydraulic, and pnuematic power, welding, and machining. I have a shop with various lathes, mills and saws, welders, and a plasma cutter. Since retiring in August, I've taken up Blacksmithing and am aspiring to become a blade smith. I also enjoy shooting, hunting, fishing, and camping (if you can call sleeping in a 36' 5th wheel trailer camping!). Whew, that's a lot of interests! It's a wonder I've any extra time. Actually, I move very slowly and deliberately. I've been planning my entire life.

Permalink Reply by Terry Koch on October 9, 2016 at 12:49

Why yes, I do reload. More bang for the buck. Started in the 6th grade with a Lee Loader for 16 guage. Still had the loader 50 years later when I gave to a friend at work. I also do gun smithing as a related hobby. 

Read your links, thank you, don't feel so intimidated now. I've also got a copy of "The Complete book of Pocketknife Repair". I started making a steady rest as shown in the book several years ago. Need to get back to that project soon. I'm excited about this knife. 

Thanks again,

Terry

D ale said:

Terry,

.

You'll have no problem with this then

With that experience .. you might even get away with skipping the suggested cheapo rebuild.

However .. experience is the best teacher ..&.. I'll leave that one up to you.

It's obvious ... you are mechanically inclined.

The presence of a mill & the knowledge to use it will greatly simplify this project.

.

What you'll have when you're done is one fine user .. one very fine user.

When it comes to supplies .. IF you're even lacking anything .. I can at least recommend some known good sources.

.

I'm genuinely excited to see your result. It will be well worth the effort involved !!!

.

Let me guess .. you reload too !?!

.

Enjoy

D ale

Terry Koch said:

Morning Dale,

I'm retired now but throughout my career  I worked as a repair/maintenance tech for several manufacturing companies. My skill sets include electronics, electrical, hydraulic, and pnuematic power, welding, and machining. I have a shop with various lathes, mills and saws, welders, and a plasma cutter. Since retiring in August, I've taken up Blacksmithing and am aspiring to become a blade smith. I also enjoy shooting, hunting, fishing, and camping (if you can call sleeping in a 36' 5th wheel trailer camping!). Whew, that's a lot of interests! It's a wonder I've any extra time. Actually, I move very slowly and deliberately. I've been planning my entire life.

• ‹ Previous
• 1
• 2
• 3
• Next ›
• Page